kbalch

Well Known Member
I've just ordered an IO-360-A1B6 from Aerosport Power and it occurred to me that I'd better check on the snorkel fit around the B&C starter. Does that combination fit well or are guys using the SkyTec unit? I still have plenty of time to switch starters if necessary.
 
I've just ordered an IO-360-A1B6 from Aerosport Power and it occurred to me that I'd better check on the snorkel fit around the B&C starter. Does that combination fit well or are guys using the SkyTec unit? I still have plenty of time to switch starters if necessary.
My experience with RV7a horizontal induction was the B&C will not fit without significant snorkel modification. I opted to switch horses and go with skytec NL model which is more robust than the lightweight skytecs.
 
My experience with RV7a horizontal induction was the B&C will not fit without significant snorkel modification. I opted to switch horses and go with skytec NL model which is more robust than the lightweight skytecs.
I did the same for my IO360 M1B in my 8 since the B&C wouldn't fit.
 
OK, guys, thanks. Sounds like the SkyTec NL is the way to go.

While we’re at it, is the B&C alternator worth doing vs. the Plane Power unit even though it requires an external regulator?

One more question since I’m on a roll: does the -8’s firewall have room for a remote oil filter? I didn’t have one on my first -8, but it’s been so long that I don’t have a clear memory of the firewall forward real estate beyond it being fairly tight.
 
B&C has a 60amp alternator with built in regulator.

I have seen an 8 with a remote filter on the firewall. It is doable. It just depends how you lay everything out...ie battery on the FW or in the back, oil cooler on the FW, mtr mt or baffle etc.
 
B&C has a 60amp alternator with built in regulator.

I have seen an 8 with a remote filter on the firewall. It is doable. It just depends how you lay everything out...ie battery on the FW or in the back, oil cooler on the FW, mtr mt or baffle etc.
Got it. I was planning on battery in the back and oil cooler on the baffle, just like last time. The w&b turned out so well back then that I’m really just trying to duplicate its performance and feel.
 
Got it. I was planning on battery in the back and oil cooler on the baffle, just like last time. The w&b turned out so well back then that I’m really just trying to duplicate its performance and feel.
I seem to remember someone on here discussing a new snorkel design that Vans was working on, (presented at Oshkosh or something?) that would not only clear the starter but give more HP as well. Not sure how old your kit is but it may be worth an email to vans to find out which snorkel you have.

I was looking to redo my baffle ramp at the time and spent a bunch of time searching on here.
 
IO360M1B in my 7A. Problem with the Frankensnorkel wasn't starter clearance. It was 1/2 too long. Maybe they fixed it. Basically the filter end was 1/2" outboard of the baffle. There's a method to fix, but it has to be cut.
 
I've just ordered an IO-360-A1B6 from Aerosport Power and it occurred to me that I'd better check on the snorkel fit around the B&C starter. Does that combination fit well or are guys using the SkyTec unit? I still have plenty of time to switch starters if necessary.
It does need a small relief but it does not impact the performance; I get the same MP and numbers before and after modifying mine to accommodate the larger diameter body.
 

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I've just ordered an IO-360-A1B6 from Aerosport Power and it occurred to me that I'd better check on the snorkel fit around the B&C starter. Does that combination fit well or are guys using the SkyTec unit? I still have plenty of time to switch starters if necessary.
I have the -A1B6 motor too and I recently had to replace my starter and alternator. I ordered the B&C and there was no way the snorkel would fit without some decent glass work. I elected to send it back and get the Skytech instead rather than go through the mod process. B&C was great about the return, Btw.

I also did go with the B&C alternator with the internal regulator. The 60 amp version is the SF-601. I didn't want to mess with the hassle of installing the external regulator stuff.

As far as the oil filter - I've got tons of room between the spin off filter and the firewall. Super easy to get on and off. I use the Tempest filter with the big nut on the end that makes is easy to break free. Unless your mount is different - I don't think a remote filter is necessary.
1784617249359.jpeg
Looking straight down from the top.
 
I have the -A1B6 motor too and I recently had to replace my starter and alternator. I ordered the B&C and there was no way the snorkel would fit without some decent glass work. I elected to send it back and get the Skytech instead rather than go through the mod process. B&C was great about the return, Btw.

I also did go with the B&C alternator with the internal regulator. The 60 amp version is the SF-601. I didn't want to mess with the hassle of installing the external regulator stuff.

As far as the oil filter - I've got tons of room between the spin off filter and the firewall. Super easy to get on and off. I use the Tempest filter with the big nut on the end that makes is easy to break free. Unless your mount is different - I don't think a remote filter is necessary.
View attachment 123836
Looking straight down from the top.
Great info; thanks!

I’ve made the same calls on the starter, alternator, and oil filter mount. The only difference is that I wound up opting for a Barrett -A1A instead of the -A1B6 to save over $20K (over $30K from the Aerosport Power price!). Those counterweighted cranks have gotten really pricey along with everything else.