FORANE

FORANE

Well Known Member
We have a slider 9A which is difficult to open the first inch or so. Once the slider starts to open, it opens quite easily. I tug on it latch and can open it after 1-2 tugs, but my petite wife who will be flying the plane cannot open it from the outside.
I believe the reason for this difficulty is getting the plastic center rear slide block which connects to the channel to start sliding up the channel.
I have applied some silicone spray to the channel / block which seems to have helped some.

So, have others had this same difficulty and what has been done to help?
 
Not sure about the -9, but in the -8, the rear of the canopy has to come up just a bit before it goes back. To make this happen easily, you can add a little handle - just a piece of angle about an inch or two long and pop riveted to the rear of the skirt will do it - that will allow you to "lift" the back as you pull back on the handle. Once your muscles learn the trick, it is easy.
 
Ironflight said:
Not sure about the -9, but in the -8, the rear of the canopy has to come up just a bit before it goes back. To make this happen easily, you can add a little handle - just a piece of angle about an inch or two long and pop riveted to the rear of the skirt will do it - that will allow you to "lift" the back as you pull back on the handle. Once your muscles learn the trick, it is easy.
Click to expand...

Hey Paul

Yes, exactly, the rear has to come up a bit before it slides back. By skirt you mean the side down low toward the rear or midline on top behind the plexiglass?
Thanks for the reply.
 
something like this:
q2qk.jpg


can be a little piece of angle or whatever you want.

when opening from inside, just put your hand back and push up a little on the center tube if it doesn't pop up.
 
Sorry, couldn't find a pic. I used scrap .032 3/4X3/4 angle and match drilled two holes at the rear of the canopy skirt/canopy square tubing rivet line. I filed it to a shape I liked and blind riveted it on top of the skirt into the canopy frame square tubing. Works well, a little lift from the skirt handle paired with a canopy latch tug gets things moving.
 
Another factor can be how tightly the lower aft pins fit the holes in the UHMW blocks.
If overly tight the holes can be reamed slightly, and/or a little bit of grease can be used on the pins.
 
FORANE said:
Hey Paul

Yes, exactly, the rear has to come up a bit before it slides back. By skirt you mean the side down low toward the rear or midline on top behind the plexiglass?
Thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...

Low works for me - in the rear corner - that way I can stand on the ground on the pilot side and pull up while pulling back on the latch handle. Now that is on an -8, which is a lot narrower - so find the geometry that works for you.
 
If you look at the weekend front page you can see the lift piece on N686RV low on the back of the slider.
 
not uncommon .....for me anyway

Steve, I had the same exact problem last year on my -9a, I'm sure other sliders are similar.
Pretty darn important that passengers understand the process, and how to open the slider from inside and out, in case of emergency.

I think on mine, the front of the canopy was actually wedging under the windshield, and at one time, the UMHF tape that was between the skirt and the rear turtle deck slid forward in the hot weather, leaving a nice band of adhesive, which effectively glued the canopy shut!!!
It was nearly impossible to remove the old tape, with the canopy ON, so I just greased it up with vaseline, which of course, eventually got pretty dirty, so I finally got in the with solvent & removed the gunk.
My point, there can be a lot of different place it binds, depending on the temperature etc.
I find if I stand with one foot on the step, and other on the wing, I can lean on the rear deck with my arm, and kind of use leverage to help lift up on the handle. ( I have a small u-shaped drawer pull that can be grabbed even with gloves on). No doubt the addition of a lift point on the lower skirt would help to rock & ease any wedging problem.
I must sit inside and have a good look at the geometry of the pins & blocks, that may be another sticking point on mine.
thanks!
 
It also helps to wax the initial ramp area of the rear sliding track to help the poly block slide uphill for that first inch or so. Regular car wax is good.
 
ok
I believe we will install a small eye bolt or similar at the top rear midline of the canopy.
Thanks for the ideas.
 
A little boelube on the pins that fit into the nylon blocks in the aft corners helped tremendously for me.
 
All the PAX have to read the does not meet federal safety standards right in front of them.
What they don't read is how to get out.
My 9A needs a whack.... back in the rear of the slider.... to begin moving.
I am not happy with that, but so far, have not found a solution.
PAX briefing includes where to WHACK.... Also have a Harbor Freight small ($2.98) pipe wrench in the side pocket. Have used it to power a panel punch. Have not used it yet to crack the canopy.
 
Cheap handles can be found a Lowe's or Home Depot. Installed with two #8 stainless screws through the dorsal bar. If you go this route, buy a few of the handles for later on. They are cheap enough and the style you pick may be discontinued.

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