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Bushcaddy

Well Known Member
I have my magnetos out for the carbon brush replacement. After reading up on that I figured I would have to retime them so I looked into that. One of the guides I found stated "be careful when removing or reinstalling the magnetos because the rubber isolators may fall off into the accessory case". I had already removed the magnetos :( and can find no evidence of rubber isolators on them. I can't see inside the holes on the accessory case because I have just enough room to remove the magnetos. Slick publication L-1363 makes no mention of these isolators. The Lycoming overhaul manual shows a diagram (4.1) of some "rubber cushions" on a mag that looks nothing like my slick 4370 or 4381. So my question is: are these isolators on slick mags? If I don't see them on my removed mags are they likely inside the accessory case somewhere? I can't imagine that something that would fall off so easily would be in such a position:mad:
 
I'm no expert, but I've installed 2 different sets of Slicks on airplanes. I have never seen anything like you are describing.
 
Nah... it's time to...

airguy said:
Time for an inspection mirror and a flashlight...
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..get a Parts Catalog for the engine.

My Lycoming O-360 parts catalog for the Wide Deck "A" series only shows the cushions on the right magneto for the -A4A and -A4J engines.

The engines that use the cushions also have an "Adapter Assembly" for the right magneto, which appears to look like the spacer for an impulse coupler. However, the cushions appear on the non-impulse magneto.

All of the other "A" dash numbers should have no cushions to drop...:)

ABOVE IS FOR THE RV GUYS....

I forgot Don has a O-235...:)

None of the dash numbers appear to use drive cushions...
 
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OK...I'm off the ledge now

You guys are the best. Thanks for helping me keep my lunch down:D

Gil, you have a good memory...O-235 L2C it is.

BTW I did try the inspection mirror...couldn't quite get the angle due to the closeness to the firewall...would have taken a borescope!!
 
Bushcaddy said:
You guys are the best. Thanks for helping me keep my lunch down:D

Gil, you have a good memory...O-235 L2C it is.

BTW I did try the inspection mirror...couldn't quite get the angle due to the closeness to the firewall...would have taken a borescope!!
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Better pull the pan off just in case! :eek:

Kidding! :p


;)
 
Is Re-timing Necessary??

Bushcaddy said:
I have my magnetos out for the carbon brush replacement. After reading up on that I figured I would have to retime them so I looked into that.
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How did this turn out for you? Did you have to re-set the timing of the mag with the timing pin and also time the mag to the engine upon reinstallation?
 
If you follow the tech data, internal re-timing is a really simple using the specified tool. I'm not sure I'd attempt to re-assemble without re-timing as you never know if something moved internally.
 
Isolators are used in 6 cylinder models (and two fairly rare 4 cyl config's as noted earlier)...

Not sure I understand the timing question...mags have two "timings", internal and external. The internal timing sets the point gap (adjustable) and distributor-cam relationship (fixed by gears in proper relationship). External timing is set by correct mag gear/chrank relationship and small rotation of mag on mounting ring to fine tune the firing point correctly.

For Slicks, the internal/external gear setting is done by the small pin, just be sure to remember to remove the pin before moving the prop for setting the final timing with a mag timer (buzz box).

The internal timing is addressed in the Slick manual and really is simple with the timing tools (pin and small inexpensive steel plate tool that holds the main rotor is place while setting the internal points with the buzz box). Although, my Tech Counselor friend and expert engine builder, Seth Hancock, often does both internal and external timing without the Slick tools.
 
Timing Tools

deene said:
For Slicks, the internal/external gear setting is done by the small pin, just be sure to remember to remove the pin before moving the prop for setting the final timing with a mag timer (buzz box).
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Where can I buy the pin and plate? I have the 'buzz box'...
 
You might call Unison and they'd probably send you one for free. A couple years ago at OSH they were giving them away at their booth. You want the timing pin and e-gap tool.
 
Ok. Apparently Unison sold their mag product line to Champion - and wouldn't even discuss the mag with me (legal reasons). Speaking with Champion you have to go through one of their distributors to buy one.

Additionally, it seems nobody and their brother stocks these items anymore. Falconcrest said it had been since 2004 since anyone ordered one.

That said: any ideas where I can get a timing pin? Too bad Superior didn't give us one when we built our engines :)
 
Gsuit said:
Ok. Apparently Unison sold their mag product line to Champion - and wouldn't even discuss the mag with me (legal reasons). Speaking with Champion you have to go through one of their distributors to buy one.

Additionally, it seems nobody and their brother stocks these items anymore. Falconcrest said it had been since 2004 since anyone ordered one.

That said: any ideas where I can get a timing pin? Too bad Superior didn't give us one when we built our engines :)
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Ask your local A&P for one, he probably has a boxful of them--they are supplied with each new mag.
 
What a shame - at the OSH before this year Unison was handing out the pins.... I spoke to Champion and they seemed still very eager to support their new product. They told me that they still have the Piston Support line and Joe still answers the phone (he's awesome - spent a bunch of time explaining Slicks to me).

Another approach would be to send your mags out. I just had my 1200 hour Slicks rebuilt for very small $$ and a 1 day turn at "Magneto ER" in Searcy AR. Great guy, super knowledgable. I've decided that I'm going to just stick with him from now on and not bother opening up mags.

Good luck!
 
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