N941WR

N941WR

Legacy Member
Sitting in my basement shop is a 10" SkyView, calling to me to stuff it in my panel ASAP.

Since the plane just got back in the air, I'm working through much of installation issues at home before ripping into the plane (again).

The new panel blank is ready for cutting, I'm still not sure how I'm going to route the pitot and AoA lines from under my seat to the tail section yet but I have a few ideas that I'm working through.

When I built my plane, I used pull rivets to secure the floor and baggage compartment, per the plans, and am going to try and avoid drilling them up. More on this later.

I've searching both the VAF and Dynon forums for suggestions and I think I have figured out how I'm going to mount the dual ADAHRS units.

Here is a picture of the shelf which holds the current D100 magnetometer. It is tilted, as prescribed in the manual, to match the angle of the instrument panel.

That unit will be removed and I'm thinking of bolting the ADAHARS units to the bottom of that shelf using plated brass standoffs and a doubler plate, as seen in this picture:
SkyView%20ADHARS%20mounting.JPG

The stack will have to be shimmed so they are level in flight. I'm trying to make this retrofit fairly easy and getting back there with a rivet squeezer is a challange with all the skins already riveted in place.

Thoughts, opinions, and suggestions are more than welcome (and solicited).
 
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floor removal

When I built my plane, I used pull rivets to secure the floor and baggage compartment, per the plans, and am going to try and avoid drilling them up. More on this later.
Click to expand...

Hey Bill, I also installed my baggage compartment floor per plans with the pull rivets and was dreading the removal process to repair my cracked passenger side step (RV-6A). But I ordered one of the blind rivet removal tools from Avery's which eliminated the problem of the pull rivets spinning with the drill and made the floor removal really a pretty quick and easy job with no hole damage done and easy re-install.

So if you do decide running things under the floor is preferable, removing the floor isn't so bad with the right tools. Certainly easier than that rebuild job you just completed!
 
Although I had routed some conduit on the right side, I needed to run additional wiring on the left. Behind the pilot seat, I used a Malco router with a drill to cut two "halves" of four inch holes, a few inches apart...and a die grinder betweeen the holes. Looks like a racetrack shape. These routers easily cut holes with little mess. I then installed nut plates, and a larger access cover.

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

L.Adamson
 
Bill,

Drill up the floor. It's not a big deal. If a pop rivet spins use and AWL to stop it's rotation while you continue to drill. While you're under there lay down some extra conduit for future expansion (flux capacitor, plasma vision, phase accelerators, etc.)
 
Hey Bill, if I understand what you are thinking on the actual mounting of the ADAHRS, you are going to hang that "double stack" from the four bolts underneath that shlf...right? To me, that seems a bit of a pendulum - might have a tendency to move around a bit, or pick up some vibrational modes that could seriously affect the attitude solution. It's something that you should at least think about and see if it seems rigid enough to you.

Paul
 
Paul, you are correct. We have had a few installs where the AHRS modules are on a shelf that is not strong enough vertically, and they bounce around. This actually doesn't cause an issue with the attitude, since vertical motion isn't shown on the horizon anywhere, but what it did cause issues with was the autopilot since this vertical shaking triggers the G-limiter in the autopilot and it tries to dive or climb all the time to unload the false G reading. A simple stiffening of the structure cured this.

So just a anecdote to make sure your AHRS installs are on a solid platform.
 
N941WR said:
I'm still not sure how I'm going to route the pitot and AoA lines from under my seat to the tail section yet but I have a few ideas that I'm working through.
Click to expand...
Bill-
You could run your AOA/pitot lines from the wing root then immediately up the pilot side center section spar uprights under the cap. Assuming(?) you already have eyeball or other lights in the cap that you can temporarily pop out, it would be easy to direct the lines to make the turn aft and run under the aft canopy deck (a la the static line) back beyond the baggage bulkhead. I have my pitot/AOA lines running this way except they turn immediately forward to the panel after going up under the spar upright cap. Just another option if the under-the-seat idea doesn't work for you.
 
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Paul & Dynon Support,

That's what I was concerned about as well with hanging them from that bracket. I could run a single piece of AA across the bulkhead and add a piece of aluminum between the two units with a flange to rivet to the AA. That should stop any pendulum motion.
Steve,

I was thinking of using the current static line routing for the pitot but I still need to get the AoA line back there.

When I built the plane, I never thought that I would need to put any other lines in the tail cone, thus the hole under the roll bar (I have a tip-up) is only large enough for one line and you can’t really get up there to enlarge it.

However, I am open to any and all suggestions.
 
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Bill,

I would just bite the bullet and drill the floor panels out. I decided later to install some conduit for my pitot/AOA and high voltage strobe lines, after I had installed the floor and was dreading it. It wasn't hard, just took some time. Also layed down some sound proofing while it was open.

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cln1owner said:
Bill,

I would just bite the bullet and drill the floor panels out...
Click to expand...

I know, I know, and just maybe, I'll find the missing cleco pliers while I'm at it.

Your install looks nice and is similar to what I was thinking about doing, other than your shelf. With those skins in place, it is difficult to squeeze or drive the rivets up close to the skins.
 
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