R

ron sterba

Well Known Member
My Probe wires are hooked up to 25 pin harness and connected to the EMS. Only wires left to be hooked up are fuel and oil pressure, oil temp,fuel flow (Red Cube). Did you use shrink wrap tubing on the two/three wires to each sensor or just a twist and connect and route thru firewall? Did you use the same connector types as you used on the probe connectors. I have the red fire hose pass thru by Safe-air on the upper left side of the firewall.

Iam getting closer guys!!
Open to any pictures or noteables about routing the wires in small corrugated tubing along engine mount.?

Thanks
Ron in Oregon RV9A N421HJ
 
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Connection to oil press, fuel press, oil temp and fuel flow.

I just did this about a month ago. My Dynon EMS module was mounted inside the airplane on the instrument subpanel such that the wires were long enough to reach the oil pressure, fuel pressure, fuel flow and oil temp sensor.

The fuel and oil pressure sensors are mounted per the fire wall forward plans from Van's on the fire wall. the oil temp sensor is screwed into an opening on the rear of the engine.

My Fuel flow sensor is mounted forward in the tunnel right after the pump and filter.

For all of them I bought bare butt splice connectors which I crimped and then soldered. then I used heat shrink tube to insulate the connections. I bought the butt splice connectors without the plastic insulator at a local electronics store.

It was easy to do and left a clean, professional appearance.

Good luck
 
Thanks Alan, I was looking at along those lines. Had another gentleman (Brian) suggested a couple of good mind sets as far as vibration goes in that engine compartment area. I used male/female spade connectors and used his suggestion of encapsulating the slice with heat shrink tubing to keep the dirt and oil out and securing the slice from vibrations. Great advice! Local electronics store has shrink wrap tubing for $1.50 to $3 for four foot lengths. Ok guys Iam on my way. Thanks Alan, comments always appreciated!
 
Ron,
Likewise, my EMS is located on the right side forward of the subpanel, the oil press, oil temp lines were fine. If I remember correctly you do have to split the 5 volt wire off a couple of times like to oil pressure and red cube which I mounted under the mixture bracket and it works perfect. Some folks mount the red cube to the firewall what ever suits you. Make sure you use as many of the black common lines that you can. The cyl temp and EGT probe wires I ran down the engine mounts on the right and across the top mount to get down the left side. I used the terminals supplied and heat shrunk them then wrapped the entire bundle with electrical tape and secured it to the engine mounts. Leave a slight amount of slack on any wires that go from the engine and are fastened to the firewall or engine mount. The engine does move in the mounts. Some folks use adel clamps every where to support their wires. A couple of mechanics suggested keeping the probe wires separated from the spark plug leads as not to introduce noise in the system
I took rubber tubing and used tie wraps to make a stand off from the spark plug wires. Most mechanics are familiar with this .

You are getting close good luck..use the Dynon install manul for the set up of the EMS and SkyView. After I got it all up and working I would dedicate about an half hour or more a couple times a week just to get use to using the equipment and be able to go between the different pages and setup pages.

It helped during the phase one as I could concentrate on the flight test and not the electronics,
Jack
 
Thanks Jack, All so new to me. 42 years of flying and all I had to do was note a problem in the aircraft log and it got fixed! You and Several of you other builders have stepped up and gave me WHAT to DO and WHY! I like the WHYs, gives me variables that I didn't know about. Its all making good sense now. This was torture! this wiring thing but Im going thru it OK. Jack thanks for sharing! I noted several items you said so I'll use tomorrow. Always much appreciated.

NOW FOR YOU NEWBIES TAKE NOTES ON WHAT THESE BUILDERS HAVE SHARED. DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK OR YOUR PROJECT MAY NOT GET DONE!

I HAVE LEARNED i DON'T LIKE THE biggie PINK SPADE CONNECTORS OF DYNONS CHT AND EGT PROBE WIRES. Heres WHY! I learned this from Brian. Use shrink wrap tubing on your crimp connectors,but be sure to use a bullet connector crimped on and then followed by a heat shrink tubing that covers and EXTENDS pass where the wire comes out of the connector,maybe a half inch or so. TWO THINGS that are important here! #1 you have just secured your fitting of the connector and you have sealed the end of the connector to keep dirt and oil from running down into your bullet connector. My main reason for NOT liking the BIG PINKS is the shrink wrap tubing is only a 2:1 shrink so I have tiny little air gaps in the heat shrink tubing as it extends over the wire. Ideally I would like a complete tight seal! There are variables on connectors for these probes wire, you may have a preference maybe a small spade connector as long as you can get a total seal by the heat shrink tubing. I welcome others to add their TWO cents worth,except those from Canada. Canada isn't making pennies anymore so I guess its a nickles worth! aeh! I'm open for ALL comments. I'm still learning! and a lot to go. It WILL fly this year!

Ron in Oregon RV9A N421HJ
 
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I STAND corrected on words.I used in the post above.

As a NEWBIE I have to be accurate in my description of material being used.. This is so FUNNY! A friend of mine said your NOT wrapping vegetables, where do you get use SHRINK WRAP on wires, "you are NOT cooking" ^%^%$$%^&----:):-0 soooo i WENT IN AND CORRECTED MY POST!! THANK you my friend!!! Still LAFFING! even auto correct didn't like it, should be STILL LAUGHING!!!

Today is not my day! My friend started by saying that there was a new Tomato plant variety out and it tastes like FRIED CHICKEN! and with a straight face I said I'll have to go to the saturday market and ask for it,and still with my straight face he says it tastes better when you fry them in PEANUT OIL! I said boy those sound like a GREAT variety! Next sound I heard from him was a finishing reel sound! God he got me hook line and sinker!!! Today is not my day to go to the HANGAR! Cosmetically I don't think my wings need any seat cushions mounted on them!

I use to be "RON IN OREGON" but not sure what planet I'm on NOW!! I'l check back in 24 hours!

SO the CORRECT WORD IS, ( " heat shrink tubing " )
 
Ron, a little trick,
Seal all the ends of the terminals openings where the wire comes out of the crimped terminal with Red RTV, it keeps the wire from vibrating and then heat shrink the connections with two sizes of hear shrink
One that goes over the crimp and wire and the a larger one over the union between the two fittings. This increases the diameter of the wire shrink to allow the larger to shrink tight on the smaller one covering the wire,if you can not work it out with two different sizes heat shrink at least you'll know the connection is water tight .
Another nice thing,
Take a brothers label maker and make name tags for your wires close to the terminal connections,
Such as oil press +, CHT 1, .

Note on the Dynon brown CHT and EGT dual wires you can slide their labels up so you can shorten the wire and still have the label on the brown lead from the EMS.

Water and vibration are two of the worst offenders over time to your connections in the engine compartment. If you want to get real fancy you can use different color RTV to match the wires ;)

Jack
 
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Thanks Jack. See what you mean on the double up I did one like that and thought it was pretty sturdy. Like the idea of the RTV in the ends. I think it will work well as a sealer. I ran out of the one size larger heat shrink tubing,will get more tomorrow. your right, its a pretty firm connection point after two layers.. I'll get to do the other sensors wires too!.Glad I got into this post early on.Learned alot. I did use a clear heat shrink tubing with a label under the clear and it came out pretty nice on the CHT & EXT leads.

Jack how did you take your nav lights ( 3 leads ) back to your fuse for that circuit? as well as the (LED) strobes ( 3 leads, both wing tips and rudder) again back to the fuse. I have molex connectors here at the bench, could use them by daisy chaining on the feed wire to each of 3 positions on the molex. Do they make a plug/connector to feed all 3 leads?

Thanks
Ron almost back to Oregon! RV9A
 
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Ron, I used AveoLED's in that have the Nav/Strobe combined. Therefore the I grounded each unit to the last rib where I polished a spot and put an aluminum bolt then put Put on an anti corrosive paste on the grounding post. Similar situation for the tail strobe. So each unit only had two wires running to the fuselage.
I used a 6 wire molex connector as I ran a couple extra wires in each conduit in the wing just in case I wanted something out there in the future. Again sealed that Molex fitting and tie wrapped it to a fiberglassed internal support that I put in each wing tip to stiffen the wing tip.
My conduit run in the wing is the corrugated plastic that I made tabs at every other rib to support the corrugated conduit. I did not drill holes in my ribs except for the Pitot lines and AOA lines from SAFE-Air

The landing lights I have draw the most power on the plane and I will be changing them out to LED's but again the ground from each of the 2 projector halogen bulbs is connected to the same ground post at the wing rib. 2 bulbs in each wing. No now were up to 4 wires in the Molex connector. Plus the 2 extra wires so that is the reason for the 6 wires and I did use the largest 6 wire Molex connector I could fine at Fry's electric. And I eliminated the ground runs and weight. I did twist my wires in pairs to again to eliminate a noise problem. A drill works great for this.

I left the wires long where I ran them into the fuselage because I had to combine the LED 12 volts together and the blue triggering wires together. Again a couple of hand shake terminals with heat shrink tubing. The hand shake terminals are a bit more stout than the pink or blue push on spade terminals.

If you need pictures send me an email where I can send you photo's

Jack
[email protected]
 
Hi Jack I also have the Aveo nav lights too. I had Stein Air send me twisted 3 pair 16 gauge for the nav and twisted 16 guage two pair for the landing/taxi lights. As we get into a new age of electronics I was advised to run a ground wire due to the field around ground plane of the aircraft and WILL ADD interference maybe not on a large degree but a annoying degree. So I just went with the extra wire at this point. I to will go with the LED land/taxi at some point.

On the molex connector you just daisy chained to feed the + to the nav & strobes?

Loved to see the handshake connectors. never heard of them. Panel pictures too if there easily available. Sounds like you have a beautiful ship!!

Thanks Jack

Ron in Oregon RV9A
 
Thanks Jack, Used a bunch of the corrugated tubing down the wing ribs. Pretty easy for the wires to slide thru. Installed the terminal strip of 6 screws for the distribution of the 5+volts to the sensors,Used ring wire connectors of that terminal block to feed the sensors then used bullet connectors for the splices and electrolyte grease at the sensor unit wires.

What do the handshake connectors look like?

Take care Jack,

Ron in Oregon
 
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