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prkaye

Well Known Member
I want to have a removeable disconnect in the wires from my flap motor. There are only two wires so I want soemthing very simple. Here are the options I'm considering, and questions about each:

1) ring terminals on both segments, screw and nut through ring terminals to connect wires. I've never seen this done, is this bad practice?

2) knife-splices. I've never seen or used these, only read about them. Are they suitably secure?

3) Do they make a "male" faston-style wire terminal that would fit in the standard faston terminals (the "femal" kind I use to plug into the tabs on all my terminal blocks, fuseblocks etc) ? I haven't found anything like this on Spruce or B&C.

Thanks!

Phil
 
prkaye said:
2) knife-splices. I've never seen or used these, only read about them. Are they suitably secure?
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I have used knife splices before, they are very secure. Not to mention simple and light. Just make sure you insulate them well, I use shrink tubing. Ever need access, just cut away the shrink tubing.

Good luck.
 
They do make "male" fast-ons, I have used them. Just cover them with heat shrink (obviously)

A better solution in my opinion is to use molex connectors. I have them in several places on my -8A and they can be connected and disconnected in a second. It requires that you have an open barrel crimper.

You can get both at steinair.com.
 
prkaye said:
3) Do they make a "male" faston-style wire terminal that would fit in the standard faston terminals

Thanks!

Phil
Click to expand...

Yes, they exist. I have bought them at an auto parts store. And, they have an insulation boot that will cover the assembly, so no need for additional insulation.

I would like to recommend one thing for you. If you do this, use one female and one male on the motor, not two of the same. This will ensure correct polarity when you put it back together.

Better still, get a polarized plug setup like these or the molex suggested above.

Good luck.
 
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Either knife splices or a 2-pronged Molex connector will work. You can even solder the wires together and cover them with heat shrink. If you need to remove, you can strip the heat shrink and un-solder.
 
This probably deserves another thread but, How can I determine if my electrical connection are appropriate quality to use on a airplane?
 
sonny junell said:
This probably deserves another thread but, How can I determine if my electrical connection are appropriate quality to use on a airplane?
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Aviation quality crimp connectors/splices will have a double crimp area. One for the stripped wire, and one for the insulation sleeve. What you get at the auto-parts store will usually have only the crimping area for the bare wire. These connectors are usually "see-through" too. Will come in blue or red/pink for most of the wiring we do.

Besides internet sites that sell aviation type electrical fittings; I've also found some at marine stores such as West Marine and electronic warehouses, and my local FBO. Have never seen any at Radio Shack.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
A few other options

One of the problems with the knife type connectors and Faston connectors is insulating them. You can use short segments of shrink tube, slide over the connector, and tie wrap it. THis works better with the knife connectors because they are sort of round.

But, another option to consider is a Molex two-pin plug and socket. They work fine, quick to install, can get them at Frys.

I used them on my stick wiring and my flap motor.
 
Dont do anything

How about not putting any connector in. Leave some slack in the wire where you might put a connector in the future. If you ever need to remove the motor, cut the wires then crimp on the connectors at that time. You may never ever need them and if you do then do it at that time.
 
Terminal Town

Terminal Town sells a version of insulated Faston terminals that might work also. One side is female push on, the other side is male push on. I think they can be plugged into each other, sort of like the Faston version of the knife splice. Midway down the page at the link below.

http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page9.html
 
Deans Ultra

Use a Deans Ultra. Perfect for this application. I used the following connectors from RC stuff on my plane. The Deans are all are gold plated pin connectors designed to carry the appropriate amperage. All connectors were secured with heat shrink after final assembly.

1) Elevator trim servo wiring. 3 pin Deans connector for the control wires and a 2 pin Deans for the power wires. The two pin also for reversing if necessary.

2) Flap motor- Deans Ultra connector

3) Flap position sensor- Futaba servo connector

4) AFP fuel pump power- Deans Ultra

5) AFS fuel transducer wires- Futaba servo connector

6) EL lighting strip- Deans Ultra.
 
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