BlackRV7

BlackRV7

Well Known Member
After drilling, deburring, tapping, countersink, etc., etc., my initial windscreen and Sikaflex bonding the windscreen on my rebuild, I give (remember, you get what you pay for) sika a big thumbs up. I will never, ever put another drill bit to a canopy. It took me less than an hour and a half from the time I had my windscreen fitted to the time I was finished bonding, with everything cleaned up and put away. That included taping, roughing up the windscreen and roll bar,cleaning, priming and bonding. I left the clamps on for two days. As the days passed, the sika continued to set up and now after about two weeks, I can't see the windscreen coming off without totally destroying the windscreen. I've seen the light, I'm a convert:rolleyes:

Besides the ease of install, you can see in the below picture, I was able to make a nice looking fillet, much better than I had on my original windscreen.

Yes, the picture does show the pink cowl installed. Currently working the fiberglass on the windscreen to forward deck transition. Since my first airplane was of the plastic variety, it's kinda like riding a bike, you never forget how but know why you stepped up to a car;)

sika006xw3.jpg
 
Sikaflex endorsement - educate me please.

Hi Dana:

That's good to hear, I'm about one week from glueing my canopy on as well.

I have question that I have not been able to find an answer for yet. Do you use both the cleaner and primer on the aluminum framework? Or is the primer just for the plexiglass material?

Cheers, Terry.
 
terry.mortimore said:
Hi Dana:

That's good to hear, I'm about one week from glueing my canopy on as well.

I have question that I have not been able to find an answer for yet. Do you use both the cleaner and primer on the aluminum framework? Or is the primer just for the plexiglass material?

Cheers, Terry.
Click to expand...

Terry, you put the primer on both the roll bar and plexiglass. Be sure and tape both surfaces where you don't want the primer to get on. I used the technique of putting spacers between the roll bar and windscreen and "injected" the glue, being sure I was getting a good flow. I used a regular hardward store hand pump caulk gun. Worked great.
 
Sikaflex endorsement - educate me please.

Hi Dana, thanks for the reply. One more question if I may.

When you pull the spacers out, do you have to re-prime the area where the spacers were before filling these areas with the Sikaflex?



thanks, Terry.
 
Hey Dana, your timing is impeccable...I'm about to do my windscreen early next week...I've been trying to figure out what to use for 1/8" spacers on the roll bar since it's diameter is much larger than that of the slider frame. Would you mind telling me what you used? I'm thinking the rubber hose washers won't do the trick here.

Also, did you use Sikaflex along the rest of the windscreen, too? I was thinking of how to get the glue into the very forward part of the windscreen without making a mess...I didn't think it would be too pretty if I squeezed it in place from outside. How did you manage this?
 
Remember, I am very new to this and there are several more knowledgeable people on this list than me on Sikaflex. First of all, this is a great place to start: http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy

One tube was plenty to attach the windscreen, thanks Greg. Terry, the way my windscreen fit, I only had to use seven spacers and I did not reprime those small areas. I filled these areas, then ran a cosmetic bead and just used my gloved finger to get a nice smooth finish. The spacers I used were hose washers but cut pieces of water hose.

I thought about running a bead of Sika, and have seen websites that people have done so, on the forward transition between the windscreen and forward deck but opted for what I did before: apply black tinted flox mix for structural integrity, a layer of glass, micro then Super Fil. I'll finish the process with another layer of glass/micro to encase the Super Fil.

Any yes, another plus is IT'S BLACK:D
 
My recent bonding of canopy with Sikaflex also went smoothly and quickly. I use small (1/4") square pieces of black water heater hose for spacers and found that superglue holds the spacers in place very well. I just left the spacers in as removing them would be difficult in my installation.

The only minor problem I had after completion was that I was not careful with one or two clamps and managed to leave a very small dip in the edge of the canopy due to a clamp slipping. The Sikaflex is so strong that the plex will not spring back from the clamped position after the stuff sets up.

I did find that a roto-loc sanding disk is ideal for any later reshaping of the cured Sikaflex (but be careful around the plex).

I'm now ready to make the final pass for a nice smooth joint. I will also bond my metal rear skirt with Sikaflex.
 
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