david.perl

Well Known Member
Hi there

I am about to sikafix the canopy down (7 tip up) and see some builders incorporate a 1/8th inch glue gap and others don't.

I wondered if there is a consensus on what's best?

thanks

David
 
David,
I did include the 1/8 inch gap. My understanding is that this allows for relative movement between the plexi and the steel tube as they expand and contract at different rates relative to temperature. Without the gap, I would be concerned about stressing either the plexi or the bond. To get the gap, I tie wrapped two water hose washers to the tube at about one foot intervals. I applied a second layer of sika later and filled in the gaps left by the washers then.

Good luck!
 
Be carful with the primer, tape eveything off well. it will etch the canopy.
 
I bonded my tip up with Sikaflex. Over the top of the canopy frame and roll bar, it is easy to put in the 1/8" gap. As the canopy comes down to the side rails, the amount of room there for the gap is limited. I used some 1/32" nylon line as a spacer along the side rails of the canopy frame. This allowed me to follow the plans for constructing the canopy frame without having to move things around to get a bigger gap. I think it will be fine. The instructions for Sikaflex are dealing with large flat windows on boats that are installed in flush frames. Without a good gap on a large flat window, there will be the potential for some thermal expansion stress. With our smaller bubble canopies, most of the expansion is outward on the bubble, and is probably minimal along the edges. Also, our aluminum canopy frames will also be expanding to thermal conditions along with the plexiglass. Time will tell, but I'm really glad I bonded the bubble on. It is not going anywhere. That stuff is really strong.

Check my web site for more photos and commentary on the canopy build process.
 
I put the 1/8" gap between the plexi and the sliding canopy frame. I did not put a gap along the canopy skirt to plexi. So, I guess I have an example of each. 4+ years later, both are still holding very well.
 
7 Tip Up.

Didn't bother with the 1/8" gap.

Try experimenting with the trim to get the triangular Sika fillet out of the gun - it isn't tricky and helps, especially around the front.

Don't forget to finish the glareshield before sticking the bubble on. I managed to get the bead - just so - and it left an even bead on the inside that didn't need any tooling.

If it's a slider - consider a 2 step process. Minimal Sika to get it stuck, then apply the fillet and dress off with a popsicle stick.

It stick to the primer, clothes, wood etc, but not to bare perspex or aluminium.
 
Here is the way I engineered my gap.

I believe the gap between the frame and the plexi is important for the Sikaflex to do its job. Here is how I did it.

1. First, I positioned the cut canopy on the frame and drilled #40 holes to fix the canopy to the frame with clecos. Every 3 to 4 inches worked out about right.

2. Next, I used electrical tape to mask out where the Sikaflex would go on the canopy and on the frame. I then sanded the part of the canopy and frame where it would be bonded.

3. I then went to the aviation section of my local hardware store and bought the thickest small o-rings I could find. The diameter of the 0-rings was about 3/16" and they were about 1/8" thick. The trick is to cleco the o-riings between the plexiglas canopy and the frame, leaving a small gap for the Sikaflex.

4. After mocking everything up and determining that the holes/clecos/o-rings were spaced close enough to ensure a fairly uniform gap between the canopy and the frame, take everything back apart.

5. When you are ready for the big fix, get a friend with a steady hand and a caulk gun. Load the Sikaflex into the caulk gun, clean both the canopy and the frame surfaces that are going to be glued together and then paint both surfaces with that expensive primer they sell. Use a cheap 1" bristle brush. The foam brushes are too limp for the job.

6. Once the primer is a little dry (it does not take long), Cleco the canopy onto the frame, with one o-ring between the canopy and the frame for each hole.

7. Then, use the caulk gun and a rubber gloved finger to shoot the Sikaflex into the gap between the plexi and the frame. Use your finger to smooth the fillet. Have plenty of gloves handy, because they gum up easily and it works better if you change gloves often. If your electrical tape barrier is placed correctly, the fillet should be just about right, overlapping the tape just a hair.

8. Once all of your fillets have been shot and smoothed, pull off the tape, because Sikaflex sets pretty fast. That is why it is good to have a friend helping. The two of you can finish the canopy before everything sets.

9. Once the Sikaflex has set, you are good to go. Don't worry about the little o-rings encased in the adhesive, they are now just part of the matrix. This procedure works better than the sliced hose spacers, because you do not have to go back and remove the spacers and fill the holes.

For me, this worked like a charm on my 8A. It helped to have my old buddy, Sam Beale flying wing on the big event. He was a wizard with the finger fillet maneuver.
 
Screen stop

I used 1/8" rubber screen stop from the local hardware store.
Worked great. I cut lengths about 3 ", used between the glare shield
And the canopy.(tip-up) Removed them and later filed those spots. Get a long extension for the sika to make a filet
On the inside. I also inset the side rails 1/8" by putting a 1/8" shim
Between the forward weldment and side rail. Then put some 1/8stock
As a spacer between side rail and side skin. Used the Clecoed side skin
To hold the canopy in place. Climbed in and ran a 1/8" bead on the sides.
Filited with a wet finger. Not one hole drilled in the canopy.
 
Hi there

I am about to sikafix the canopy down (7 tip up) and see some builders incorporate a 1/8th inch glue gap and others don't.

I wondered if there is a consensus on what's best?

thanks

David

On my tipper, I utilized two laminated "popcicle" wooden f/g strir sticks for forming my canopy gap. I wasn't happy with only an 1/8".
I'm closer to 3/16"+ for the gap. Now, on the rear window, I'm at an 1/8". Reasoning that there is a much smaller foot print of plexi to
bond - less expansion/contraction than the canopy. No holes with sika, no need to. Bonded my canopy skirt with sika system as well.
No rivets, smooth. The only caviat would be, take care in running the numbers for the width of the canopy using sika vs drilling and screwing.
It could be as much as 5/8 of an inch difference.
 
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Thanks everyone for the information. I've scoured other build logs for input and yet ive picked up yet more tips here. I made the Big Cut yesterday so am close to the bonding process. What a wonderful resource this forum is, id be lost without it. Thanks again.

David
RV7 SB
London, UK