miyu1975

miyu1975

Well Known Member
In doing some searches tonight I find there are several types of sikaflex one can buy. What kind is everyone using here...ie sikaflex-552...and who sells it?
I am planning to use this on my entire canopy install...No drilling for me.
 
Ryan,

I just did my Sika not too long ago. Here's what you need. Mine was a tip up. A slider may be different.


209D - Plexiglass Primer for the canopy
206G+P -Sika Primer for the aluminum frame
226 - Sika Cleaner for surface prep
295UV - Adhesive ( I used 1 tube, buy 2 just in case.)

I bought some of it from Jamestown Distributors, but they had a delay with the adhesive which I got sooner from www.boatersworld.com


More than anything you need lots of tape to mask off the areas that you don't want to get it on. It won't stick to unprepped plexiglass, but it is like proseal on painted surfaces.
 
Everyone seems to skip the 206 G&P. However, it is needed for the aluminum according to Sika. Ask and see if anyone in VAF land has any left overs. I know that I used barely half of all my supplies. I gave the rest to another builder. He may have some left over as well.
 
great thx....I am curious as to if anyone has used sika instead of the screws completely half and half...

how were the results.?
 
miyu1975 said:
great thx....I am curious as to if anyone has used sika instead of the screws completely half and half...

how were the results.?
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Mine has one hole: for the canopy latch (slider).

I've done mine twice, as I managed to drop a wrench square onto the top of my canopy after I was done bonding it the first time, which shattered it. Based on the experience of removing the broken canopy from the frame, it is tenacious. I used a sharp razor blade to free most of the acrylic, but in the areas where I attempted to forcibly remove it, the urethane itself tore (cohesive failure). I was unable to create an adhesive failure anywhere. The acrylic broke apart instead as I tugged with clamps, pliers, etc.

I did not use any 206, but I didn't bond to aluminum anywhere (my canopy skirt is fiberglass).

Getting a smooth, aesthetic fillet is an art. One which I haven't mastered yet.

I am confident in the process due to experience using Sikaflex and other urethanes in marine applications, but ultimately time will tell. My canopy skirt is one piece and is riveted to the frame along the sides per the plans, so the aft portion of the skirt provides some mechanical security.
 
apkp777 said:
Everyone seems to skip the 206 G&P. However, it is needed for the aluminum according to Sika. Ask
Click to expand...
I think you are right Tony... I watched a bunch of videos last night on Sika and came to the same conclusion. I won't like it (because the primer is the most expensive part), but I'll buy the 206 for the skirts, and the 209D for the plexi and the canopy frame.

If anyone in VAFworld has some recent unused 206, PM me. I think the shelf life (unopened) is only 9 months, and I'll be lucky to get to my skirts by September. I'll likely end up just buying both.

Also, are people putting additional UV protection on the outside of the canopy, or are they just relying on the black Sika 209 primer? I assume that when you glue a slider canopy you don't put on the C-653 cover strip over the top of the center bow?
 
IowaRV9Dreamer said:
I think you are right Tony... I watched a bunch of videos last night on Sika and came to the same conclusion. I won't like it (because the primer is the most expensive part), but I'll buy the 206 for the skirts, and the 209D for the plexi and the canopy frame.

If anyone in VAFworld has some recent unused 206, PM me. I think the shelf life (unopened) is only 9 months, and I'll be lucky to get to my skirts by September. I'll likely end up just buying both.

Also, are people putting additional UV protection on the outside of the canopy, or are they just relying on the black Sika 209 primer? I assume that when you glue a slider canopy you don't put on the C-653 cover strip over the top of the center bow?
Click to expand...

I didn't use the cover strip, so by default I'm relying on the 209 primer (which is coal black) for UV protection locally.

You can extend the shelf life considerably by keeping the stuff cold. Mine lives in the mini-fridge in the hangar- you DO have a mini fridge, don't you? :D
 
I just ordered my Sika from merrittsupply.com. It was the lowest cost on the net that I found and no harzardous shipping charge either.

Total cost shipped for 1 can 226, 1 can 209D, 1 can 206GP, and 3 tubes 295UV from Florida to California: $149.35.
 
Masking technique; problem avoidance

Hey Ryan! I see you're getting after it - I just finished doing my windscreen in Sika 295UV.

One thing I found out the hard way: Do NOT allow the Sika fillet to overlap any of your tape lines. The problem that creates is due to how the Sika dries.
It will form a pretty tough elastic skin where its exposed to the air. If your tape lines are under the skinned-over Sika, you will not be able to pull the tape off. And if you try to peel the tape from under the partially dried Sika, you'll have a disaster on your hands because the tape will destroy your beautiful fillets, the gooey Sika will string between the tape and the work surface, and will make a Big-Huge Mess.

I managed to recover from this, but had to carefully cut the "skin" with an Xacto knife while pulling the tape off. In some areas, I had to leave thin tape strips under the work.
 
Canopy Fillet

Bill

I am thinking of using Sitka for the fillet on the front outside of the canopy on my RV-4. This will be a strip 2" wide and 1/2 to 3/4" thick in places. In your opinion is this an appropriate use of this product and how quickly do you need to pull the edge tape up? Also how hard to get it to hold a contour?
 
Sika Fairing...

Tommy, although 295UV is thick enough to build a radius out of, I wouldn't use it for that purpose. In my (limited) view, Sika is best used to make the canopy / airframe mechanical bond and to fill gaps between the glass and structure. Things like fairings should be done with fiberglass, overlaid on top of the Sika bond.

Also, on the RV4: I remember the frontal canopy fairing on my 4 had to overlap slightly ahead of the instrument panel. So, on my airplane, it had to be stiff and hold shape when open or closed. Maybe not an issue if your canopy fits differently...
 
sika technique?

Bill Wightman said:
One thing I found out the hard way: Do NOT allow the Sika fillet to overlap any of your tape lines.
Click to expand...
Hi Bill - I'm right behind - about to order my Sika. I was planning on goodboatgear.com, which came to about $137 for the stuff above.

Can you check me to see if I have the basic technique correct:

1) Tape off (using vinyl tape) and scuff the plastic. Ditto on the frame. The area on the plexi will be quite a bit wider than the glue joint... like maybe 1/2" or more beyond the edge where the frame tube is.

1b) Does scuffing mess up the tape? if so, new tape after scuffing but before priming?


2) Apply Sika cleaner, than Sika primer. The edge of the primer will form a visible black edge on the canopy. This will be wider than the sika glue fillet. The finished edge of the black primer is set by the vinyl tape.

2b) I'm scared about Sika primer getting under the tape. I'm using yellow 3M vinyl tape from Spruce. Any hints on avoiding this particular horror?

3) Leave the tape alone, clamp frame to canopy and glue... but don't get the glue on the tape. In other words the glue stays on the primerd plexi, but doesn't go out far enough to get on the tape.

Thanks for any technique hints.
 
IowaRV9Dreamer said:
Hi Bill - I'm right behind - about to order my Sika. I was planning on goodboatgear.com, which came to about $137 for the stuff above.

Can you check me to see if I have the basic technique correct:

1) Tape off (using vinyl tape) and scuff the plastic. Ditto on the frame. The area on the plexi will be quite a bit wider than the glue joint... like maybe 1/2" or more beyond the edge where the frame tube is.

1b) Does scuffing mess up the tape? if so, new tape after scuffing but before priming?


2) Apply Sika cleaner, than Sika primer. The edge of the primer will form a visible black edge on the canopy. This will be wider than the sika glue fillet. The finished edge of the black primer is set by the vinyl tape.

2b) I'm scared about Sika primer getting under the tape. I'm using yellow 3M vinyl tape from Spruce. Any hints on avoiding this particular horror?

3) Leave the tape alone, clamp frame to canopy and glue... but don't get the glue on the tape. In other words the glue stays on the primerd plexi, but doesn't go out far enough to get on the tape.

Thanks for any technique hints.
Click to expand...

I used blue 3M masking tape and had no problems with primer intrusion under the tape. I was a bit paranoid about that though, so I was super careful to make sure the tape was pressed down everywhere before I primed. I'll second Bill's comments about the fillet overlapping the tape. On canopy #1 when I attempted to peel the tape away I messed up the fillet on the top bow. As for scuffing ruining the tape, I used a maroon Scotchbrite pad. The tape held up fine. Maybe because both products are made by 3M so they like each other ;)

Another random piece of advice... the primer is nasty stuff, and very volatile. On a hot day it will flash off almost more quickly than you can apply it. I found that pouring off a small amount into a paper cup then applying it quickly was best. The stuff is so expensive that I didn't want to waste any. After the initial application I peered through the plastic from the backside so I could find and touch up the inevitable holidays. Wear a respirator when applying that stuff!
 
I used Sika, that stuff gets everywhere. It won't stick to plexi or aluminum that doesn't have the Sika primer, but it does stick to paint. I regret not doing a better job masking it off. Particularly on the tip-up roll bar brace.
 
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Is there a walkthrough or how-to guide for the sika? I see a lot of tips threads, but what are people using as a step by step
 
The tape edge can be used to advantage.
I used masking tape and plastic sheeting to mask off the canopy, but I used simple electrical tape for the Sika edge.
As soon as you get the fillet formed and the edge contoured, you must pull the electric tape to cut the final edge line. You have only minutes to do this or the Sika will skin over and then...
I also bonded the RV-8 skirts directly to the plexi. I held it in place with 5 clecos, tape and some spacers between skirt & frame.
The bond line Skirt - to- Canopy was pushed down tight to a very thin joint, then squeezed out Sika was wiped off and the electric tape pulled for a perfect seam.
 
bkthomps said:
Is there a walkthrough or how-to guide for the sika? I see a lot of tips threads, but what are people using as a step by step
Click to expand...

Hi Brian, I found (somewhere here on VAF, I think) a step-by-step guide by Pete Howell. Pete did a great write-up for his local EAA chapter (If I recall correctly). It's been over 3 years since I've done mine, and those directions worked pretty well. Not all that hard to do.
 
bkthomps said:
Is there a walkthrough or how-to guide for the sika? I see a lot of tips threads, but what are people using as a step by step
Click to expand...

Have you seen this thread? The photo link in the first post is broken, but post 25 on the third page has a good link; there are some captions with the photos. They were adequate to get me through the process.

There's another thread with useful info here.
 
I did, I guess I need to use the traditional instructions to at least get past the "big cut" first, and then go from there- have a ceiling hung natural gas heater in the garage now, so getting up to 80F is no issue
 
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