I like to start with at the SOURCE of the signal and run each circuit from the source just like the other branch is not there.

You will need to splice the two branches together at the source.

I wish you were near by so that I could SHOW you how I would do it as it is difficult to type it up.

I would use a single wire from the unit connector. The two wires from the shielded cable would splice into it. I would "Daisy Chain" the shields together and run one ground wire from the shield to the ground.

The drawing you reference does NOT show a shielded wire on P4001-46. If using single wires, I would still do it the way described above. Individual wires spliced together at the source contact or as close to the contact as possible.
 
RV6_flyer said:
The drawing you reference does NOT show a shielded wire on P4001-46. If using single wires, I would still do it the way described above. Individual wires spliced together at the source contact or as close to the contact as possible.
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You're correct, the drawing I referenced doesn't show a shielded wire, but the G430 installation manual shows one out of that pin on P4001. I would think any serial or ARINC cable ought to be shielded.
 
RV6_flyer said:
I would use a single wire from the unit connector. The two wires from the shielded cable would splice into it. I would "Daisy Chain" the shields together and run one ground wire from the shield to the ground.
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Are you soldering the branch wires to the parent conductor (wire from the pin), or using a crimp?

If soldered, I'd be worried that eventually the soldered connection at the pin could fail (break). If crimped, I'd be worried that there would be too long of an unshielded wire going into the pin.

Guess I'm a worry wart :)

Thanks
 
apkp777 said:
Get the solder sleeves from Stein. They are a very good way to connect shields.
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Terminating the shields is not the problem. I have had great luck over the years soldering a shield termination wire to the shield that has been pulled back over the conductor, then using heat shrink over the soldered connection. More labor intensive than a solder sleeve, but also less expensive (virtually nil) and less bulky.

I'm trying to find the best way to essentially have two conductors come out of the same pin. Since you can't put two wires in a pin, a branch connection is necessary.
 
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Ah, gotcha. Yeah no problem making your own solder connection for the shields. You can still use a solder sleeve (or your method) to splice a wire to make a "Y" connection so that you can use 1 pin supply 2 wires. Raychem makes a nice solder butt splice that you can get from Home Depot. They are cheap and very good quality. I don't think you will see them fail, though I share your concern. I am a little more reluctant to make my own solder splices. Though that too is a pretty solid joint. As you know 2 wires to a single pin is a no, no.
 
I should add that I have to do the same task in joining the Dynon AP servo wires prior to pinning to the Dynon Network cable. I plan to use solder sleeves (only because I have a bunch) Otherwise I would use the Raychem solder sleeves from Home Depot.
 
At our Comm....

flickroll said:
.... If crimped, I'd be worried that there would be too long of an unshielded wire going into the pin.

Guess I'm a worry wart :)

Thanks
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...frequencies, the Mil Spec (and some NASA documents) is 2 inches max. for a shield pigtail.
 
For the pins crimping is the way to go. Unortunately, the Daniels crimper and positioners are expensive.

I bought an AFM8 crimper and positioners pretty cheap ($60 for the crimper and $25 for the positioners) off of EBAY. Do a search for AFM8. For the hig density D-Subs on the garmin, you will need two positoners and a third for standard D-subs.

AFM8 Mil Spec Positioner for HIGH DENSITY D-Sub FEMALE Sockets.
M22520/2-06, Daniels DMC Part # K41.

K42AFM8 Mil Spec Positioner for HIGH DENSITY D-Sub MALE Pins.
M22520/2-08, Daniels DMC Part #: K42.

AFM8 Mil Spec Positioner for STANDARD D-Sub Connectors, BOTH Male & Female.
M22520/2-08, Daniels DMC Part #: K13-1
 
AltonD said:
For the pins crimping is the way to go. Unortunately, the Daniels crimper and positioners are expensive.
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I have a Daniels cripmer and all of the positioners that I need. Still trying to figure out the best way to do a branch connection though.....
 
az_gila said:
...frequencies, the Mil Spec (and some NASA documents) is 2 inches max. for a shield pigtail.
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Dragging out an old thread here....

I am looking for a picture or description of how to bring the shield pigtail out of the connector shell and terminate it. Or more like where to terminate it.

I plan to use solder sleeves (only because I have a bunch) Otherwise I would use the Raychem solder sleeves from Home Depot.
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I have searched the HD site and only find Tyco solder butt splices. Anyone have more info on these? I failed to order some from Stein with the rest of my goodies and want to do the radio harness this weekend.

Thanks!

Phil
 
pmnewlon said:
Dragging out an old thread here....

I am looking for a picture or description of how to bring the shield pigtail out of the connector shell and terminate it. Or more like where to terminate it.



I have searched the HD site and only find Tyco solder butt splices. Anyone have more info on these? I failed to order some from Stein with the rest of my goodies and want to do the radio harness this weekend.

Thanks!

Phil
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I can show you. I've done two or three so far on my panel. The panel is at home and I'll be working on it tomorrow afternoon if you want to give me a call.

I've learned to ignore both Lowes and Home Depot's web sites. It doesn't list half the products they stock.

bob
 
barryrv10 said:
Why are two wires in one pin a no-no, as long as they fit? Thanks Barry
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Barry - I'm not an expert on this topic and didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night..... but I have been working on my radio harness the last couple days and can tell you this:

According to Bob Knuckolls, you should use 22 or 24 AWG wire for your harness and connectors. The shielded wire I got from Stein is 24AWG and the rest I am doing with 22AWG. Neither of those sizes will allow you to get two wires in one pin. In fact, I am wearing reading glasses and a jewelers headset so I can see the hole and make sure all the wire strands are inside the cup of the pin before crimping. I can't imagine how small the wire would have to be to get two in one pin.
 
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