Michael Burbidge

Michael Burbidge

Well Known Member
How did you secure the flap motor wire to the inside of the flap motor actuator channel. I've seen some drill a couple of small holes through which they tie the wire to the channel. But this is visible from the outside.

Thanks,
Michael-
 
I riveted couple self made aluminum brackets to the channel inside and Ty-wrapped wires to them. Light, looking clean and prevents chafing. Will dig for a pic.
 
axlr8r said:
Would it work too??
Steve
Click to expand...

Would what work?

The problem with the sticky pads is that when the plane sits out in the sun, those pads heat up and fall off.

By using the trim adhesive you will never have to worry about them falling off. I simply clean the spot where I'm going to place the zip-tie pad and the back of the pad with rubbing alcohol, slip a zip-tie through the pad to make sure the glue doesn't block the holes, apply some goop, and put it where it is needed.

Here's a picture of the stuff I'm talking about.
B37022704.jpg
 
PS. I put a snap bushing in the aluminum strip that goes under the vertical flap support bar. Then I put covered blade connectors on the flap motor wires so I could pull them back through the snap bushing. Here?s the trick, put one male and one female connector on the flap motor. That way you can?t connect the flap motor backwards when doing maintenance or your condition inspection.
 
Adhesive

Bill
I was wondering if RTV would work as an adhesive under the pads.
The Auto goop looks like a good alternative.
Would the goop also be strong enough to safely hold down a small terminal block. I'm trying to keep wire runs away from anything that moves.
Thanks
Steve
 
Goop is Strong Stuff

Steve,

If you scuff the base metal that you are bonding too and clean it well to degrease (alcohol, Naptha, etc)... Goop is the ticket for bonding most anything. The wire tie bases bill refers too hold rock solid when attached with goop. If you are bonding to the vertical, use some Blue painters tape or something like it to "Dam" up the adhesive so it doesn't run down from the area to be bonded. Let it set for a good 24 hrs or so and move on to the other 2500 things that need to be worked on :)

Jeff
 
While RTV (Missed it in the title block) might work, it doesn't hold up to fuel and oil.

You can always glue the zip-tie pads down and then zip-tie the terminal blocks to them. That will keep the blocks from vibrating against the skins. Better yet would be to use plate nuts to hold those blocks in place. Then you can remove the blocks, do your wiring, and then screw them down securely.
 
Which pop rivet

Gil what kind of pop rivet did you use?

Where did you guys get these tie blocks. I found them at aircraft spruce. But they only sell packs of 100' for around $40.

Is there something special about the ones at aircraft spruce?
 
Michael Burbidge said:
Gil Where did you guys get these tie blocks. I found them at aircraft spruce. But they only sell packs of 100' for around $40.

Is there something special about the ones at aircraft spruce?
Click to expand...

They were not cheap but ACS was the only place I found them and I think it was worth the $$$ and a package of 100 will go a long way.
 
Michael Burbidge said:
Gil what kind of pop rivet did you use?

Where did you guys get these tie blocks. I found them at aircraft spruce. But they only sell packs of 100' for around $40.

Is there something special about the ones at aircraft spruce?
Click to expand...

Not critical, but I used the Vans standard LP4-3. IIRC the formed end can be on the tyrap side and will still be recessed - so a flat headed rivet could be used in a dimple from the reverse side.

Cheif seems to have the same parts on a per-piece basis - CTM 0 here -

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/InstallationSupply/CableTies.html
 
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another way - run the flap wires down from the top

I ran the flap wires under the canopy deck / longeron, and then insiide the F-705F channel, and down to the motor. I had to use a few standard adel clamps, but none are visible. The only place you can even see a screwhead for an adel clamp is on the backside of the F-785A backrest brace... and to see that you have to be in the baggage compartment!

I am trying to run a minimum of wires under the floor, so I ran a pretty good bundle down each side of the fuselage as I described. Other wires included the flap position sensor, flap limit switch, baggage light wiring, headset jacks, 2 GPS antennas, a NAV antenna, and 2 remote compass cables. It seemed to work out well but has been a lot of work.

Good luck!
 
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