[WingedFrog]

This section starts by asking to complete section 12, the empennage fairings section. Earlier I skipped sections 11 (empennage attachment) and 12 (empennage fairings) for space reasons, not that I could not fit the empennage in my workshop but I would have to remove the Elevator to go through the door. My questions are:
- Is it possible to proceed with section 32 without completing sections 11 and 12, understanding that the flight controls adjustments will be done later after sections 11 and 12 have been completed?
- If I decide to complete sections 11 and 12 now, will the removal of the elevator a) be cumbersome and b) ruin the flight control adjustments and force me to do them all over again?
also, would there be any benefit limiting empennage work to just the VS and rudder and delay the elevator? (which would solve my space problem)

 

[dick seiders]

Jean-Pierre, I don't see any issues with the order of assembly here. The rudder and V.stab are independent of the stabilator. I did the whole assembly of all three components in my shop including setting stabilator cable tensions. Later dis assembled all and took to paint shop, and re assembled in my hanger finding all connections, cable settings, etc., to be as originally set up. The only problem with the whole deal is the installalation of the stabilator is such a pain with gluing the washers into position etc. and you will have to do it twice using the method I did. If you do that it's also a great idea to have a helper handy when fitting those troublesome spacer washers (both times).
Dick Seiders 120093

 

[Bill_H]

Get 2 people to hold up the stabilator while you fiddle with it in the middle. Use a sliver of flat aluminum with a small piece of tape on it to help you with the washers if needed. (Some people buy an expensive washer-holding tool for that.) I found that superglue was terrible - didn't work - but a tiny dab/thread of black RTV was great at holding them. You can wait until the very end to finally attach the stabilator and VS/rudder. Just use some safety wire to hold the cable ends in place until you do. You do have to temporarily attach the wings to drill the flaperon attach rods but the tail is not related to that. Go ahead and put the fiberglass fairings on top of the rudder and VS at any time. I did not tension the stabilator cables until mounting it for the last time. You don't need to, to check the clearances.

 

[Tony_T]

Stabilator attach...

Jean-Pierre,
Actually, you could leave Section 11 and 12 until final assembly. Just be sure to do it before painting anything, since trimming of the stab skins to clear the tailcone fairing will likely be necessary.

I attached my stabilator once so I could do the tailcone fairing and checked clearances, removed it for space reasons, and then installed it at final assembly, then tensioned the control cables.

I don't think you need to find 2 people to help with the stabilator. You can if you want, and buy them lunch to compensate for all the frustration. But I use a pair of dead men to hold the stab while I manuever it from the middle. The dead men don't jiggle around at all, or knock the washers off, or eat lunch.
Works real well for me, I can install the stab in a matter of minutes:

Also, be sure you tape some thin cardboard on the sides of the fuselage to prevent scratching it all up with the stab, especially with two people helping. There is no way they can hold it steady without touching the fuselage with it. Note with my method I am so confident, no cardboard .

Tony

 

[David Paule]

Two related things to notice on Tony's photo - his table has wheels and they are lined up in the direction he needs to move to install or remove the stabilizer. The lining up is important to prevent movement side to side.

And the fuselage tires are chocked so it can't roll away from him.

Dave

 

[WingedFrog]

Thanks guys,

Your advices are priceless for me, no instruction manual can substitute to real life experience it's why I value this forum and its participants so much.

 

[Tony_T]

Two related things to notice on Tony's photo - his table has wheels and they are lined up in the direction he needs to move to install or remove the stabilizer. The lining up is important to prevent movement side to side.

And the fuselage tires are chocked so it can't roll away from him.

Dave

Actually, the stab is resting on carpet pads attached to the two supports and once the table is close you can slip the stab very easily into place without moving the table or anything. You can rock it up and down so as to get the proper vertical alignment of the bolts holes as well.

Tony

 

[DonFromTX]

All valuable information Tony, I had been wondering how the heck I was going to put that on by myself. Now I know.

 

[Tony_T]

Use "bullets" to help align...

Also, when the bolt holes are close to alignment, I slip a "bullet" in to get it perfect before trying the bolt.

Tony

 

[Geico266]

Also, when the bolt holes are close to alignment, I slip a "bullet" in to get it perfect before trying the bolt.

Tony

Those don't look like AN aircraft hardware to me!

Just kidding, those are a great idea since a yawl is too narrow for bolt alignment.

While I like Tony's idea about the table, I did not have the room at the time. I was able to put the stabilator on and take it off by myself several times. Just need to drink decaf before trying it, and use super glue on the washers.