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BigJohn

Well Known Member
Here's a question for you builders who have finished the "finish kit", and have done some things out of sequence due to space limitations. How did you handle the sequence of connecting/adjusting the flight controls that require the wings, empennage, and tail feathers to be in place? I am at a place now in the "flight controls" section that calls for connecting the control cables to the stabilator and rudder. Did you guys mount the tail feathers for these adjustments, and then remove them for storage, or did you just defer all the control hookups until you had room enough to permanently attach them and leave them there?

Same problem for drilling the flaperon attach fittings, that requires the wings to be installed. No way am I going to be able to attach a wing, even temporarily, until springtime when I can get the beast out into the driveway. How hard will it be to get at those fittings when the airplane is all together?

Any advice or war stories appreciated.

John
 
Hey John

I took all the parts ( painted ), to the airport, and final assembled them. Set up a nice way to connect things up, and it worked well. Spent about 2 days doing most things. Final drilled the flaperon tubes during first wing install. Installed wing seals on next wing install. Left fuel tank and rear panel out for access. All worked well. Would do it again that way. Have a friend with a car hauler and wing slinges set up. Made it pretty nice. No paint scuffs etc.

John Bender
 
I did the same as John. Took all of the parts out to the airport and attached the flaperons then inserted the wings for the FIRST time. Drilled the torque tubes at that time (do not forget the temporary spacer). The rear window and the turtle deck skins were not yet installed and such made drilling the torque tubes very easy. In fact, John Bender came down and helped me with that portion of final assembly. Everything fit perfectly.

Did the same with the HS and rudder. They were also installed and the flight controls rigged at the airport.

Would do it the same way (especially leaving off the turtle deck skins) if I build another.
 
and believe it or not...the wings go in and out easier each time...not only do you get the hang of it...i guess they kind of settle in. so do the pins that hold the upper cowling on...easier each time, especially if you lube them with a good dry lube like Boelube (Avery Tools).
 
Thank you fellows for all the good advice.

Just one more question - Did you connect the control cables up front and run them to the back end at home and then just connect them up at the airport, or did you just leave the cables completely off until at the airport? It seems like it might be easier to run the cables now while everything is accessable and the fuselage is up on its side. Agree or disagree, or doesn't it really matter?
 
John,

Reflecting back, I could have mounted the VS and rudder at home, used the wooden box and cut the rudder cable links to size to tension the rudder cables per the plans. This is easier with a 2nd person to help. The stabilator cables can also be run, loosely attached to the turnbuckles and temporarily tie wired or secured in some manner to the aft bulkhead. You would not want to tension these until the HS is mounted for the last time.

the rudder cable links rust, so after cutting them to size, prime/paint them.
 
John

Depends upon type of trailer you use. Since I was using a car hauler, I could not put any of the tail pieces on. The cables can be installed loosely. I just run some wire thru them in the rear so they would not fall back inside. Like Marty said, if you have a helper for part of the things once you get to the airport, you can do most any of it then. I would certainly do all you can at home. You will still have to take more tools ( than you will remember to take with you ) to the airport.

John Bender
 
At the same place

John:

I am at pretty much the same place in the build. I did skip ahead and mount the landing gear so that I can easily move the airframe around. On Friday, I took advantage of a 44 degree day (before the snow started to roll in!!) and rolled it out on the driveway. With the help of a friend, we were able to mount the flaperons on the wings and the install the wings and drill the torque tubes- took about 3 hours to do all of that. Then rolled it all back in the garage. During reassembly of the torque tubes (after final drilling), I went ahead and installed the roll servo for the autopilot as well (this is a good time to do this if you are planning on this option). I am thinking I will go ahead and mount the VS/rudder and install those cables but leave the stabilator for later (just stringing the cables for it as others have suggested).

Good suggestion on the rudder cable links Marty- I noted some rust on mine when I separated them today. I think I will just hit them with some epoxy primer.

Jeff
 
Test Fitting the Fuel Tank

JBPILOT said:
I took all the parts ( painted ), to the airport, and final assembled them. Set up a nice way to connect things up, and it worked well. Spent about 2 days doing most things. Final drilled the flaperon tubes during first wing install. Installed wing seals on next wing install. Left fuel tank and rear panel out for access. All worked well. Would do it again that way. Have a friend with a car hauler and wing slinges set up. Made it pretty nice. No paint scuffs etc.

John Bender
Click to expand...

Hey John! I'm at the same stage. where I need wings and empennage attached for control rigging, which is impossible in my basement. I would also like to build the tank and test fit it, but leave it out until later. I would like to just cleco in, the baggage area roof, for fitting the fuel filler neck, and then remove it until the last minute, and the rigging is finished. Maybe even fit the back window while the panel is clecoed in place. Any thoughts on the subject?

Tom
 
Hey Tom

You can do all those things. I had painted my fuse, so the rear deck sides I already had in place. If I had not painted them, I would have left them off also. Makes it a lot easier to do the flaperon tube arm drilling etc., with those side skins off. I did not have the rear window in for inspection. I spoke to my DAR first, and he said it was fine. I took pictures of the flaperon mechanism at the rear end, and had that covered up also. Leaving the rear window out is a strong plus, but you better ask first.

John Bender
 
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