S

Smilin' Jack

Well Known Member
After receiving the new SB for the elevator, I was thinking what about the rudder... basically the same design... I like Mel's idea of adding a washer to those rod ends also... I am going to call Van's tomorrow and discuss this with them..

I will order the SB tomorrow for the elevator since I already have the other one on order... No cracks and I have been following the elevator thread on the forum for a while and have made an extra effort to look at those during my preflight.

Might as well do it all at once since everything has to come off the tail..

Doug... I am not bashing Van's, I am thankful for their watchful eye. It is just a shame just after finishing the plane and flying it for a couple of months that I am now going to have to do the SB to give peace of mind.

Jack
 
Smilin' Jack said:
... No cracks ......

Doug... I am not bashing Van's, I am thankful for their watchful eye. It is just a shame just after finishing the plane and flying it for a couple of months that I am now going to have to do the SB to give peace of mind.

Jack
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Jack, I must be missing something in your post because you state you have no cracks. Why are you taking your recently completed aircraft out of service to do the SB fix. Inspection showed no cracks, Right?
 
Smilin' Jack said:
After receiving the new SB for the elevator, I was thinking what about the rudder... basically the same design... I like Mel's idea of adding a washer to those rod ends also... I am going to call Van's tomorrow and discuss this with them..
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Thanks, but it was Walt's idea. I just agreed with it.
 
Mel and Walt. Can you please keep us all posted on the recommended washer that you would use. I have also read a thread a while back on a recommendation to install a washer on the attach bolts that hold the horizontal stab to fuselage.

Thanks
 
I plan on installing an AN960-616 or AN960-616L depending on how many threads are availalbe.
It is standard practice to use washers under the heads of bolts to increase beariing area and help distribute the load.
 
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Gary,

I am planning on several long trips, and I carry the most valuable cargo in my life my family and friends, I also really enjoy doing acrobatics as that was some of the most fun I have done in my life. I have studied the SB's and although they will take some time to complete I figure about a week max, I am pretty current on my riveting still have the shop set up at the hanger so why not complete the SB.

Later if I want to sell the aircraft for any reason the buyer will know that all SB's have been complied with and they don't have to pay a mechanic several hundred dollars to complete it.

We have about 7 RV's at KJZP and most of the guys are going to do it.

The paint on my plane is still new enough and the painter stated he could use a airbrush and use a hot blend to match the existing paint if needed. Apparently this hot blend softens the existing paint so they blend together and practically make a shade difference hard to detect. I have single stage PPG on the tail.

Jack
 
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I am reconsidering the elevator SB since according to Vans:

Method of Compliance:
NOTE: If cracking has occurred at an outboard hinge position, install a doubler only at that position. If cracking is present at an inboard hinge position, doublers must be installed at both the inboard hinge points. This allows correct positioning of the attach point for the elevator horns.

That would mean to me that they seem to be pretty adamant about only complying if their are cracks... I think I will follow Walt's idea on the washers for the elevator. I just hope that the washers will not hide any cracks that could form.
Jack
 
I would enjoy coming to watch some of the work. Drop me a PM please. Always looking for a reason to go fly.
 
Wider AN970 Washers

Walt said:
I plan on installing an AN960-616 or AN960-616L depending on how many threads are available.
It is standard practice to use washers under the heads of bolts to increase bearing area and help distribute the load.
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I was also planning on using AN960 washers, but then this SB got me thinking . Why not use the wider 970 washers, they would provide quite a bit more bearing area. I don't have access to my tail kit right now, so I can't check. Would AN970-6 washers fit between the rivet heads? What are the opinions on using those washers instead?
 
After receiving the new SB for the elevator, I was thinking what about the rudder... basically the same design... I like Mel's idea of adding a washer to those rod ends also... I am going to call Van's tomorrow and discuss this with them..
Click to expand...

Please post the Vans view on installing washers.

I will order ... for the elevator since I already have the other one on order... No cracks...
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Maybe put a hold on that? Didn't the revised SB explicitly state not to install the doubler on the elevator if there were no cracks?

Dan
 
Regarding the AN-960 or AN-970 bearing washers, I also believe are a very good idea and will only need to have relief notches or holes needed for rivet head clearance.

A repair is required only if cracks are present, only a careful annual inspection is needed and we do that each year anyway.

So if there are no cracks, that seems to be the way to go and be sure to keep those jam nuts tight.

Glenn Wilkinson
 
David Z said:
I was also planning on using AN960 washers, but then this SB got me thinking . Why not use the wider 970 washers, they would provide quite a bit more bearing area. I don't have access to my tail kit right now, so I can't check. Would AN970-6 washers fit between the rivet heads? What are the opinions on using those washers instead?
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The large OD 970 washers are huge and heavy in comparison to the 960 and would likely extend past the rivets. My personal opinion is it may also add to much stiffness to the joint and create additional problems.
A little extra bearing area to help spread the load is all I was wanting to do, keeping the nuts tight is probably the most important thing to avoid problems in this area.
 
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glenn654 said:
Regarding the AN-960 or AN-970 bearing washers, I also believe are a very good idea and will only need to have relief notches or holes needed for rivet head clearance.
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Unfortunately, the nut would need to be turned in place to tighten it against the skin... Notches won't help.
 
Snowflake said:
Unfortunately, the nut would need to be turned in place to tighten it against the skin... Notches won't help.
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I think they are talking about the close proximity of the rivet to the hinge bolt, if you simply put a washer on there, it is going to be sitting ontop of the rivet head and not contacting the spar.
 
bret said:
I think they are talking about the close proximity of the rivet to the hinge bolt, if you simply put a washer on there, it is going to be sitting ontop of the rivet head and not contacting the spar.
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Sorry, brain f*rt... I saw "washer" and read "nut". Notching a nut to clear a rivet head didn't make any sense...
 
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