jeffw@sc47
Well Known Member
I went ahead and implemented the SB on my slow build wings yesterday.
I discussed the logic of doing this with Vans and a few 14 builders and other RV builder/flyers that I know. Good arguments both ways; to do now or not to do?
My decision boiled down to my bottom skins not on, my control tubing and bell cranks not installed - which makes it easier to do now. Also, once it is done I won't need to inspect it annually (but I will do that because that makes sense). The best argument I heard to not do it now was 'If it's not broke, don't fix it - because drilling out the rivets needs to be done very carefully and you don't want to get any oblong holes'.
Accessing and drilling the rivets now was magnitudes easier now than it would be later and I took special care in doing it, no issues; and the new bracket installation would be easier now. The total time from removing existing aileron hinge brackets, breaking out the SB kit, deburring, priming, assembling, installing, and cleanup was about 7 hours.
This in Step 7 - 'When upgrading to the W-1013D, W-1013E, and W-1013FG Aileron Hinge Bracket parts, it will be necessary to remove the two bottom rivets in the tabbed portion of the aileron gap fairing.' I did remove the two rivets in the gap fairing tab for needed clearance. When you get to Steps 26 and 27, I found that it was better to reverse the steps to install/buck the gap fairing rivet closest to the front-of-spar large doubler plate flange before the new aileron hinge parts are installed; the shop head is close-tight to the large doubler flange.
I discussed the logic of doing this with Vans and a few 14 builders and other RV builder/flyers that I know. Good arguments both ways; to do now or not to do?
My decision boiled down to my bottom skins not on, my control tubing and bell cranks not installed - which makes it easier to do now. Also, once it is done I won't need to inspect it annually (but I will do that because that makes sense). The best argument I heard to not do it now was 'If it's not broke, don't fix it - because drilling out the rivets needs to be done very carefully and you don't want to get any oblong holes'.
Accessing and drilling the rivets now was magnitudes easier now than it would be later and I took special care in doing it, no issues; and the new bracket installation would be easier now. The total time from removing existing aileron hinge brackets, breaking out the SB kit, deburring, priming, assembling, installing, and cleanup was about 7 hours.
This in Step 7 - 'When upgrading to the W-1013D, W-1013E, and W-1013FG Aileron Hinge Bracket parts, it will be necessary to remove the two bottom rivets in the tabbed portion of the aileron gap fairing.' I did remove the two rivets in the gap fairing tab for needed clearance. When you get to Steps 26 and 27, I found that it was better to reverse the steps to install/buck the gap fairing rivet closest to the front-of-spar large doubler plate flange before the new aileron hinge parts are installed; the shop head is close-tight to the large doubler flange.
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