Relative speed...

Has anyone retrofitted the Sam James updraft ram-air induction system into their plane? I'm curious how much modification needed to be done and if there was any performance increase. http://www.jamesaircraft.com/Induction.html

Mike,
I haven't seen any numbers on the updraft induction yet, but I'm curious to see the difference.I recently flew Chad J's RV7 from IL-FL and his SJ cold air induction numbers combined with the SJ cowling were impressive above 10K. If you fly high alot, it would be worth even 1" of MP gained. My RV4 was pre-FAB days and I built my own induction with bypass filter. The Ram-Air system is still running strong with very comparable numbers to the SJ.

V/R
Smokey

"The easiest hot rod item on any mode of conveyance has always been the ability to induce more air!"
Don Garlits
 
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induction

Has anyone retrofitted the Sam James updraft ram-air induction system into their plane? I'm curious how much modification needed to be done and if there was any performance increase. http://www.jamesaircraft.com/Induction.html

From what I read, not everyone can do it.
One system is for the FI guys, updraft can use shorty cowl, forward facing needs extended cowling.
Another is for carb'ed guys and only if you use the extended cowl. If you use the shorty cowl, you install an adapter on the standard FAB.
From website: The RV-4 and the Shorty RV versions all use the standard Van's air induction.


This is what the website says about performance:
"Ram air induction: Flying with unfiltered air may lead to costly repairs. Our systems filter "full time" using a very low restriction K&N filter that provide an additional one inch of manifold pressure over ambient at 5000' density altitude."

This seems to be right in line with Smokey's comments about high flying!

Not to highjack the thread, but Smokey might be a good one to comment on the different induction systems. James says they use a "very low restriction" K&N filter. K&N doesn't state the surface area of the filter medium so it is hard to make an exact comparison to the std Van's K&N filter in the std FAB induction system. Both systems take the air from the front of the airplane and filter it and turn it up into the bottom of the carb. Could the cone shape of the James induction system really make 1" of MP difference??
 
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Ram-Air!

Not to highjack the thread, but Smokey might be a good one to comment on the different induction systems. James says they use a "very low restriction" K&N filter. K&N doesn't state the surface area of the filter medium so it is hard to make an exact comparison to the std Van's K&N filter in the std FAB induction system. Both systems take the air from the front of the airplane and filter it and turn it up into the bottom of the carb. Could the cone shape of the James induction system really make 1" of MP difference??

Bob,
You are absolutely right about the adaptability of different intake systems on the RV-4 (and Rocket). The original vinylester extended hub cowlings had a small scoop which the FAB would not fit. When Van introduced the FAB back in the 90's, many "old timers" were skeptical as to the performance gains/losses. The standard up until that time was a "home-made" RAM-AIR box fitted to the small cowl scoop. Even the larger scoop on later cowling only allows a very tight fit for the FAB. Based on the photos, the SJ product would have a difficult time fitting in a stock RV4 cowl in my humble opinion.

When the FAB was introduced, Van did extensive tests with the prototype RV4 FAB-off/on to prove that it worked every bit as well as RAM-AIR. The results were posted along with extensive test data in the RV8R. On paper, the FAB looks like a win-win.
However comma, when I flew a friend's FAB equipped RV4 on a long XC with the exact same engine as mine I noticed a definite loss of MP above 10K. Minimal, but even 1 inch is very noticeable up high. I decided to stay with my RAM-AIR and installed a by-pass with a K&N filter per the 89' RV-4 builders manual! I would simply close the by-pass when entering the traffic pattern and open it when climbing above 1000' AGL. Opening the by-pass always yielded 1-2" of MP increase. Many times above 10K I would experiment with airflow by closing the by-pass. 2" of MP loss was routine. I know it isn't a true FAB comparison since my by-pass was underneath the cowling with much lower airflow. My Rocket had a very similar system which worked even better due to the HR2 cowling design.

Now that thousands of FAB equipped RV's are safely flying, most builders view the FAB as an "acceptable compromise". Since the Sam James system also has a filter between the airflow and the fuel atomizer, I am doubtful it could match RAM-AIR any more than the FAB.

V/R
Smokey

PS: On a recent RV-10 pre-buy inspection I discovered a unique FAB modification, a trap door! The lower filter plate had a door on it connected to a push/pull cable, effectively making the FAB RAM-AIR capable. Hmmmm

 
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Good Info

Bob,
You are absolutely right about the adaptability of different intake systems on the RV-4 (and Rocket). The original vinylester extended hub cowlings had a small scoop which the FAB would not fit. When Van introduced the FAB back in the 90's, many "old timers" were skeptical as to the performance gains/losses. The standard up until that time was a "home-made" RAM-AIR box fitted to the small cowl scoop. Even the larger scoop on later cowling only allows a very tight fit for the FAB. Based on the photos, the SJ product would have a difficult time fitting in a stock RV4 cowl in my humble opinion.

When the FAB was introduced, Van did extensive tests with the prototype RV4 FAB-off/on to prove that it worked every bit as well as RAM-AIR. The results were posted along with extensive test data in the RV8R. On paper, the FAB looks like a win-win.
However comma, when I flew a friend's FAB equipped RV4 on a long XC with the exact same engine as mine I noticed a definite loss of MP above 10K. Minimal, but even 1 inch is very noticeable up high. I decided to stay with my RAM-AIR and installed a by-pass with a K&N filter per the 89' RV-4 builders manual! I would simply close the by-pass when entering the traffic pattern and open it when climbing above 1000' AGL. Opening the by-pass always yielded 1-2" of MP increase. Many times above 10K I would experiment with airflow by closing the by-pass. 2" of MP loss was routine. I know it isn't a true FAB comparison since my by-pass was underneath the cowling with much lower airflow. My Rocket had a very similar system which worked even better due to the HR2 cowling design.

Now that thousands of FAB equipped RV's are safely flying, most builders view the FAB as an "acceptable compromise". Since the Sam James system also has a filter between the airflow and the fuel atomizer, I am doubtful it could match RAM-AIR any more than the FAB.

V/R
Smokey
Smokey, Thanks for the info, after reading your comments about history, I pulled out my 27yrs of the RVator and read the "Induction:Carb Heat and Airboxes" section from 1991. Quite detailed too. Not sure how much has changed or been discovered in 20 years though.
Vans Quotes: " Ultimately it seemed wise to start over and develop an all new, full time, filtered airbox." and further on...speaking of the current standard airbox.."Tests thus far have shown that this filtered induction system provides a manifold pressure equal to the Ram Air system."

More from RVator. Titled OUR FILTERED AIR INTAKE BOX:
"The new air intake systems we have just released for the RV-4 and -6 are based on the pressure recovery principal of achieving a high manifold pressure. In principle it works like this: There is a small air inlet in the cowl, about the same area as the carb throat, positoned away from the cowl so that it is exposed to free stream of air velocity. The air passes through the inlet at high velocity and enters an expansion chamber where the air velocity decreases smoothly so the energy of the incoming air is converted into pressure. A cylindrical filter is mounted approximately centered below the carb inlet. The air passing through the filter enters the carb from all directions promoting an even airflow."

So....Pressure Recovery airbox = same as Ram Air ??
When thinking about this and investigating it, seems to me the induction issues might be like cooling issues....all depends on your execution of the details. Like, how airtight is my induction system? not very, when I think about the connection to the cowling and how about the carb heat valve area, does it leak air too? If you are using the James induction system and looking for more performance, you may pay more attention to detail and the system itself seems to be more leakproof with the neoprene seal at the nose, etc. The James induction seems to do the same thing Vans does in regard to the Pressure Recovery, it just flows the air in a tube from the filter box to the carb, either system has the air turning or flowing a 90* turn into the carb.

While exploring options and seeing James induction system, I also found Rod Bowers induction system. I emailed Rod and asked about using his system on my -6 with a James extented cowling, his reply was interesting. Kind of follows Vans Pressure Recovery thoughts.

"Bob I have not tried to adapt my system to carburation. Field experience indicates that a Plenum and filter is needed to make the engine run properly. Carbs are mounted vertically and an adaptor would be needed to organize the air flow and attach the filter cannister. Rod"

Actually Rod's system is a ram air system with filtered bypass air. First thoughts made me think it might have been a plenum chamber like James's system. Honestly, I didn't think about the plenum chamber until I read the 20 yr old article in the RVator.

So what is better on a carb'ed set up in an extended James cowl?
A. Well executed Vans induction connected to James cowl intake ring.
B. James induction system connected to James cowl intake ring. (this is like the -7 you flew from Ill to Fla and liked it too.)
C. Bowers Ram Air system with elbow to connect to James intake ring. (seems this is closest to your RV-4 set up.)
I know better is subjective, really just looking for your thougts !

Thanks in advance for reading and helping me and others with this.
 
Into thin air...

So what is better on a carb'ed set up in an extended James cowl?
A. Well executed Vans induction connected to James cowl intake ring.
B. James induction system connected to James cowl intake ring. (this is like the -7 you flew from Ill to Fla and liked it too.)
C. Bowers Ram Air system with elbow to connect to James intake ring. (seems this is closest to your RV-4 set up.)
I know better is subjective, really just looking for your thougts !

Thanks in advance for reading and helping me and others with this.

Bob,

Weapons school answer: It depends...:) Personally, if your current induction/cowling setup is working well, I wouldn't change anything. However comma, since you asked, my RV performance improvements top three are:

1. Electronic ignition. Adds at least 5HP, better fuel economy, easier starts, cheaper spark plugs (automotive). I like the Electroair system.

2. Good rigging/drag reduction . Aileron/Flap/tail incidences straight and true. Tight fitting intersection fairings on gear legs. Attention to detail on antenna placement (inside) Flap-Fuselage fairing for my RV4 and RVX.

3. Correct propeller. Significant losses or gains with different engine combinations. In 20+ years my favorite props are still made by Craig Catto.

IF I were building now I wouldn't change much of my thinking from 89' which was light, cheap and simple. I would still use Van's cowlings and fairings, (I haven't seen huge gains for the investment from the SJ products). I would however consider these items for my lightweight 21st century "Fastback" RV-4.

1. EFII or Silverhawk II "total performance" electronic fuel injection/ignition.
2. Lycoming IO-340 stroker (lightest weight-HP ratio available)
3. New design Catto Three Blade prop.

Regardless of fuel atomization programs, I would go with the Van's FAB on the Van's cowl, it works well, easy to service and priced right. If the SJ cowl used, the SJ induction works well. For the RV-10, the Bowers system really works well on the IO-540.
Hope that helps..

V/R
Smokey
 
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I would however consider these items for my lightweight 21st century "Fastback" RV-4.

1. EFII or Silverhawk II "total performance" electronic fuel injection/ignition.
2. Lycoming IO-340 stroker (lightest weight-HP ratio available)
3. New design Catto Three Blade prop.
Smokey, I hope I am not hijacking this thread too much but just had a comment on your list. I am not flying a -4 but a 9A. I guess really not the same type of airplane but... I am flying with 2 out of the 3 items on your list. The 1st item you list is a little different on my configuration but close. I installed the ECI IO-340 stroker with ECI forward facing cold air induction and ECI fuel injection with return fuel lines. This is the one thing on your list that is just a bit different. I do have fuel injection but not electronic fuel injection. However, I do have the Light Speed Plasma III electronic ignition with one Slick mag. Perhaps I could improve some on efficiency if I were to go with dual EI but my setup is pretty good right now without the second EI.

I also have the Catto 3 blade that Craig built specifically for my IO-340 and cruise specs I defined. I just cannot imagine any prop performing better. I went with the Catto prop and the stroker IO-340 for the weight/hp ratio. The 340 came in just around 8 lbs heavier than a comparable IO-320 but puts out 180+ hp. When I received my prop from Catto the first thing I did was take it out of the packaging and weigh it. It weighed 12 lbs! I think these two items shaved a considerable amount of weight off of my airplane without compromising power and performance. Performance is great.

Anyway, just writing to say I agree with your assessment of these items. I would install these items again in a heartbeat if I ever build another RV. They are perfect for this platform.
 
RV by the numbers..

Performance is great! Anyway, just writing to say I agree with your assessment of these items. I would install these items again in a heartbeat if I ever build another RV. They are perfect for this platform.

Steve, sounds like you have a very nice combination, congrats! Since I have been flying my RVX 6/4 combo with 0320/Catto I have more in common with the 9 community who seems to strive for light, efficiient airplanes. l bet your 9A Is fast, fun and fuel efficient. With 100LL at 6 bucks a precious gallon, you planned wisely. I would be curious how it would stack up in a CAFE fuel efficiency competition. My guess: "very well" :)

Hope to see it in person someday...
V/R
Smokey
 
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Steve, sounds like you have a very nice combination, congrats! Since I have been flying my RVX 6/4 combo with 0320/Catto I have more in common with the 9 community who seems to strive for light, efficiient airplanes. l bet your 9A Is fast, fun and fuel efficient. With 100LL at 6 bucks a precious gallon, you planned wisely. I would be curious how it would stack up in a CAFE fuel efficiency competition. My guess: "very well" :)

Hope to see it in person someday...
V/R
Smokey
Thanks, it is very efficient. I typically see 150-160 mph cruise speeds running 25-50 LOP burning about 7.0-7.5 gph. This is running RPM's around 2350 MP around 23 and the engine around 70-75% HP while LOP. Last weekend we had some great tailwinds coming home from a trip where we saw a ground speed around 210 mph. The MPG reading at some points on that trip were showing about 28-29 MPG. So 28 mpg cruising at 210 mph! I don't know any other vehicle that will give me that kind of efficiency.
 
Smokey, some great info you've posted, thanks. My RV4 has the Vans FAB. The plane is pretty quick for a 160hp and C/S prop but when I get over 7000' my performance degrades. Cruising over that I see a pretty decent decline in my air speed which I didn't see in my RV7 until I got above 11K. This is where I think the ram air would really help. Perhaps I need to look at some ways of rigging up a filter bypass path and valve that I could get some direct air to pick up that extra inch or so of MP.
 
OK, I didn't build a -4...

But I did ride in one once.

I put the short Sam James cowl on the O-360 I installed in my -9.

It turns out that the Sam James K&N cone filter would only work on the long cowl and their other solutions were for the forward facing sumps.

Thus I was stuck with trying to figure out how to modify the FAB to fit my installation.

Here are some pictures of my installation. I have no way of comparing them the standard FAB, other than flying side-by-side with another O-360 powered RV-9 and that isn't likely to happen in my life time. However, it must work OK because the thing will cruise at 200 MPH at WOT at 8,000' DA.
 
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Thanks

Smokey, Thanks for your input on the induction systems and overall choices.

Bill, Thanks for the link to the pictures of the FAB.....wow that was a lot of work. Good job with the pictures, it really helps show the amount of steps involved to use a shorty cowl and the vans FAB.
 
The air up there...

Perhaps I need to look at some ways of rigging up a filter bypass path and valve that I could get some direct air to pick up that extra inch or so of MP.

Mike/Bob,
Here are three pictures of my RAM-AIR systems on my RV4 and HR2. I built the RV4 system from drawings in the 89' builders manual. It's rolled .040 blind riveted with a 1/8" TIG welded flange for the carb attach. The HR2 system was purchased directly from John Harmon. www.harmonrocket.com

Hope this helps a bit...
Smokey

PS:Ditto the nice job on your Nine FAB Bill, wow!

RV-4 "scratchbuilt" system.

Front

Side
Rocket "store bought system"

Rocket
 
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WOW

Smokey, Nice pics......Vans sketches in the RVator make more sense now. Very simple looking. Can I assume no carb heat on the RV-4 or was the alt air supposed to be enough? Love the exhaust systems....very simple! The FAB has really changed things!
 
The Heat is on...

Bob,

Lycomings, having the the carb bolted directly to the sump with inlets submerged in a 190F oil bath are less prone to carb throat icing, unlike small Continentals. However, I am cognizant of the potential, therefore the K&N filter is mounted very close to the sump and is hot to the touch when removing the cowl post-flight.

I flew "The Bandit" many hours in the ID back-country and AK during prime Carb icing conditions with one incident, ever. It occurred in steady light rain at 40 degrees F in N. Canada.The symptoms were subtle, a slight RPM/MP loss. I pulled the alternate air (filter bypass valve) and in less than 30 seconds it was alleviated.

V/R
Smokey
 
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Bob,

I have carb temp in my plane and I've noticed that when I slow down, the carb temp goes up enough that carb ice shouldn't be an issue. This is probably due to the decreased airflow through the cowl.

This was true with both the O-290-D2 and the new O-360. I installed the carb heat "just in case" but did not install an alt air door. Because of my plane is VFR only status, I feel there is no need for the alt air door.

As for people who say I could take a bird in the FAB, well that is true but I could also take one in the face and I'm not going to put a bird catcher in front of the canopy.
 
Smokey, thanks for the pics. I never thought of putting the filter on top. Was there any direct air inlet to the filter or it just used the air inside the bottom of the cowling? It also appears that there is no airbox surrounding the filter.
 
KISS principality...

Smokey, thanks for the pics. I never thought of putting the filter on top. Was there any direct air inlet to the filter or it just used the air inside the bottom of the cowling? It also appears that there is no airbox surrounding the filter.

Mike,
My thinking was that the engine would be at or near idle anytime the filter was being used, mainly on the ground. I never intended for it to be an in-flight filter system, hence the simplicity of breathing air from inside the cowling. It literally looks exactly like my car in HS, a chrome K&N filter right on top of the carb.

My standard flying technique was to select "by-pass" on takeoff roll and re-select "filter" at flap retraction post landing. However comma, it works very well inflight with roughly 1" MP loss from full RAM mode to by-pass filter mode at 2400RPM/5000'.

V/R
Smokey

PS: Amazingly many early RV-4's had no filter at all, some with screen door screen over the hole!
 
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But if you get for example a small rock inside the duct it will be stucked there until you open the hatch.
I have an intake very similar to Smokeys and I was thinking of making a small rectangular opening just in front of and below the hatch, this will hopefully make any foreign object go out that way (into the bottom of the cowling) when the hatch is closed.