miyu1975

miyu1975

Well Known Member
I have seen rvs with the safeair static air kit where the port is flush on the outside...while installing mine tonight I am noticing it is not flush..is the norm. did safeair change the kit or am I missing something?

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Ryan,
That looks fine. A slight protrusion seems to give more accurate airspeed. Make sure you use a sealer on the inside around the mounting flange.
 
Ryan,

They didn't give accurate readings when they were flush.

That's why I mounted mine on the outside like this.
 
no sealer required

Rockyjs said:
Ryan,
That looks fine. A slight protrusion seems to give more accurate airspeed. Make sure you use a sealer on the inside around the mounting flange.
Click to expand...


Ryan - you have the new version that works. just install like your pic. you shouldn't need any sealer. make sure the safeair fitting has the teflon tape on it.
 
Ryan

Thats how I did mine. Prosealing rather than riveting. Cleaned up the "nipple"
with a mauve scothbrite pad. I think a better looking solution than Van's rivet
technique.
 
Ryan

I am about to put mine in as well. Just curious, are you going to rivet it in, or use an adhesive.

I am leaning toward adhesive.
 
about the sealing

Hi,

I've still a lot of ground to cover until I reach that point, I remember some valuable advice about the sealing though: while sealing (the safeair aluminum element against the skin) isn't necessary for it to funktion properly, one builder had problems with the inspection of the static system. After these "suction cups" where installed the test equipment indicated a leak, the "leak" turned out to be between the skin and the pop rivet though. The system was fine but the test couldn't show it because the test equipment sealed against the skin, not the pop rivet or safeair element itself.
 
Proseal

Just put mine on a week ago, proseal only after scuffing the mating surfaces. Looks just like the picture, slight protrusion, proseal makes it very solid.
 
I wish I'd Prosealed mine in rather than riveting. My rivet bucker was my son who hadn't bucked any rivets since he "helped" me with the VS a dozen years ago (yeah, I had to order a new VS skin after that session). I ended up with dents from insufficient pressure behind the rivet. Nothing that I couldn't fix with a dab of filler, but still ... use Proseal.

As for mounting the Safe-Air fitting on the OUTSIDE of the fuselage skin, I can't imagine that being a very good idea. The designers have put some thought (as well as some trial-and-error) into designing the fitting so that just the right amount emerges from the side of the fuse to give accurate readings. They found (as have others) that air dams and such only introduce even more accuracy into the system.

As I recall, the instructions even mentioned that the amount of protrusion from the skin allowed for a thickness of paint.

It will be interesting to see how your speeds compare once you're flying. I hope it works out OK.
 
I was planning on riveting...but may have changed my mind to prosealing it..although I don't have any proseal currently and would have to order some.
 
miyu1975 said:
I was planning on riveting...but may have changed my mind to prosealing it..although I don't have any proseal currently and would have to order some.
Click to expand...

Same here, Ryan. That's why I chose riveting -- didn't have any Proseal (that wasn't YEARS expired) and didn't want to order some, only to use a dab or two.

See if there's somebody around Indy building some tanks. Maybe you can borrow a glob ... or use some JB Weld.
 
Ryan,
Put those static ports in the way the plans tell you. Drill the 3/16's (I believe) hole exactly where Van's tells you. Then attach the elbow to the port. Then put proseal on the flange, then install from the inside. Aim the elbows up, and then put some duct tape on the vents to prevent them from falling out until the proseal cures. Don't bother riveting.
If you need some proseal, I might be able to deliver some on Saturday.

Best regards,
 
thx Jthocker for the offer..I did a local builder with some extra proseal...I also have jb weld..I wonder if that will work?
 
Ryan--

The guys at Safe Air told me to a) Proseal and b) not to worry about the errors...the form factor of the vent has been changed.

Mine are all plumbed up, and solid as a rock with the Proseal. I ordered 5 or 6 of the little ones, threw them in the fridge, and they keep a long time.

Joe
 
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