rv9builder said:
What's the safest alternative to use on bare 2024 Alclad parts for light cleaning like removing felt pen marks and the residue from the blue plastic? I've been following this thread (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=136609), and it looks like all the usual suspects (MEK,acetone, lacquer thinner, etc.) are pretty nasty.

Thanks,
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I have all the solvents in the other thread in my hangar / shop. I use the least harmful one that will get the job done. For wiping off felt pen marks, I typically use acetone as IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) does not always get the job done.

For me, MEK is a last resort and only used when I cannot get the job done with something else. I always use protective equipment when using it.
 
Coleman fuel proves to be a good cleaner. It will not get some goo off like lacquer thinner but does well with everything else.

I also use it right when doing final paint. After Alumiprep cleaning and air dry, I do a quick wipe down with Coleman right before shooting the primer coat.

This is still a solvent, so use gloves.

Carl
 
Carl Froehlich said:
Coleman fuel proves to be a good cleaner. It will not get some goo off like lacquer thinner but does well with everything else.

I also use it right when doing final paint. After Alumiprep cleaning and air dry, I do a quick wipe down with Coleman right before shooting the primer coat.

This is still a solvent, so use gloves.

Carl
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aka Naptha.

I used this after reading the same safety thread, but if you check it's MSDS it is almost as bad for you as acetone/MEK, just a little slower drying.

I too prefer Isopropyl Alcohol for general cleaning and use acetone for stubborn stuff.
 
On the felt-pen writing and marks, be aware also that you won't be able to remove ALL the marking, with any solvent ever made. The Alclad aluminum alloys we use have a very thin layer of pure aluminum on them for corrosion resistance (it forms aluminum oxide on contact with atmosphere and seals the surface), and this layer of pure aluminum is so soft that a Sharpie or felt-tip marker will actually scratch the surface slightly. The result is that you can remove the ink with a solvent (rather easily with Acetone, or MEK if it has been on there a long time) and still read the writing from the microscratches left behind in the Alclad layer.

The only way I know of to really get rid of the remaining marks would be to polish the aluminum, as some do in place of a paint job.
 
Safe?

I don't think there is a Safe solvent. My dad always said the faster it evaporates, the more hazardous it is.
 
Get good gloves and a respirator..good solvents mean you'll have good clean up for paint, sealant, ect. Most "safe" solvents will likely not equal the prep requirements of the next step. I personally like MEK, and the Coleman fuel is great for residue free cleaning. A little solvent goes a long way..no need to flood things. I store mine in self closing sealed metal containers made for that purpose.
 
ONE MORE DARN THING....

Since nobody has mentioned it......what I've seen in the average hobby-ist shop ( I won't get into what I've experienced commercial screenprinting for years!!!) ....is that you only need, and use a few drops of the solvent at a time........
but.....
you open a gallon can, and for convenience, leave the cap off. It's cheap, right?
then you splash a few ounces, not drops, on a rag.
wipe..... lean right over that thing....wipe again.
set rag 'aside'.
go do something else.
come back....now the whole shop has a nice concentration of vapours from the rag, the piece flashing off, the open can.
inhale, repeat as needed, until you talk like 'Rocky'! :rolleyes:
( yo' Adrian, I don' feels so gud, y'know?)

as the smart guys have said; there's no SAFE solvent, really. Heck, I have a reaction to those strong 'orange' cleaners.

so, now up on a different soapbox....
- save your cleaning for the end of day if you can.....
- ventilate the shop while and after using solvents. That means an exhaust fan, and open window at the other end of the shop to let IN fresh make-up air.
- put the solvent in clearly labeled little squirt bottles. food grade, like contact lens solution bottles, will hold almost any solvent....and dispenses only what you need.
- gloves, goggles, obviously as needed...and don't let unprotected 'help' stand around breathing the junk you are trying to protect yourself from. tell them to go away!
- get a respirator, with carbon filters for 'organic' vapours. you're gonna need one for painting anyway, get a good one, get it fitted, don't lend it to anyone, bag it between uses, (or the expensive filters just continue to try to filter all the air in the shop!)
- rags go into a sealed metal tin immediately after use. this is a good fire precaution also.
 
I use lighter fluid, sparingly, to remove the residue left from removing the blue plastic. Works well but probably harmful.
 
Denatured alcohol has a place in the cleaner list of liquids. A bit more effective than iso p. alcohol
 
flightlogic said:
Denatured alcohol has a place in the cleaner list of liquids. A bit more effective than iso p. alcohol
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+1 I primarily use denatured alcohol for most routine cleaning and prep. Mineral spirits/Varsol get used for degreasing and only escalate to acetone or MEK when really needed.
 
gyoung said:
+1 I primarily use denatured alcohol for most routine cleaning and prep. Mineral spirits/Varsol get used for degreasing and only escalate to acetone or MEK when really needed.
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+1 I keep squirt bottles with ethyl alcohol, mineral spirits, and water on the bench at all times. You know, like the clear bottles used with distilled water back in chem lab (HF has them)? All labeled. Naphtha will remove the glues , like stick label goo, and finally, if really needed acetone. MEK, lacquer thinner and the like stay on the shelf for last resort. Acetone is my first stop for cleaning the paint gun, though.
 
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Yep, I start with denatured alcohol. If that doesn't work, lacquer thinner. If that doesn't work, MEK. If that doesn't work, hand grenade.
 
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