I like the idea!

What is the pin dia. and the remaining wall thickness on the bolt? did you replace it with some tougher bolt?

Thanks
Bill
 
Why not just use a longer bolt with brass bushings?

That way you can use a Cessna towbar.
 
scootwoot said:
I like the idea!

What is the pin dia. and the remaining wall thickness on the bolt? did you replace it with some tougher bolt?

Thanks
Bill
Click to expand...

This tow bar has been around since 1968. I made it for myTailwind. I used it on my first RV4 and grossed it out at 1550 pounds to check the tow bar for strengh and control on slight grades. So far this tail wheel assy has 1560 hours on N112TT and 360 hours on N12079 plus five or six other RV's I made them for.
Ron
Yaw String
 
Good idea!
I was thinking about a self made tow bar and came up with a similar design like Dan´s. Then I was at Aircraft Spruce and saw different towbars and thought this one could work. So no cutting, welding and painting - bought one. I made an axle out of stainless steel to replace the AN6 bolt on the tailwheel and used two AN364-624A nuts on both ends. On the towbar I installed aluminum inserts to fit the axle extensions on both ends.

IMG_1889edit_zpse6c46de3.jpg


IMG_1890edit_zpsb18b305a.jpg
 
I finally took pictures of the towbar for my -9.

Here is a picture of the tail wheel with the longer bolt and bushings:
2013-01-19_23-08-04_276.jpg


Here is the Cessna ?Delux Tow Bar? attached to the tailwheel. Note, I turned the handle 90 degrees and drilled a hole for the pin.
2013-01-19_23-08-27_551.jpg


Here is the reason for clocking the handle 90 degrees, my ?tug?:
2013-01-19_23-09-07_580.jpg
 
The standard Cessna 150 towbar (ACS p/n 13-01800,) works fine with my tailwheels. Or you can roll your own for about $10. See below.

It's made from ordinary electrical conduit. Just make sure that the conduit you buy will fit over the nut/bolt in your tailwheel, i.e. a little over 5/8" I.D. will work fine.

As you can see in the photos, the key is the sliding strap, made from scrap aluminum, that slides up or down. Sliding it down compresses the tubing onto the tailwheel. It will NOT come loose until you remove it.

Towbar.jpg


Towbar%202.jpg
 
My original idea for a tow bar was to reduce the weight and stay with Vans Tail wheel fork assembly and keep the whole concept low profile and streamlined.
 
Ronald Sutton said:
great idea for a tug.
Click to expand...
Thanks, it works well and we are in the process of welding up a front bumper so we can push it going forward rather than backwards. Pulling it works great but pushing it while driving backwards is a challenge. My only fear with pushing it is what might happen if the bar comes off the bolt.

Ronald Sutton said:
My original idea for a tow bar was to reduce the weight and stay with Vans Tail wheel fork assembly and keep the whole concept low profile and streamlined.
Click to expand...
True, the bolt will add a few ounces and take maybe a 1/4 of a knot off the top speed. I thought about that and realized that by using this configuration I can land anywhere in the world and beg / borrow a Cessna towbar, if I need to.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scootwoot
I like the idea!

What is the pin dia. and the remaining wall thickness on the bolt? did you replace it with some tougher bolt?

Thanks
Bill

Ronald Sutton said:
This tow bar has been around since 1968. I made it for myTailwind. I used it on my first RV4 and grossed it out at 1550 pounds to check the tow bar for strengh and control on slight grades. So far this tail wheel assy has 1560 hours on N112TT and 360 hours on N12079 plus five or six other RV's I made them for.
Ron
Yaw String
Click to expand...

Ron,
Can you answer the question? Inquiring minds want to know.
Guy
 
Well I guess the new to me airplane is now officially mine as I've made my first mod to it. I wanted to have better tailwheel/towbar engagement.

So I ordered the following from Aircraft Spruce:
DELUXE CESSNA TAILBAR 13-01540 $53.95
and
AN6-42 Drilled Bolt

I then got some 3/4" 303 Stainless round bar and machined two bushings that were the same diameter as the bolt head, actually we turned the bolt head down just a tiny bit by taking the peaks off the bolt head so it would fit inside the TAILBAR a little bit easier. The Bushing were 5/8" each to make up the difference between the standard bolt AN6-30 and the AN6-42 bolts.

Here are the pictures, worked out great! Now the towbar goes on and stays on regardless if you are pushing or pulling and/or turning.
I may have lost 3/4 of a knot but I figure if I keep it waxed it will be a wash! :)

2wrnbxj.jpg

2h356w1.jpg

2m44pkw.jpg

30c1s2o.jpg


I hope I'm not severely chastised that the left and right side are not equal, so if you want to really impress your friends I'd shorten the bolt just a little bit and make the right spacer a little smaller.

Thanks for all the inspiration!
 
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