C

C-J

Active Member
Just took my first long trip up north to PA from SC. My new RV 7 performed just super, making the trip in 3.5 hours. The only issue was heat. I was flying at 9500 and froze my tail off. I have a new Lyco 360 M1B with Vans standard heat muff set up. For those that have been there before me, how can I get more BTU's. Thx CJ
 
A set of Vetterman mufflers with the dual heat muffs and you will melt inside. I currently am only running one heat muff and I think it's going to be sufficient for our long cold WI winter.

I noticed a big improvement in the heating after installing the mufflers. Not too mention there really great for noise.
 
C-J said:
. . . For those that have been there before me, how can I get more BTU's. Thx CJ
Click to expand...

Aileron push rod boots
replace the black vents with the expensive aluminum
Block off the corrugations on the baggage bulkhead.
I installed heated seats from Classic aero. I have yet to need them, but they are there when the wifey complains.
 
C-J said:
Just took my first long trip up north to PA from SC. My new RV 7 performed just super, making the trip in 3.5 hours. The only issue was heat. I was flying at 9500 and froze my tail off. I have a new Lyco 360 M1B with Vans standard heat muff set up. For those that have been there before me, how can I get more BTU's. Thx CJ
Click to expand...

The easiest and best single thing you can do is seal between the slider skirts on the side and the canopy deck. That is a low pressure area and warm air is sucked out of the airplane's interior through the opening. Then, cold air is sucked in elsewhere to replace the nice warm air that exited.

The cheap and easy way to seal those gaps is to take a piece of blown foam pipe insulation - the light, flexible foam that you'd install around the copper pipe in your crawl space. Split it in half lengthwise to get two "C" shaped pieces. Then cut those pieces to a length that matches the distance between your windscreen bow and the alignment blocks that capture the aft canopy pins.

Store the foam pieces between the seats and once you close the canopy to go flying, drop 'em in between the slider tracks and the canopy skirts.

You'll be amazed at the difference this makes.
 
Last edited:
Put SS wool (scouring pads) in the Muff... slows airflow, improves area for heat transfer ;)

Also restrict airflow into the muff can help.

Andy
 
What Andy said. Works wonders. I have to barely pull out the heat knob otherwise I get cooked. I put a muff on either exhaust, one into my side of the cabin, one into her side so each of us has individual heat controls.

And sealing up the leaks is important. At 175 mph a lot of air goes through a tiny hole.

greg
 
vetterman exhaust with Robbins wings two pipe muff heater. Comfortable shirt sleeve temps all winter. Been to 13.5 in December in my tee shirt.

RV-4

I take it off in the summer, because heat transfer from the fire wall is plenty warm...
DM
 
AltonD said:
...I installed heated seats from Classic aero. I have yet to need them, but they are there when the wifey complains.
Click to expand...
Back when I was building I thought about putting these in my -9 but then someone posted that the heated seats in their car caught fire and they almost didn't have time to pull over and get the car stopped before it burned up. Needless to say, I went without.

Back to the subject...

Try getting some exhaust wrap and just wrapping the heat muff.
 
Heat Help!

Thank you all for taking the time to respond to my request. As a plan of attack I have done or will do the following:

1) I have the expensive Alum vents and the do shut off
2) My canopy is tight with a Fiberglass skirt and limited leaks
3) I have the aileron tube seals and the Clasic Aero interior, so it is a pretty tight cockpit, still need to seal the canopy track with the slider gizmo.

The real issue seems to be heat out put. When I pull the heat door open is flows like crazy, but only cool (not cold) air. So, I'm going to try the SS pads in the heat muff first to restrict the flow and for heat transfer. Then I may use a restricter plate if needed on the inlet and if all this still does not do the trick, I'll go to Vetterman for a heater
profile_image_popup.php
solution. If anyone see's a better way, or something I missed, I'm all ears!

Thanks again, CJ
 
C-J said:
Thank you all for taking the time to respond to my request. As a plan of attack I have done or will do the following:

<snip>

2) My canopy is tight with a Fiberglass skirt and limited leaks

<snip>

Thanks again, CJ
Click to expand...

Take a look while you're flying. Most canopy skirts bow out 1/8" or so in flight. That creates an 1/8" x 24" air gap on each side.
 
What size baffle hole?

The scat tube is 2" diameter. If you cut the baffle hole 2" you will get way too much air for the amount of heat transfer possible in the heat muff. My baffle hole is only 1" diameter and with one Van's heat muff I have flown comfortable at 20 degrees F and bearable at 10. I have an O-360 A1A, aileron seals, no side panels, no rear canopy seals. At 25 F I do need a scarf around the neck for the draft from the rear canopy skirt but the body is comfortable.
 
OK, I have to ask. How many of those scrubbing pads in a typical heat muff? Two, Four, Six?

Are they available at Walmart? I will look the next time there.

I have the cowling off so now is a good time to do it.

I found them at Walmart. Cleaning supply area, bottom of shelf, hard to see. I saw stainless steel and copper. Got the copper since it may allow better airflow. Possibly a mistake but I am not a stranger to making mistakes.
 
Last edited:
Ron,

Stainless scrubbing pads are available at most grocery stores, probably also at wallyworld. I used one in each side - I doubt you will get more than that stuffed into the available space without really restricting the airflow.

greg
 
double heat muff if you can

I think that the double heat muff will only work with the 4 pipe setup but it does a great job of delivering heat to the cabin.

img5443y.jpg
 
2nd try

After two airplanes I've found HEAT. Here's what has made significant differences.

2 (thats 2, as in 2) heat muffs plumbed in SERIES.

Good quality eyeball vents (like from Stein) that will close completely.

Stuff a bunch of foam rubber in the spar area in the center section to staunch the leaks from that occur from the wing root area. (This helps a LOT)
 
Do's and Dont's

1. Don't pack the heat can with copper scrubbing pads. They get hot and crumble to dust after a while. Use the SST pads as mentioned earlier.
2. Stuff a piece of Spruce's black foam into the air vents from the outside. Almost invisible.
 
For our Australian RVators...Do you have heat, or reckon we need it down under?

Can't say I've ever been overly cold when flying, but then again, I usually fly on a nice sunny day.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the copper pads. I just got three stainless steel pads and will use those instead.

I just put my first pad in. Elected to not spread the muff apart. I took off the inlet hose and tried to stuff one in. Did not work well so I cut it into four pieces and stuffed it in various places from the inlet.

Will also do one for the outlet and that will have to be enough. Since the various pieces should absorb more heat I doubt that this will be anything but a huge success. It is getting colder here now so this is timely.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.