R

ron sterba

Well Known Member
(9A) I have a IO 320 Lyc with 60 amp alternator. (Over voltage protection module on back) On the back is a female socket. in the alternator box came a two wire (16 #AWG RED & White) twisted with the male plug end that fits into the socket. Now in the plans (DWG OP-10) it shows one of these two wires is not used. Do I cut it off at the plug or leave it twisted together and just cap it near the the termination of the other wire? Will it be needed later? DWG OP-10 says see J-2 in ZONE B4. What is ZONE B4? Sure would be nice if vans made a COMPLETE set of plans for EACH model. Trying to find commonality between 8A and taildragger and 6A on the plans makes it difficult. I sometimes wonder why only 8000 planes have been completed out of 30 thousands kits. (KIS) Just saying. Or maybe I making this more difficult than it is.

Starter is a lightweight model. DWG OP-10 Starter Solenoid shows a small jumper being removed from outboard stud to small stud at the top. It also shows that I have to fabricate a jumper from this small stud to the (I) terminal of the starter switch relay. Im thinking there are variables to those connections and was just wondering why? Do I have to comply with my model?

When I fabricate that 16#AWG (Starter) jumper can it be wrapped AROUND the #2 AWG wire from the starter to the starter relay or does it have to have its own clamps and run parallel to the #2 AWG ? Pictures always welcome! Not sure if induced voltage is a problem when running parallel. Does anybody you know write a wiring schematic if I indicate what wiring connections Im planning for? Heading out to the hangar now. I'll respond later tonight. All tips on wiring welcome!

Happy New Year.

Ron in Oregon.
 
GET READY FOR THE ANSWER ON THE ALTERNATOR! Directly from VANS HELP LINE. DWG OP-10 center & top, 60 Amp Alternator. ITS NOT THE DRAWING FOR PLANE POWER ALTERNATOR, check with Plane Power for wiring details. I say make a note of it in your plans drawing book.

Don't have a answer for jumper on solenoid on starter. Do install new 16# jumper wire as depicted in plans just below this alternator detail on OP-10.
Keep you posted on further notes on wire run to relays.

Ron in Oregon.
 
Agree, this part is more confusing than it needs to be.

Following the plane power instructions: The white wire on the alternator can be used to signal an alternator output light. I installed a red LED just above my master switch and when the alternator is not working it is lit up. I verified this by switching the master to alt/batt "on" and spun the alternator up with a socket on a cordless drill. As the rpm increases on the alternator the red light diminishes to nothing. Or, the wire can be cut and capped.

For the starter, I did as the instructions say: removed short jumper and installed new lead back to the "I" terminal. Not sure why, wish there was some explanation here. But I "bumped" the starter (without flywheel installed) and it works in this configuration. Although, It worked with the short jumper installed and no lead to the "I" terminal installed before too. So works both ways, but I followed the wiring diagram. I too would be receptive to some more insight on this one.
 
Starter jumper

Ron, it is my understanding that the jumper needs
To be installed if you have an impulse coupling on your
Left mag. My starter switch ( standard key type) came with a small solid metal
Jumper. I personally found the OP drawings for wiring the panel
Very helpful. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
agirard7a said:
Ron, it is my understanding that the jumper needs
To be installed if you have an impulse coupling on your
Left mag. My starter switch ( standard key type) came with a small solid metal
Jumper. I personally found the OP drawings for wiring the panel
Very helpful. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I believe the original post was in regards to removing the jumper on the starter and not the jumper on the ignition key switch which is what I think you are referring to. But you are right that the ACS A-510-2k ignition switch also has a jumper. I think this is to ground the right magneto during starting if the left magneto has an impulse coupling. Or, in my case, I have dual impulse magnetos, (L and R) so I removed that jumper entirely so both mags fire on startup.
 
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