P

PJ79

I'm New Here
Hi,
Im wondering if anyone has used a IO 320 B1A (dynafocal II) on an RV9? If so what are the issues? I have a dynafocal I mount so obviously I would need a new mount. I have emailed vans but am waiting for a reply on cost of a new mount. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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PJ79 said:
Hi,
Im wondering if anyone has used a IO 320 B1A (dynafocal II) on an RV9? If so what are the issues? I have a dynafocal I mount so obviously I would need a new mount. I have emailed vans but am waiting for a reply on cost of a new mount. Any help would be appreciated.
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I've had a Dynon II mount (intended for an IO-320-B1A) fab'd for an -8. Used Van's fabricator. Took 2-3 weeks as I recall. Nice fabrication.

Changed plans after buying mount... Anyone need a Dyno II mount for an RV-8???
 
You would be better served if you went through Vans.
The Engine mount fabricator worked with me to define what I wanted, but the mount still needs to return to Vans system to be Honed for the nose gear fit and power coated. The Vans systems are in place.
Vans tolerated my quirks and were helpful in facilitating the order, but not directly involved.
Drop me a email, if you still want names and numbers.
 
B1A issues

Peter: This past June I sent my B1A case to Divco in Tulsa Oklahoma and they modified it from Dyna II configuration to Dyna I for $250 US. Took about a week and it looks brand new. They are doing the same mod on another IO-320 B1A case for me and I will have it for sale in about 3-4 weeks if that helps.



Don Broussard
RV-9 Rebuild in Progress
 
cajunwings said:
Peter: This past June I sent my B1A case to Divco in Tulsa Oklahoma and they modified it from Dyna II configuration to Dyna I for $250 US. Took about a week and it looks brand new. They are doing the same mod on another IO-320 B1A case for me and I will have it for sale in about 3-4 weeks if that helps.
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I strongly recommend this route. It will be cheaper and you will not be locked in to the Dynafocal II in the future.

The downside, of course, is the engine must be torn down and overhauled.
 
Thankyou Mel and Don. I like the sound of doing that. I will try to find someone here in Australia that can do the work. The engine has just been rebuilt by western skyways in the US but it will be great to get the experience pulling it down and rebuilding it with some help of course.;)
Peter
 
Another vote for the mount mod. I'd guess if you use a dyna2 without the prop extension your mounts are actually "aimed" too far forward. Not that it won't work, but it defeats the whole dynafocal theory, if it matters.
 
Peter: If your engine is a fresh O/H or low time you could save some time and work by not completely disassembling. The rods could stay on the crank, valves stay in the cylinders ect. Bag and tag things so that you can put it back together just like it came apart, tappet bodies, lifters, pushrods, main bearings go back exactly where they came from. Seals, gaskets and lock washers might be all you need to replace.


Don Broussard
A&P-IA-ATP
RV-9 Rebuild in Progress
 
Thanks Don. Yes that is a great idea. Ill certainly take lots of photos. I found out there is a mob here not too far from home that will do the job. Bit over $1000 AUD all up. I would certainly prefer the dyna 1 setup. Cheaper than $1200 US for a new mount plus shipping. Thanks all for your help. Im still trying to learn about everything I need to consider. Once this modification is made im guessing will be close to being a D1A (besides mags maybe)?
 
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I see the only variance between the IO 320 D1A and B1A is the mounts and the rear mounted bendix fuel injection. Has the rear mounted fuel injector caused problems for those with a B1A setup?
 
B1A

I have heard that somebody has made the rear inlet sump work but have not found any info. The general consensus is that it is not workable or worth the effort and after looking at some 6's & 7's I would agree. I haven't gotten to this point yet but the easiest-quickest solution is to change the oil sump to a vertical inlet and use the stock cowl with the scoop/snout
 
cajunwings said:
I have heard that somebody has made the rear inlet sump work but have not found any info. The general consensus is that it is not workable or worth the effort and after looking at some 6's & 7's I would agree. I haven't gotten to this point yet but the easiest-quickest solution is to change the oil sump to a vertical inlet and use the stock cowl with the scoop/snout
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I have not seen it personally, but I was told that you can have a machine shop machine a hole in the front, and drill some holes for studs to mount the fuel metering servo. Then mount a cover plate over the rear opening. It is a very simple job to take the oil pan off, and it will make sense when you see the inside of it. I can send you pictures of my old vertical induction pan if you want to see how that looks.

Another 2 options. I purchased a superior forward facing "cold air" intake from Aero In Stock for $1,200 USD. You can use the vans snorkel air box, or a ram air scoop.

I have a vertical induction pan for sale for $400 USD that should work also. This would use the vans cowl with scoop as you said. All my information is based on the parallel valve -360, but yours should be the same.

Joel.
 
Thanks Joel. I picked up the engine this week and was given a vertical induction sump as a spare so its all good. So now i just need to get the case machined to suit the dynafocal I mount and it will be all good.:D
 
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