KazooRV-9A

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It appears to me, that the as-molded horizontal split line of the upper fiberglas cowl, is meant to be the split line between the two halves.
There is a well defined added trimline on the lower cowl that can be marked and cut to match the top cowl, once the two halves are located and trimmed to the firewall.
There isn't any direct reference to using the as-molded horizontal edge of the upper cowl, in the Van's instructions. It's straight as received and looks like the intended split.
Is this what builders have been using?
 
My -9A upper cowling has a flange that overlaps the bottom cowling that has a recess step to keep the halves flush. My -10 cowling had a straight butt joint.
 
There is no "cut line" for the cowling on the RV-9. You'll have to trim both top and bottom as needed to make it fit.

I found on mine that the lower cowl at the inlet curves inward on the outer portion and that definitely needed to be cut down.
IMG_4662-M.jpg


Many more photos on my web site.
 
9GT are you saying that the horizontal split line overlaps on your 9A?
Drawing 45 sections N-N and P-P clearly show a butt joint on the horizontal split line...
 
9GT are you saying that the horizontal split line overlaps on your 9A?
Drawing 45 sections N-N and P-P clearly show a butt joint on the horizontal split line...

The raw cowling from the factory needs to be trimmed as needed to get the butt joint shown in N-N and P-P.
I did quite a bit of trimming on the lower and upper cowlings to get it to fit like shown in the the plans. Get a good long straight sanding block and put some 60 grit sandpaper on it to fine tune the eventual gap needed between top and bottom cowlings along the sides and against the fuselage skins. Paint will need a decent 1/32" gap. I also bought some wider piano hinge material so that there is no visible gaps where the hinge loops show along the split line.
 
9GT are you saying that the horizontal split line overlaps on your 9A?
Drawing 45 sections N-N and P-P clearly show a butt joint on the horizontal split line...

The cowling that came with my project is the old green cowling, not the pepto pink. It is actually an RV-6 cowling that was used for the -9 with IO-320 at some point with earlier kits? Sorry, no help.
 
I am working on a green cowling. The build I have is an older one that I bought off of an estate. The top cowl half ends at about the 4th rivet down from the top skin rivet line. it's dead straight, I don't see why I have to trim it up any higher. The lower cowl has plenty of trimmable material to mate up to it. I'll post a picture as soon as I can upload it.
 
Can't tell in your pictures if you have trimmed the firewall edge of the cowling yet. If not, do that first before trimming the horizontal edges (or you will be re-trimming them).
 
Below is the exchange I had via Email with Van's builder support. I'm not sure why they didn't give a more succinct answer than "it might work".
I have of course sanded the lower edge of the top cowl horizontal as-molded fiberglas, to the point where it matches the average thickness of the cowl (I didn't mean to imply use it having never touched it). But that sanding didn't move it by any appreciable amount.
So OK, I'm intending to use the upper cowl as-molded horizontal as the split line. Note that I now reailize I have an older green cowl, not a pink cowl, however that might matter, I don't know the differences.
In basic the sequence I've used so far and will use from here, after reading about many examples of fitting up RV cowls is:
-Worked to get the front round opening to nest/mate between the upper and lower cowls
-Installed the spinner ring on the engine, set the upper cowl in place, located and held the front of the cowl 1/4" to the rear of the spinner, did the 2" measuring thing and trimmed the upper cowl to the firewall.
-From here I'll fit the lower cowl up to the upper cowl, do the 2" measuring thing and trim the bottom, refit it again and do the 2" measuring thing on the sides and trim them.
-Then install all of the Skybolt fasteners around the firewall and fit the upper and lower cowls to them.
-Then do the final work to cut the horizontal splitline, and install the Skybolt fasteners along it. The horizontal split will be the last big cut.
-Then any other fiberglas work needed to make everything look good
AC.

My Question to Van's support was:

"Gentlemen,
It appears to me, that the as-molded horizontal split line of the green upper fiberglas cowl, is meant to be the final split line between the two halves.
There is a well defined added trimline on the lower cowl that can be marked and cut to match the top cowl, once the two halves are located and fitted at the firewall.
There isn't any direct reference to using the as-molded horizontal edge of the upper cowl as the split line, in the Van's instructions. It's straight as received and looks like the intended split.
Is this what Van's intends?
The pictures show the initial fitting, the upper cowl half horizontal split has not been trimmed from the as-received molding, and the lower cowl is tucked under it at this point. I don't see why I don't use the upper cowl horizontal as the split line, and trim the lower to it. This is an older kit, that I bought from a previous builder, I believe the cowl to be from 2005.
Tnx,"

Van's Response:

"Hi Andy,
It might work as a horizontal split line. But normally, you will end up sanding the upper and lower cowling to get a good fit along a line of your choosing. Unfortunately, there really aren't any shortcuts here.
If you think the existing edge will work for you (and it is flat and straight!), you could certainly go for it.
Best Regards,
Builder Support
Van's Aircraft, Inc."