Pictures

You can view the pictures if you right click on the X and then hit properties. copy and paste the URL that appears in the properties box into your browser. You can then select a slide show from flicker to see all 3 pictures.
 
don't worry - I did something much more stupid and had much worse damage :eek:

I talked to Vans, make a cool doubler angle (not a plate), and now it is fixed, stronger than original, and impossible to detect!

Good Luck!
 
Looks like it's in the flange not the web. I'd just build on but include a peek at it in the annual inspection.
 
Best to check w Vans

Thinair - -

Although the advice you get here is excellent, this is a situation best remedied with an e-mail to Vans.

A while back, I managed to put a teensy split in a VS spar flange dimple hole. I was worried that I might have to order a do-over HS spar (which already had a few dozen rivets in place). I sent an e-mail to Van's and their solution was pretty simple... I put in a doubler using tank sealant and a blind rivet.

Don't go by what they told me, your situation is different, and there is no such thing as an unimportant spar.

Good luck resolving the spar cracks.
 
Integrity of the spar....

Rivethead said:
Looks like it's in the flange not the web. I'd just build on but include a peek at it in the annual inspection.
Click to expand...

The flange and the web together make up the equivalent of a sort of "I" beam.

The flange is just as important, if not more important, structurally as the web. The center of the web has little load on it, and is often cut away with lightening holes.

The flange is seriously compromised and not fulfilling it's design... definitely call Vans on this one. A doubler angle will probably be the correct solution.

When structural elements are compromised, "build on" is not the correct answer....:rolleyes:

gil A
 
How close to the wing tip is this damage? The loads on the spar flange are highest near the wing root, and they decrease towards the wing tip.

The advice to talk to Van's is spot on. Their engineers know what strength is required, and can do the analysis to design an adequate repair. Everyone here is just guessing.
 
Kevin Horton said:
How close to the wing tip is this damage? The loads on the spar flange are highest near the wing root, and they decrease towards the wing tip.

The advice to talk to Van's is spot on. Their engineers know what strength is required, and can do the analysis to design an adequate repair. Everyone here is just guessing.
Click to expand...

I agree I would call vans for a fix everyone here is just guessing
 
Spar damage

Thank you to all that have replied. I have contacted Vans and am waiting for an answer.

The damage is about 5 feet from the inboard end of the spar.
 
Rear spar damage

It looks like I will be fabricating an angle from .040 thick 2024-T3 material. See below...

Response from Ken at Vans:

Good news...you don't need to scrap your rear spar but you definitely need
to do a repair.

Repair: Fabricate an angle from .040 thick 2024-T3 material. The bend
angle must match that of the spar flange.

The leg of the angle that will mate-up to the damaged area on the spar
flange must be the same height as the spar flange (or maybe overhanging
by 1/16) and the other leg of the angle must be high enough to allow one
row of rivets to be installed through the repair angle and the spar web and
have sufficient edge distance for 1/8 inch rivets.

The repair angle length must be such that it shares at least 2 rivets inboard
of the damaged area and at least 2 rivets outboard of the damaged area. I
would try to grab 3 rivets each direction of the damage if possible...4 rivets
each direction would be overkill.

Use one row of 1/8 inch rivets spaced approximately 1 inch apart to attach
the repair angle to the spar web. Use the existing skin to spar attach holes
to attach the repair angle to the spar web.

Please get back to me if you cannot achieve this repair because the
damage is less than two rivets from a rib, thus making the required repair
angle length impossible to achieve without modification to a rib.
 
Follow Van's instructions, with the following additional item that was not mentioned. Blend smooth the damage to get rid of any sharp edge.
Greg.
 
rivetshaver said:
Follow Van's instructions, with the following additional item that was not mentioned. Blend smooth the damage to get rid of any sharp edge.
Greg.
Click to expand...
Yes indeed. I would also think it good practice to drill a small relief hole at each damaged end to help prevent "potential" cracks from developing and "potentially" migrating hither and yon. Perhaps they thought the extra step unnecessary or merely overlooked mentioning it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.