[N941WR]

Could someone tell me the correct length for the RV-9 flap pushrod?

Drawing 33 gives the length of the flap push rod for the -7 but not the -9. It also lists the distance between bearings which does me no good since the bearings are in the plane at the hanger and my pushrod is in my basement. That and I can?t take those bearings out w/o removing the flap torque tube.

Thanks!

 

[IowaRV9Dreamer]

flap pushrod

Hi Bill - my preview plans (dwg 33) has:

APPROX. (6/5/8) RV-7 & RV-9 BEARING CENTER TO BEARING CENTER. CHANGE PUSHROOD LENGTH AS REQ'D TO OPTAIN FLAP TRAVEL CALLED OUT IN MANUAL."

It appears the only difference between RV-7 and RV-9 (at least on this revision of plans) is the materal of the rod itself. The RV-7 uses F-759A (round) and the RV-9 uses VA-256 (hex).

Hope this helps,

 

[tc1234c]

Dave is correct about the 6 5/8" center-to-center length. I don't remember the bearing dimension and cannot help on the exact length to cut. However, the thread on the bearing is quite long and you will need to adjust them in and out the rod to ensure the proper center-to-center length. Notice that the drawing says approximately 6 5/8". Don't cut the rod until you have the bearings in hand. When you cut, keep in mind that you have to be able to adjust the center-to-center length both shorter and longer than 6 5/8". The final length is set on the plane. With someone pushing the flap up, you use try-and-error method to fit the bearing and insert the bolt thru flap actuator ends and the bearing. You will use a smart tool to set the up-flap angle (same as the wing incidence angle) and make sure both flaps have the same angle. If not set right, you will have a heavy wing.

 

[Rupester]

Also note that the threaded hex piece must be substantially reduced in length to to get the 6 5/8" overall dimension. You need to cut off BOTH ends, otherwise you won't have any internal threads left on one end.

Rupester
RV-9A QB fuse almost complete

 

[bruceh]

Also note that the threaded hex piece must be substantially reduced in length to to get the 6 5/8" overall dimension. You need to cut off BOTH ends, otherwise you won't have any internal threads left on one end.

The threaded portion on both ends is about 3" deep. I cut off 1 3/8" from one end and had no problem getting full depth for the threaded end of the rod end bearing. But you are right, it is probably better to trim both ends equally.