[flyingbeaver26]

Here are a couple of pictures of my 4-pipe system in my -8. The exhaust is very nice quality. Having a little welding experience myself, I'd say these welds are flawless. My question is: I'm about to cut the steel support tube to length to support the lower half of the exhaust. Before I cut, I wanted to ask the forum to see if my placement looks to be acceptable. The 4-pipe system only comes with one strut to vertically support the two pipes. Thanks for your feedback.
-Brad

 

[Special Delivery]

Support attach point

You may want to reconsider using the engine mount to support the exhaust pipes. Supporting the exhaust from the engine might be a better method, but check with Vetterman for his recommendation.

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:RV7A 4 pipe

Hi Ernie

I have the 4 pipe on my RV7A and the recommended procedure was to use the provided fastners, which use the motor mount tubes as secure points.
Haven't flown yet...but Larry Vetterman told me he uses the four pipe set up on his plane.

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting still.....looking for some warmer weather!!!!

 

[cdmiller]

I used the sump bolts

I recommend using the rear sump bolt(s) to support the exhaust pipes. That way the exhaust and engine move together but the exhaust is still supported. I supported the two-pipe Vetterman exhaust from the sump bolts in my RV-8 and that has worked very well for more than 500 hours. Supporting the exhaust pipes from the engine mount as you have illustrated will put a lot of stress on the exhaust system whenever the engine shakes during start up and shutdown.

Dan

RV-8 530+ hours

 

[Bob Axsom]

What does the front end look like

I am considering a different arangemant than the "cross-over two pipe" that I have on my RV-6A and this may satisfy my needs. If it eliminates the crossover and can bbe routed straight back without having to come inboard where the current cooling air outlet is located it would be ideal. Do you have photos of the rest of the pipe routing?

Bob Axsom

 

[flyingbeaver26]

I am considering a different arangemant than the "cross-over two pipe" that I have on my RV-6A and this may satisfy my needs. If it eliminates the crossover and can bbe routed straight back without having to come inboard where the current cooling air outlet is located it would be ideal. Do you have photos of the rest of the pipe routing?

Bob Axsom

Bob, I took some aditional pictures for you last night. -Brad Vier

 

[frazitl]

My 7A Vetterman 4 pipe system

included two rubber "donuts" to be placed in the mounting straps between the motor mount and the pipes. I too would be concerned about mounting the end of the pipes to the motor mount, and the flange of the pipes to the engine. Too much relative movement for me.

 

[Mike S]

The two pieces of metal tubing you show in the first photos are joined by a short piece of rubber hose, correct??

This will allow movement between the pipe/engine assembly, and the mount.

I would cut the tubes a bit shorter, leave a half inch gap or so when inserted into the rubber tube----will allow more freedom of motion if the ends of the metal tube dont bump into each other.

Good luck.

 

[Bubblehead]

included two rubber "donuts" to be placed in the mounting straps between the motor mount and the pipes. I too would be concerned about mounting the end of the pipes to the motor mount, and the flange of the pipes to the engine. Too much relative movement for me.

Any pictures of the donuts or a scan of the drawing from Larry? I've installed an AWI 4-into-1 and am not satisfied with the way I've supported the rear of the exhaust.

 

[frazitl]

I'll take and post some photos tomorrow. Larry's drawing is not his best work (but the pipes are beautiful!).

 

[David-aviator]

Larry tested this system quite extensively and the instructions say to mount the pipe holding brackets as close to the firewall as possible. I have mine suspended to the engine mount with 2 hangers with each pipe bracket and about an inch of rubber hose between the tubes. It seems quite secured for now, will post a couple images later this week.

 

[frazitl]

OK here are the donuts, remember this is a 7A, but

This is what the Vetterman supplied donut looks like:

Installed this way, slightly different that what Larry suggests, but only in terms of the attach to the motor mount:

left side view looking right.

 

[Rick6a]

DATA POINT: Upon close FWF inspection following the very first engine start on the new IO-360-M1B fitted with Vetterman exhaust, the subsequent squawk was duly noted: The inappropriately sized adel clamp I installed to secure the engine mount and exhaust system managed to work its way up the engine mount causing the steel support tubes to separate from the rubber joint. SOLUTION: I replaced the adel clamp with the next smaller size clamp.

There is a significant amount of independent motion relative to the engine and its fixed mount. I am not that all that confident with the geometry of the present set up. Until reading this thread, was unaware of the donut option now being offered. Offering improved mounting seems to make perfect sense because the donut arrangement seems to directly address the squawk following the first engine run in N308R.

 

[flyingbeaver26]

adel clamp? does color mater?

The inappropriately sized adel clamp I installed to secure the engine mount and exhaust system managed to work its way up the engine mount causing the steel support tubes to separate from the rubber joint. SOLUTION: I replaced the adel clamp with the next smaller size clamp.

Rick, Thanks for the heads up on the adel clamp. I noticed that mine is not completely snug either. I'll switch it out to the next smaller size.
Question: Does the color of adel clamp have anything to do with the heat it can withstand? Do I need to source a smaller size of white adel clamps? or will the black ones work just the same?

Different question: on my exhaust, pipes 1 & 3 just barely touch down where the ball joint is. I'm guessing I should have a 1/4" between the pipes minimum at all places. How should I go about makeing modifications to prevent them from touching? Since the contact is at the ball joint, swiveling the ball joint around won't help. Any sugestions?

-Brad Vier
rv-8 FWF

 

[petercavallo]

Pipe Support

Here are a couple of pictures of my 4-pipe system in my -8. The exhaust is very nice quality. Having a little welding experience myself, I'd say these welds are flawless. My question is: I'm about to cut the steel support tube to length to support the lower half of the exhaust. Before I cut, I wanted to ask the forum to see if my placement looks to be acceptable. The 4-pipe system only comes with one strut to vertically support the two pipes. Thanks for your feedback.
-Brad

Hi Brad,
Be sure to put some space between the tubes so the Rubber tube can do its work. I put a bead on the tubes so when I clamped it stopped slipping.
Mount the Exhaust to the Engine so it moves with the Engine ( Larry has some nice 4130 little brackets he sells. I have a RV6 with a 4 pipe system, and have been through several mods in the first 100 hours (you will not like Pipe #1 ratteling around in your cowl it vibrates alot) , email me if you need more info ( PS the Stainless pipes are hard to bead go slow)
Peter

 

[Bwing96]

Exhaust Hanger

I have a 4 pipe system on my RV-6 and I need the part of the hanger that lays on top of the exhaust pipe. Can't seem to locate this part can someone point me in the right direction.

It's actually seen better in the post above this one. It is just a small flat piece with a bolt hole in the center that is welded to two curved pieces that lay against the top of the exhaust pipes.

Bob, I took some aditional pictures for you last night. -Brad Vier

 

[Robert Anglin]

Mercedes is good.

The donut that is shown comes from and is used on a long line of Mercedes, yes it is used to hang mufflers and pipes. What we try to do is reach up to the rear pan or sump bolts and make a small bracket to bolt up with them. this lets the engine and pipes move as one. We then trim the small support tubes to be within 3/8 or so of an inch to the ends of one another. When the hose is put on and clamped, it acts as a shock absorber, but does not have to fight the movement of the engine as much. You will be fine with either but the latter will last longer.. Yours as always R.E.A. III #80888

 

[fixnflyguy]

What I did

I have the 4 pipe system on my -4 which would be pretty much the same set-up. I eliminated any support to the mount or airframe ( not to contradict anyone) and made supports that go from the pipe joiners (left and right support brackets) up to the rear sump corner bolts. I fabricated them from 3/8 stainless tubing threaded for Hiem ball joint rod ends that bolt to stainless steel tabs bent to the angle of the rod. I don't use any rubber in my mount. This keeps the system fairly ridged and moving with the engine, but never hits the cowl or airframe. So far, 200 hrs and no cracks or loosening of anything.

 

[Toobuilder]

I too use a rigid connection to support the collector on my exhaust. And I agree that you need to attach to the engine rather than the mount or airframe. There is just too much relative movement to do otherwise. My support is simply some 3/8 tube flattened at both ends and drilled for a bolt. The bolts are slightly loose and allow for some swivel action, but will fully support the weight of the pipes. 400+ hours, no issues yet.

 

[A5555]

slight flare on the exhaust mount tubes?

I put a slight flare on the exhaust mount tube ends. I don't know the value but it seemed to be in the direction of goodness. 25 hr. and no movement in this tubes.