[mike newall]

I have just received my RV8 QB kit - all very nice, however when I look at other guys sites, the rear upper structure - turtle deck is assembled on the airplane.

On ours it is a loose panel and a load of formers..........

Any ideas if Vans have changed the kit or did I get stiffed ?

I emailed Barb today and will post any info.

 

[APACHE 56]

Not to worry....

Any ideas if Vans have changed the kit or did I get stiffed

You have a lot to do before you fab/install your turtle deck. Scan the pages of your builders book prior to the turtle deck.

 

[Danny7]

vans changed the kit, if you look up hte doug reeve videos of jay pratt/ rv central they talk about it. it makes it a lot easier for you to do work on the inside of the fuse, so its better for you

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EP7_1Z3e4Kg&feature=related

 

[Jaypratt]

BETTER!!

Yep the -1 RV8 kits make your build a lot easer, with that rear top skin off. There is a lot more done in other parts.
You have a lot of the interior floor done that was not done in the -nothing kits.
If you hate it send it over here,, I would like to build another one for me

 

[mike newall]

Aaahhhhhhhhhhh - that explains it - thanks Jay and - No, I won't send it over

You are right - getting that baggage floor out after the Philipinos had mashed it in was rather interesting.

I like the access panels - may sneak a couple in.

 

[DanH]

Yeah, and if you go fastback you need not drill out a few hundred rivets.

 

[mike newall]

That makes it a thin 7 doesn't it ?

 

[klovning]

Not all that easy

Yeah, and if you go fastback you need not drill out a few hundred rivets.

As far as I can tell the showplanes people didn't modifiy their kit at all for the -1 kit ... My edge distance on the bulkheads (the interface of the top portion and the bottom portion of the ring requring 4- rivets) was not good - I had to build doublers.

The 802 bulkhead caps also have egde distance problems (you trim the bulheads to fit the new cockpit rails) as there are pre drilled holes, several of which you have to drill a second hole right next to - I had to build doublers for this as well....

The rear seat needs to be modified too. when I didn't understand what I should do.... (because the plans don't mention ANYTHING about it.)

>Jason,
>If you are working on a -1 fuse the angle at the top of the seat back (not
>sure of part #) needs to be trimmed off. This will allow the 833cfb to fit
>behind the seat back aluminum, then rivet a new angle of same thickness to
>the back side of the 833cfb. This seems to have worked for others.
>Bryan

my response to this......

Use a 11 blade to make a curvilinear incision just below the umbilicus. Grasp the umbilical stalk with two curved Kocher clamps. Use elctrocautery to enter the peritoneum. Secure a Hassan trochar in using 0 PDS. Using a 5mm, 0 degree lparoscope place 2 additional 5mm trochars in the midline. Grasp the appendix with a prestige ratcheting grasper. Make a wrent in the mesoappendix using a Maryland dissector. Use a 45mm endocorporeal stapler with a white vascular load to take the appendiceal artery. Use a blue staple load to take the base of the appendix. Remove the specimen using an endocatch bag. Sew up the fascia using a 0 PDS and the skin with 4-0 vicryl.

It may also help to airplane the patinet 30 degees to the left and place them in Trendellenburg.

This seems to have worked for others.

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Remember, when explaining things to others, just because its simple/trivial to you doesn't mean it will be simple/trivial for someone else.