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ILikePike

Well Known Member
I am installing my IO-360-M1B, vans FWF with Hartzell prop. What would you have done differently or what mistakes should I watch out for?
 
The only thing I would have done differently is to put the heat/fire material on the firewall first.

Think long and hard about cable brackets for the mixture, prop, and throttle.
Don
 
FWF pics

I took a bunch of FWF pictures at Oshkosh and posted them here: http://www.rv8.ch/zenphoto/oshkosh-2011/

Perhaps you can get some hints from some of them. Sorry I don't have any commentary on these pictures.

The only advice I have to offer at this time is to try to build it as close to what Van's recommends as possible, assuming you have the standard Lycoming engine.
 
I would do the insulation.
I would plan for inverted oil, even if I did not plan to put it in. I would arrange things on the firewall to support the installation..
 
RV-8 advice.

Not a big thing. I would make the firewall penetration for fuel supply to engine driven pump higher than portrayed on the plans. This will make it easier to get an upward flow path from pump/filter to the firewall penetration. It was marginal for my install with Lyc IO-360M1A. Good luck and have fun!
 
Add More Heat

If you are in a cool climate - ad a 2nd heat muff and firewall penetration from the start.

I have this engine but a Whirlwind prop - can send pictures if you want, PM if you do.
 
More specific questions

1. Where and how to mount the red cube?
2. Best way to protect the throttle cable from exhaust heat?
3. The fuel line from engine pump to servo is close to exhaust. Solutions/pics?
4. Best Vetterman hangar configuration?
5. Heat muff location and rotation, SCAT routing?

Anybody got any input, opinions, or pics?

Thanks
 
ILikePike said:
1. Where and how to mount the red cube?
2. Best way to protect the throttle cable from exhaust heat?
3. The fuel line from engine pump to servo is close to exhaust. Solutions/pics?
4. Best Vetterman hangar configuration?
5. Heat muff location and rotation, SCAT routing?

Anybody got any input, opinions, or pics?

Thanks
Click to expand...

1. For fuel injection, between the servo and flow divider. For carbureted, between fuel pump and carb. You can mount with adel clamps to oil tube on top of engine for FI. On lower engine mount bar for carbureted engine.

2. Wrap with fire shield and provide a blast tube to force cool air through the fire shield.

3. Heat shield between exhaust and fuel line wrapped in fire shield should do.

4. Just let it flex slightly with rubber mounts, but not enough to hit cowling. Adel clamps will slip on engine mount once oil gets on them. Wrap mount with silicone tape before installing clamps or put a SS hose clamp on either side of adel clamp to keep it from sliding.

5. Anywhere it will fit. Put heat valve on one side or other to avoid scat tube interference with rudder pedals. Consider 1 1/2 inch scat tube. It takes lots less room and will give you plenty of air/heat volume. You can get a heat muff with 1 1/2 - inch flanges and converting a heater box to that size is easy enough if you can't find one on the market.
 
I have a similar setup with my A1A and hartzell. I have inverted oil too.

I would have put on another muff, as suggested above and installed the engine preheat stuff.

I didn't do insulation, which hasn't been a big deal up in Ohio.
 
firewall mounting of....

I have my oil cooler (a big one) mounted on the firewall, and I definitely would do it again, but probably in a different place on the firewall.

I have my battery in the back, and I think for most RV-8's that is the best choice, BUT, I am contemplating a modification that would benefit from putting the battery on the firewall, so, I wish in hindsight that I had made provisions for both.

I wish I had made allowance for inverted oil, even if I didn't put it in.

Make a provision for running an electrical harness across the top of the firewall, supported with 3 or so Adel clamps. You can bring all the engine sensor wiring (thermocouples, and sensor leads) through the firewall in one place, then divide into left and right side. The bundle that is crosses to the other side of the engine can be all bundled together and wrapped in a big shrink tube, then supported as it runs across the firewall to the other side.

The best Vetterman support arrangement uses the hangers attached to the rear corners of the sump, not to the engine mount. This allows the engine and exhaust to move as a unit without strain.

See my old post on a simple modification to Vans prop governor bracket that makes it much easier to install and set up.
 
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