Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
I guess four days traveling in the airplane didn't fill me up! Since I had planned a weather contingency day into my schedule, my Outlook calender showd me with no plans at the office today, so I figured I'd play hooky and get to work on the AlTrak installation. I'd gone over it many times in my head, and I pretty much had it figured out - but still only got about 80% done in a ten-hour workday. Of course, I was doing an oil change and FWF inspection in the morning as well....

I'm done except for installing and wiring the light/switch on the panel and hooking up the power. I went with Stein's suggestion of mounting the little bitty "brain box" back near the servo, and he was right - it makes the wiring and installation easier! A few notes:

1) Replacing the elevator bellcrank mount took about an hour (after a half hour of disassembling the baggage compartment and removing the battery and battery tray/relay assembly). I decided to replace the rivets with #8 screws and locknuts, as it would be awfully tough to re-rivet the things. If you are building, and there is even the most remote possibility you'll add a pitch servo - scar for it now!

2) One advantage to doing screws was that drilling the holes was easier. After drillign out the old mounts, I held them together, and the holes matched really, really close, so I used them as drill templates (right on left, left on right) for the new mounts. I just cleco-clamped them together, drilled two holes, put in clecoes, then drilled the rest. Once I had them clecoed in the airplane, I match-drilled the holes to final size for the screws - worked great! I used countersunk screws under the servo, as it looked like pan-heads would interfere. I thought getting the nuts on would be tough, but it wasn't too bad - just a few hand cramps!

3) The drawings give good dimensions for drilling the hole to mount the new pushrod, but they are vague on mounting hardware, washers etc. Everything you need comes with the kit, but they assume that if you've built an airplane, you know enough to figure out how the little bits should go together. If you're doing this early in your own build, you might want to look at someone's installation to see where capture washers go. It all set up real nice, and is not even close to an over-center situation. I was also impressed that, like the aileron servo, you can't feel any drag when it is powered off. Seems like you would, when you move the servo arm by hand, but I guess leverage plays into it.

4) I mounted the brain box on the fuselage bulkhead, facing aft. this made the wiring very easy, and access is good (just remove the baggage compartment). During checkout, they tell you to move it by hand to make sure things are moving in the right directions, and this location makes it easy to unscrew and do that.

5) I ran my wiring alongside the static lines - up the left side under the main longeron until the flap actuator compartment, then down under the fixed floor (I rivetted mine per plans), then through the main spar with some other wiring. Sounds easy - it wasn't! That took about three hours. Still, it was a lot less than it would have been to put nutplates in for those aft floors, and remove all those screws....Hey, everyone makes up their own mind on that one! I found that a piece of 040 safety wire makes a pretty good wire "snake" - just use mirrors and flashlights to help guide it through each part in turn. My wiring only has five conductors going forward to the light, plus one for power. The five are in a cable, and that was fine, until I got to the spar. I just couldn't get the cable to go through the opening I had, so I slit open the last six inches, and fished the conductors through one at time, then was able to pull the rest of the cable through. I quit for the night with it in the left gear tower. Next work session, I'll pull the panel and finish up.

6) This was the first time I'd had the forward floor and baggage compartment out since the DAR inspection last Ocober, and with 150 hours on it, I figured it was a good time to do a mini-inspection. No suprises - no wear point,s all wires still secured, and all control fasteners still like they were when Mel looked them over.

I'm looking forward to finishing this thing up some evening this week, and giving it a try! It really was fun to be doign some building and fabricatign again (but really nice to know that the airplane is still flyable!) The biggest design problem I had was figuring out where to put the button on the panel...I guess the compass correction card is going to have to find a different home... :p

I hate having my plane in an "unflyable" condition - it just makes me nervous knowing that I can't go get a flying fix - so I worked hard to get the interior back together and the new wires coiled up neatly before I left for the night. I could fly it in the morning if I wanted...nah - gotta go to work sometime!

Paul
 
Paul,
Thanks for the detailed report. I'm getting ready to do the same thing in my -6....and it really helped. Keep the reports comming please.
Bob Martin
RV-6
 
Pictures, yeah....well, I would have, but my good camera was still sitting on my desk at home because I hadn't downloaded last weekend's trip pictures, and my shop camera (at the hangar) seems to have gone into some kind of electronic coma...

I'll try to remember to take the good camera tomorrow before closing it all up.

Paul
 
I would change one thing with the Altrak installation. I think the instructions call for the ALT botton itself to wire to a 470 Ohm resistor to dim the switch. I found this too bright even for day flying. At night it would blind you. I installed a 38k (kilo) Ohm resistor in mine and it is much better. The green is still VERY visible in the day but tolerable at night.

Steve
RV7A #2



Ironflight said:
I guess four days traveling in the airplane didn't fill me up! Since I had planned a weather contingency day into my schedule, my Outlook calender showd me with no plans at the office today, so I figured I'd play hooky and get to work on the AlTrak installation. I'd gone over it many times in my head, and I pretty much had it figured out - but still only got about 80% done in a ten-hour workday. Of course, I was doing an oil change and FWF inspection in the morning as well....

I'm done except for installing and wiring the light/switch on the panel and hooking up the power. I went with Stein's suggestion of mounting the little bitty "brain box" back near the servo, and he was right - it makes the wiring and installation easier! A few notes:

1) Replacing the elevator bellcrank mount took about an hour (after a half hour of disassembling the baggage compartment and removing the battery and battery tray/relay assembly). I decided to replace the rivets with #8 screws and locknuts, as it would be awfully tough to re-rivet the things. If you are building, and there is even the most remote possibility you'll add a pitch servo - scar for it now!

2) One advantage to doing screws was that drilling the holes was easier. After drillign out the old mounts, I held them together, and the holes matched really, really close, so I used them as drill templates (right on left, left on right) for the new mounts. I just cleco-clamped them together, drilled two holes, put in clecoes, then drilled the rest. Once I had them clecoed in the airplane, I match-drilled the holes to final size for the screws - worked great! I used countersunk screws under the servo, as it looked like pan-heads would interfere. I thought getting the nuts on would be tough, but it wasn't too bad - just a few hand cramps!

3) The drawings give good dimensions for drilling the hole to mount the new pushrod, but they are vague on mounting hardware, washers etc. Everything you need comes with the kit, but they assume that if you've built an airplane, you know enough to figure out how the little bits should go together. If you're doing this early in your own build, you might want to look at someone's installation to see where capture washers go. It all set up real nice, and is not even close to an over-center situation. I was also impressed that, like the aileron servo, you can't feel any drag when it is powered off. Seems like you would, when you move the servo arm by hand, but I guess leverage plays into it.

4) I mounted the brain box on the fuselage bulkhead, facing aft. this made the wiring very easy, and access is good (just remove the baggage compartment). During checkout, they tell you to move it by hand to make sure things are moving in the right directions, and this location makes it easy to unscrew and do that.

5) I ran my wiring alongside the static lines - up the left side under the main longeron until the flap actuator compartment, then down under the fixed floor (I rivetted mine per plans), then through the main spar with some other wiring. Sounds easy - it wasn't! That took about three hours. Still, it was a lot less than it would have been to put nutplates in for those aft floors, and remove all those screws....Hey, everyone makes up their own mind on that one! I found that a piece of 040 safety wire makes a pretty good wire "snake" - just use mirrors and flashlights to help guide it through each part in turn. My wiring only has five conductors going forward to the light, plus one for power. The five are in a cable, and that was fine, until I got to the spar. I just couldn't get the cable to go through the opening I had, so I slit open the last six inches, and fished the conductors through one at time, then was able to pull the rest of the cable through. I quit for the night with it in the left gear tower. Next work session, I'll pull the panel and finish up.

6) This was the first time I'd had the forward floor and baggage compartment out since the DAR inspection last Ocober, and with 150 hours on it, I figured it was a good time to do a mini-inspection. No suprises - no wear point,s all wires still secured, and all control fasteners still like they were when Mel looked them over.

I'm looking forward to finishing this thing up some evening this week, and giving it a try! It really was fun to be doign some building and fabricatign again (but really nice to know that the airplane is still flyable!) The biggest design problem I had was figuring out where to put the button on the panel...I guess the compass correction card is going to have to find a different home... :p

I hate having my plane in an "unflyable" condition - it just makes me nervous knowing that I can't go get a flying fix - so I worked hard to get the interior back together and the new wires coiled up neatly before I left for the night. I could fly it in the morning if I wanted...nah - gotta go to work sometime!

Paul
 
Thanks for the resistor note Steve - someone else mentioned the same thing to me, and I had forgotten - it is not too late for me to change the resistor, so I think I'll do that!

Paul
 
Finished and Tested!

I finished up the Altrak Installation this afternoon, and took it for a quick checkout flight to see how it works. As I expected (from everyone's comments), it performed exactly as promised, holding altitude nicley whenever I pushed the button. It plays well with the Pictorial Pilot, and I am going to be a lot more comfortable filing IFR now that I can let the airplane fly itself for a little while as I manage the big picture.

Final installation was pretty simple. All I needed to do was pull the panel, drill a 5/8" hole for the switch/indicator, route the new wires up alongside those for the Pictorial Pilot (because they share several interconnects), and do a little soldering and cabling. The AlTrak button fit nicely above my trim indicators (once I moved the compass card),and is a nice "left handed" control, so that I can keep my hand on the stick while I fine-tune the altitude and engage.

Before the flight test, I tried all the combinations of engaging and disengaing the Altrak and Pictorial Pilot that I could think of - one first, both together, one disengaged first, etc. I also practiced over-riding both servos, as well as finding and pulling the circuit breaker while manually over-riding them! In flight, I ran through a similar sequence, just to make sure that everything was flyable, and contingencies were easy to handle.

If I were to do it again, I would definitely scar the airplane with the appropriate wiring while still under construction. It really wasn't that hard to predict that I woudl be adding one, sooner or later...And I'm still sore from pulling wires the other day!

I did put in a larger resisitor (I had a 20K on hand), to knock down the brightness, as suggested by several folks. Tru-Trak does suggest either a switched pair of resistors, or a pot for dimming as an option.

The only thing that surprised me about the operation may be related to my choice of a stick switch. Instead of a momentary switch, I have a "push on/push off (latching)" switch. This way, I can kill that autopilot from the stick, and not have to hold the button. With this config, and the two units, I found that you can't engage the AlTrak until the Pictorial Pilot is engaged (and the instructions say this), but once they are both engaged, you can disengage the P/P, and the Altitude Hold stays on. I didn't expect this, but I like it, as I can hold altitude while accepting vectors if I need to use control stick steering for the heading changes. I'd be interested to know if other installations work the same way, or if I invented a new "feature". :rolleyes:

All in all, I'm very pleased with both units, and combined with the GRT EFIS, they really give me a capable machine! :D

(Pictures of the servo installation when I can get them off my camera...)

Paul
 
Picture

OK, here is one shot which shows pretty much all of the interesting stuff. (I don't consider the wire runs or switch particularly interesting, after spending about 8 hours of pain getting them done!)

pitchautopilot5rs.jpg


A couple of points:

1) You can see that I didn't try to re-rivet the bellcrank mount arms - just drilled them for screws. Plenty stron!

2) I hadn't safety-wired the servo-mounting bolts yet - did that after the picture-taking reminded me!

3) You can see the little "brain box" on the upper right side of the picture.

4) The battery negative cale doesn't actually touch the rudder cable - that's a picture-angle illusion - it clears by a couple inches! :p

Total installation time was about 14 hours, start to finish. Lots of time removing floor and baggage compartment screws...and then replacing them!

Paul
 
Paul,

Once again great infomation and you have continued to increase my level of envy. I can't wait to see your paint scheme!

I'm finally to a point where I can resume building on my empennage (moving took longer to straighten out than I anticipated).


Donald
RV-8 Empannage
N-2845DP Reserved