Good work on the drill-out and re-rivets. I had to drill a few out myself, and I am not much farther ahead of you.

I noticed that you haven't notched the rear spar underneath the HS-411PP center bearing/hinge. On the plans, you will notice a hatched area right under that bearing where it instructs us to notch this part of the flange out (but not touching the HS-609PP reinforcement bars).
i8ICF0kl.jpg


I had to go back and trim mine after I had riveted the rear spar together, so its not as nice and clean as I'd like, but I think it will be OK. I included some drilled holes for reliefs. You can see it on my blog:

http://theskunkwerx.com/rv7/dimpling-the-right-horizontal-stabilizer/

I just had to rough guess the length of the cuts based on the drawing and relation to the holes. It refers us to DWG 27A but I could not find any measurements there.

And here is a large photo before I cleaned it up a little:
https://theskunkwerx.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/IMG_0716.jpg

I also am not sure that is even correct to do this at this stage, but I went ahead and did it while the spar was easy to access.
 
Thank you!

Hey Andrew great work on these videos...

Lynn I also enjoy reading your posts!

Looks like the three of us started about the same time. I am behind already mainly because I have been trying for 5 weeks to get a ******* primer!

Anyhow keep up the good work. I have been inspired by you guys to make some videos while I wait for primer...
 
I'm right behind you guys as well. Riveted the rear spar and am starting on the front spar now. I also have NOT notched the rear spar yet--was planning to wait until later on in the build, when the measurements of the cut might be more obvious. I plan to do it without touching HS-609PP by very lightly going back and forth with a Dremel.

Side note: it was surprising how little torque 25 in-lbs is, for the nuts on the bolts attaching the bearing assembly. I'm used to just gorilla-arming nuts and bolts (on my non-airplane projects) and I had to double check that I couldn't actually finger-untighten a 25 in-lb nut!

EDIT: While typing that last part, I am reminded that I neglected to apply torque seal to those nuts. Will make a note to myself to do so before continuing with the build. Amazing how the act of writing about what you're doing helps you to review the work and double-check completeness.
 
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CubedRoot said:
Good work on the drill-out and re-rivets. I had to drill a few out myself, and I am not much farther ahead of you.

I noticed that you haven't notched the rear spar underneath the HS-411PP center bearing/hinge. On the plans, you will notice a hatched area right under that bearing where it instructs us to notch this part of the flange out (but not touching the HS-609PP reinforcement bars).
i8ICF0kl.jpg


I had to go back and trim mine after I had riveted the rear spar together, so its not as nice and clean as I'd like, but I think it will be OK. I included some drilled holes for reliefs. You can see it on my blog:

http://theskunkwerx.com/rv7/dimpling-the-right-horizontal-stabilizer/

I just had to rough guess the length of the cuts based on the drawing and relation to the holes. It refers us to DWG 27A but I could not find any measurements there.

And here is a large photo before I cleaned it up a little:
https://theskunkwerx.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/IMG_0716.jpg

I also am not sure that is even correct to do this at this stage, but I went ahead and did it while the spar was easy to access.
Click to expand...

good call! Thanks didn't notice at all.
 
I just rough guessed where it'd be by looking at where the hatch area was on the plans compared to the rivet holes. I could not find any measurements anywhere.
 
If you look at drawing 5 detail A (upper left) it shows a full scale view of the horns in position on the bracket. You could probably measure off of this drawing for a good clearance dimension. I'm just looking of my preview plans so can't tell you a dimension.
 
jcarne said:
If you look at drawing 5 detail A (upper left) it shows a full scale view of the horns in position on the bracket. You could probably measure off of this drawing for a good clearance dimension. I'm just looking of my preview plans so can't tell you a dimension.
Click to expand...

i believe this is what your talking about.



Looks like a notch the width of the bolts on the hinge will add about 1/4' on either side of the horn.
 
atalla said:
i believe this is what your talking about.



Looks like a notch the width of the bolts on the hinge will add about 1/4' on either side of the horn.
Click to expand...

I don't think it needs to be that much, all you are trying to clear is the horns themselves, the rod end will attach to the horns on the lower end. The empennage attach drawing shows a side view of the situation.

The red marks I put on your image is what needs to clear. I am thinking this dimension plus maybe an 1/8" on each side as the horns should not move side to side much.

Edit: After thinking about this a little more I think your original number of 1/4" is probably a better number considering we are talking about elevator deflection and the cost of this binding is high (even though it is a nose down position). Also the reinforcement bars are taking most of the load; taking a little more off of the spar channels shouldn't be a big deal.

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Awesome Thanks Jereme

BTW what image host are you using to get yours to show up big all mine does is thumbnails
 
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