W

wrgway

Member
Has anyone else had a problem with the canopy skirt rubbing on the fusealage when closing. If I leave it this way it's sure to rub the paint off in that area, so wondering how everyone else trims them. Plans don't make it clear where the skirt should intersect or touch the fuse..Help!!!

Don Riggs
 
Hi Don....

...on my -6A, the skirts only touch during the last 1/4" of movement, or thereabouts. I glued felt to the underside of the skirts to stop any rubbing. Others have used some of the clear teflon flap tape on the fuselage and only allow it to be exposed by an 1/8" or so.

Regards,
 
Whats under that skirt!!

As Pierre stated, there seem to be 2 ways to control the inevitable
rub. Clear UHMW tape along the side of the fuse, with only about an eighth exposed, or a felt on the inside of the skirt. I have both. I found that the "fuzzy" side of the Velcro strip with the adhesive backing is an absolutely perfect solution. I have it all the way around the perimeter of my glass epoxy one piece canopy skirt, and it seals like a refrigerator door. No paint scuffs yet, and it acts like a lubricant all around the skirt.

Hope this helps....
Chris
 
Is that on a finished plane?

My recommendation is not sweat the precise fit of the canopy till you're done and flying. The fit changes a little bit magically every time that thing comes on and off. Also, when you add weather stripping, the fitting will change a bit too.
 
Yes, the plane is finished and has a little over 60 hours on the clock. The problem is the canopy skirt is going to slide over an are that will be painted and the constant friction of that sliding contact is sure to mar the paint sooner or later.
Thanks for your input,

Don Riggs
 
I have no overhang on my RV-6A slider

I have a 3/16 bar stock aluminum rib that is double flush riveted to the side skirts 1/2" above the conopy deck that extends from the front to the rear of the side track extrusion. The rib conforms to the shape of the canopy deck outboard of the track. An over-wide black rubber sheet rib is cut for each side using the same pattern and they are glued to the bottom of the aluminum ribs and the inboard edge seals against the outboard edge of the roller track. Aft of the roller track I riveted a 1/16" thick 3/4"x3/4" aluminum angle to the top of the longeron to provide an inboard overlap instead of the hanging skag overlap on the outside. Soft white "P" strip from Aircraft Spruce is glued to the aft skirts and the rear few inches of the side skirt (aft of the roller track) with sufficient setback from the skirt edges to soft seal without deflecting the skirt from the fuselage skin to an objectionable extent. I use the same "P" strip material glued to the intersection of the roll bar and and the windshield fiberglass overhang flange that gets compressed when the canopy slides into place. On the leading edge of the sliding canopy I applied replaceable aluminum tape to cover the forward bow frame rivets and shims. In the rear I made a sliding plug of balsa wood covered with fiberglass and a lateral "p" strip to seal the center guide hole. The plug slides on the center track and it contains hook backed pull rings made of SS safety wire. The rings are connected to the aft canopy frame with two individually tied lengthsof nylon wire bundle lacing tape on each side. The length of the strings is such that the plug lays in a center aluminum cover/shroud installed at the intersection of the rear skirts when the "pull strings" are extended. Over 500 flight hours - perfect function and performance.

Bob Axsom
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.