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LarryT

Well Known Member
I just purchased a flying RV-6A after determining that I may never finish my -7 kit in my own lifetime. I have gotten no further on the RV7 than the empennage and wing kits, so I am not as knowledgeable as you folks who have built complete, flying airplanes. An advanced search did not help me much so I'm asking the questions directly.

1. No return springs on rudder pedals = normal? So the rudder cables have lots of slack until one's feet are on the pedals, correct?

2. Very light fuel seepage from sender cover on right wing. I haven't determined whether or not the cork gasket or pro-seal was used. Can I repair in the aircraft or is it easier to remove the tank? Is the removal similar to removing a Piper Cherokee tank (which I have done)?

3. There is a second, more significant fuel leak from the carburetor. Dripped out the drain hole drilled at the FAB low point. Uncowled the aircraft and removed the FAB. Turned on the boost pump and fuel came out of the carburetor throttle bore in a small stream as opposed to drips. Am I correct in suspecting that the float is stuck or sunk? By following posts there seems to the "flavor of the month" as far as carb floats are concerned. Could someone please opine about the correct float (Tempest epoxy?) and how difficult it is to overhaul the carb. 40 years ago I put myself through engineering school working as an auto mechanic, so I have overhauled automotive carburetors. I am, however, ignorant of the differences between a Marvel-Schebler and a Holley, Carter or Rochester and don't have an overhaul manual. Would I be better off paying the big bucks for a Tempest OH unit?

4. The K&N air filter was deliberately mishapened to avoid a protrusion on the bottom of the carb. Is this normal? Or did the previous owner install a filter that's slightly too small?

5. When this aircraft was only 30 hrs. old in 1997, it suffered a nose gear collapse. The logbook notes that the gear leg was replaced without noting the part number of the leg. The aircraft has since flown 400 hrs. I would like to update the nose gear to the most recent SB. Is there a way I can determine whether I have the -2 leg that can be modified or an earlier leg that needs to replaced with the latest version?

The plane flys really nice. It would be nice not to have these problems but I tried to be realistic and not spend every last dime on the purchase so I would have room for contingencies like the above.

Thank you all in advance for the benefit of your experience and good advice.

Larry Tompkins
 
1) No return springs are normal. Some add them later.
2) It will be easier to repair the sender gasket with the tank removed. It will take maybe an hour to remove the tank if you have a cordless screwgun. It is not worth the effort in my opinion to attempt to repair the gasket with the tank mounted unless the sender is held with bolts rather than screws. You can get a wrench on the bolts, but will catch the devil with screws.
 
Hi Larry....

.....and congrats on the buy!

It's easy to remove the float bowl and replace the float and needle assembly since you've been inside carbs before....no new ground to plow here.

We replaced the screws on the fuel sender cover with allen heads because of the tight quarters here and took ours off with the tank mounted...either way is fine. Let the gasket be sacrificial and just use proseal with no gasket on re-install. Mark the orientation of the float cover in relation to the big cover so that it's correct on replacement.

BTW, you've bought what I consider to be one of the best flying RV models.

Regards,
 
Some K&N filters needed to be reshaped or notched for the carb. Mine does not.

Van's came out with a (stronger) replacement gear leg around 1999/2000. I have a 1996 kit, and my nose gear leg was replaced. This newer leg works for the current S/B if it's shortened and re-threaded. Personally, I don't plan on doing this, any time soon.

You can get the gear leg info by looking up the SB's on Van's web site. They have the dimensions of the old and newer types.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
More questions

For Pierre:

I take it you agree with my preliminary diagnosis?

Do I need to remove the carb from the sump or just take the float bowl off?

By the recent owner's admission the aircraft was not flown much prior to the sale. Sometimes with auto carbs that sat, the gaskets would dry out, then leak. Is there are risk of this occurring? The delivery flight was 3.5 hrs. and I have flown it 2x since then - noticed the leak I described when I got to the hangar to go flying the third time.


For Larry:

Thanks, I am aware of the SB history and have followed many of the nose gear threads on VAF. What I was trying to determine is how to visually inspect to determine what leg is on the plane now, since I know it has been replaced. Perhaps I should just try to get in touch with the original builder.

Thank you all for your quick response to my questions. As you can imagine, I am eager to get back in the air.
 
LarryT said:
2. Very light fuel seepage from sender cover on right wing. I haven't determined whether or not the cork gasket or pro-seal was used. Can I repair in the aircraft or is it easier to remove the tank? Is the removal similar to removing a Piper Cherokee tank (which I have done)?

The plane flys really nice. It would be nice not to have these problems but I tried to be realistic and not spend every last dime on the purchase so I would have room for contingencies like the above.

Thank you all in advance for the benefit of your experience and good advice.

Larry Tompkins
Click to expand...

Larry, it is possible to remove the fuel sender without removing the tank provided the screws cooperate. By all means try removing the sender screws with the tank in place before you go to the trouble of removing the tank (and probably messing up the paint). Once the screws are out you can remove the sender by carefully maneuvering the sender in the narrow space between tank and fuse.

As has been mentioned, it's a good idea to go with allen-head cap screws when you replace the sender.

Enjoy your new plane!
 
I have stopped a fuel leak on my -7 tank w/o removing the tank from the wing.

I didn't used sealed nut places. This was before we knew better.

Drain the tank. Replace the inspection hole screws with socket head cap screws. Daub with proseal and replace. Small seepy leak around the plate can be stopped with a bead of proseal.


On the carb issue.

An aircraft carb is super simple. Looks more like something off a 50's era tractor.

If you have been into a auto carb before it should be a piece of cake.

Yes take it off the intake and start disassembly on a clean table.
 
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