R

RFazio

Well Known Member
I want to pull the panel out of my 6 slider. I'm going with dynon's skyview and a new radio and transponder. My idea is to make the new one screw in and out like the 7. Mine is rivited in. Has anyone installed their panel in a 6 with screws instead of riviting it in? More importantly can I get it out once I remove the rivits? The slider has the roll bar up front and it looks like it might just clear by pulling one side out first. I'm thinking I won't need to replace every rivit with a screw and nut plate, maybe every other one. This way I'll get the thing all setup before I rip apart the plane. I know there is a lot of wiring and plumbing to take care of but that I look forward to.
 
The panel in my -6 installs with screws. I think that's what the plans called out. It shouldn't be daunting to convert your airplane to "stock" configuration, making the panel easier (not easy) to remove.
 
This is my 6A panel, with three sections screwed on to a riveted base frame, that was made from the original panel, and cut out like a skeleton. A 2" angled switch panel was added and nutplated to the bottom. The center (throttle section) is the same 8 degree angle as the main panel.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/2816/dsc00153ared.jpg


L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
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My plans show rivits.

I just checked the plans and it shows 44 or so rivits holding in the panel and that's what we did. How many screws do you have in yours kyle?
 
RFazio said:
I just checked the plans and it shows 44 or so rivits holding in the panel and that's what we did. How many screws do you have in yours kyle?
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I'd estimate that the screws are spaced every 2.5". The screws go through the panel into a piece of ~1" x 1" angle that I relieved and formed into shape. The angle is riveted onto the glareshield.
 
Intrigued by your RV-6 slider question, I referred to my copy of DWG 24 dated 8-24-00 and it shows the standard size instrument panel attached with a total of 19 #8 screws and nutplates. The DWG, included with my 2000 vintage RV-6A kit is labeled RV7,9. In my case, I attached an optional oversize instrument panel (it adds an additional 2.2 inches of height compared to the stock instrument panel) with a total of 11 screws and nutplates. The homegrown cable subassembly is modular in design and I secured it to the lip below the main panel using 3 screws and nutplates. It can be unscrewed and dropped out of the way for servicing if need be. After 5 years of operational service, the instrument panel still seems to be secured just fine given the comparatively heavy gyros that were purchased and installed prior to the availability of Dynon and other glass panel packages.

95q5qx.jpg
 
L.Adamson said:
This is my 6A panel, with three sections screwed on to a riveted base frame, that was made from the original panel, and cut out like a skeleton. A 2" angled switch panel was added and nutplated to the bottom. The center (throttle section) is the same 8 degree angle as the main panel.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/2816/dsc00153ared.jpg


L.Adamson --- RV6A
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This is an excellent path to take. I've reworked the driver's side of the panel in my RV-6 tipper several times and it is now easy to do since I modified the original panel into a "modular" panel. If you look at this photo, you can see the modular section. Changing flight instruments now only involves recutting a 12" x 12" sheet of panel stock.

As Lee suggested, leave the original panel in place but cut away all of it except a supporting skeleton. Add platenuts to the remaining framework so you can overlay a new panel on top of the old panel skeleton. If you divide the new panel into two or three sections, you can easily change equipment later without having to rework the entire panel.
 
Is the panel in a -6 tip-up structural? I've looked at mine a few times now, and it looks to me like the only things holding it on are screws into the vertical supports that are about 1/4 and 3/4 of the way across the panel (two in each), and one at each end that screws into a bracket behind the panel. You can see my panel in this photo.
 
If you make...

...a modular panel, you can just cut out the center of your existing panel and make alum. overlay sections. Just countersink your original mounting screws.

You will loose about 5/8 inch around the periphery, but with a new EFIS there should still be enough real estate.

This picture shows my panel fitting - the overlays are cheap acrylic from HD, enabling the depth and instrument clearances behind the panel to be seen.



Clickable thumbnail

A true "glass panel"...:D
 
Snowflake said:
Is the panel in a -6 tip-up structural? I've looked at mine a few times now, and it looks to me like the only things holding it on are screws into the vertical supports that are about 1/4 and 3/4 of the way across the panel (two in each), and one at each end that screws into a bracket behind the panel. You can see my panel in this photo.
Click to expand...

Tip up panel is not structural, modify as you wish, just make sure the canopy bow will clear.
 
az_gila said:
...a modular panel, you can just cut out the center of your existing panel and make alum. overlay sections. Just countersink your original mounting screws.

You will loose about 5/8 inch around the periphery, but with a new EFIS there should still be enough real estate.

This picture shows my panel fitting - the overlays are cheap acrylic from HD, enabling the depth and instrument clearances behind the panel to be seen.



Clickable thumbnail

A true "glass panel"...:D
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Gil, is that protected button near the center of the panel for the starter? Won't you want to operate it with your left hand (finger)?
 
The little protected...

gasman said:
Gil, is that protected button near the center of the panel for the starter? Won't you want to operate it with your left hand (finger)?
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...button is for electric "Fuel Prime", next to the "Boost Pump" switch location.

The starter is the big rubber covered button on the left. It needs quite a bit of force to activate, so an accidental touch won't set off the starter...:)
 
panels etc

Gil, now you've started something....lots of heavy duty equipment has clear inspection panels, so that the condition of critical components can be viewed during their 'walkaround'
I think I'll look at a few places where I can put clear lexan panels for my preflight.

Back to your brilliant mockup, what a great idea!
.....and I have to echo the recommendation that at least some groupings of instruments be on removable sub-panels,
say, my engine group, wedged above the radio stack, nearly impossible to swap out a bad unit without major surgery performed upside-down-on-your-head ( on a sweltering day of course, or in the rain, when you can't hang your leg over the side!!!...ask me how I know)
 
My panel is...

flyboy1963 said:
.....
.....and I have to echo the recommendation that at least some groupings of instruments be on removable sub-panels,
say, my engine group, wedged above the radio stack, nearly impossible to swap out a bad unit without major surgery performed upside-down-on-your-head ( on a sweltering day of course, or in the rain, when you can't hang your leg over the side!!!...ask me how I know)
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....in three sections. A left side, right side, and a radio stack section.

The left side is large, but still easy to handle - just don't put any cable controls in the removable part.

Some of my switch panels are in the radio stack portion, and they sized like avionics and are mounted on small angles so they can be pulled forward for access.

The top portion if the radio stack is hard to use in the tip up because of the moving structure behind it.

Not an original idea - borrowed from the original Affordable Panels product.
 
I'm currently doing the same job in a 6. After removing everything from the old panel I cut it out leaving a one inch wide circumference riveted in. I overlayed the new panel in 2 sections (split at the radio stack) and secured every 3 inches.
 
I'm not sure what rivets you are referring to as holding the panel in place. I suspect you may be seeing the rivets which attach the angle around the top perimeter of the panel. When you remove the panel, this remains attached and is removed with it (it becomes part of the panel). You should only have screws which attach the panel to the angles on the outboard and to the subpanel extensions. Unless it has some modification to the plans, there is no structure available which you could reasonably put in 44 rivets to hold this in place.
 
Wow....

Flybuddy2 said:
Here's a link to pic of newly installed Skyview in a 6A. The instructions are a bit thin but the install was pretty straightforward and everything is working as advertised. The main part of the job was in removing old panel, avionics and wiring.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/flybuddy/4584384004/
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...really sweet! Great job. Yeah, we've already started 'tweaking' the -10 to suit as well....an HS 34 and a 430W,

Best,
 
pierre smith said:
...really sweet! Great job. Yeah, we've already started 'tweaking' the -10 to suit as well....an HS 34 and a 430W,

Best,
Click to expand...

Concur, Flybuddy, the Skyview system and your entire panel looks great!!

And you go Pierre! You're going to have a multi-source, full up IFR monster! I forget, do you already have the Dynon AP and the AP-74 as well, or do have a TT AP? Can't wait to see that panel up close!!

trib said:
I'm not sure what rivets you are referring to as holding the panel in place.
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My panel was riveted in place to the glareshield and surrounding structure...just the way the builder did it in 1998. The bud I bought the airplane from had done a panel mod, and had cut out the area around the original steam gauges and made some modular overlays over much of the original panel. I took it one step farther, and like others in this thread, cut most of the original panel out, leaving a thin section to mount nutplates in for the final overlays. I didn't want to try to drill out the rivets in the glareshield with the windscreen in place, so just made the best of the existing structure.

I ended up with three sections of panel. One for left of the radio stack, one below that piece for the switches, and one for the right side of the stack (pics below). I figured if I wanted to pull the left subpanel off, I wanted to be able to do it without disturbing all those switches (and their many wires!).

We used acrylic as well to do mock-ups before cutting metal...its a great way to check the fit of the overlays and, as Gil said, to make sure stuff fits back there. Don't have any pics of that step, dern it.

Here's the "OMG, what have I done" pic, with the original panel cuts underway, and some of the nutplates going in...it was pretty rough at this point!

panelframe.jpg


Here's fitting the overlays. Was pretty close after the acrylic mock-ups, but we left a little extra to trim to a nice tight fit in all directions. We used .090 AL for the overlays. I was starting to breathe again at this point...a little! ;)

panelmetal.jpg


I was really pleased with the result. We powdercoated the AL (Apple Platinum Gray, FWIW), and laser etched the lettering, then sprayed the letters black. In the year and a half since we finished this, I've had each panel off a few times for little repairs or little mods, and it sure makes working on things much nicer when you only take off the part you need to work on!!

panelfinal.jpg


Very gratifying project...learned a huge amount, and have had great use of all the equipment! Fun stuff!

Cheers,
Bob
 
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Say, Bob....

...Flybuddy's airplane used to be my/our -6A and had steam originally, the reason for my "Wow" declaration.:)

I have a D-100, 120 and HS34, coupled to an SL-30, 430W and for GPS, a 496 and the 430W and ADI Pilot II. The next upgrade will be the new Gemini series with vertical guidance, later this year. These "tweaks" get expensive, y'know:)

The cotton and peanuts are being planted as we speak and we have some corn to spray, so "Big Mama" will be cranked shortly for her disgusting 47 GPH Jet-A appetite, but she keeps me in toys,

Panel pics later...

Best,
 
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Pierre,

Aha...I mean Wow! :) So that is Sojourner in disguise! I'm a little slow at 2+2 today! :p

Lookin' forward to the pics. Have fun in Big Mama...yet another airplane I'd love to get a ride in! :D Be sure to make enough $$ for the panel upgrades and AVC/OSH, ok! Sending good wishes for the spray season your way!

Cheers,
Bob
 
Here ya go...

....a Lancair panel fitted to the -10 during the build in Big Fork, Montana.
Aerotronics CNC cut the three piece modular panel inserts and re-made the left one when I added the HS34 module.

They also have in-house silk-screening capability and turned out a winner as far as I'm concerned.....really nice.
Dash-10.jpg


The three small knobs on the right are dimmers for the round gauges, the switches and radios, plus front and rear heat control knobs and two 12 volt outlets under the mic jacks. Note the passenger warning on the glovebox with the added "It exceeds them",

Best,
 
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Nice Pierre...really nice. All the bells and whistles, yet simple and sweet! Really looks sharp!

Cheers,
Bob
 
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