[todds]

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I am ready to build my panel on my RV6 project. I had read posts where others had submitted their designs for review and they had good feedback.

I based my electrical system on Bob Knuckolls Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split bus design.

My thinking is run all primary equipment on the main bus, and the backups on the secondary bus and not have a cross-over switch and relay.

The EFIS equipment has input for both power sources and I am selecting the power to the autopilot.

40A Main alternator (BUS A)
Odyssey PC680 on the engine side of the firewall
MFD-1 Horizon HX 6.5"
MFD-2 Horizon HX 8.4"
MFD-3 Horizon HX 6.5"
AHRS-1
AHRS-2
SL30 NAV/COM
GNX330 Transponder
Trutrak ADI
Trutrak Digflight IIVSGV (Switch bus A or bus B)
Everything else except what is on bus B

20A Secondary on the vacuum pad (BUS B)
Odyssey PC680 on the engine side of the firewall
MFD-1 Horizon HX 6.5"
MFD-2 Horizon HX 8.4"
MFD-3 Horizon HX 6.5"
AHRS-1
AHRS-2
Supplies GNC300XL GPS/COM
Garmin 340 Audio Panel
Trutrak Digflight IIVSGV (Switch bus A or bus B)

The 4 breakers MFD-1, MFD-2, AHRS-1 and AHRS-2 are just in case I want to do a power off reset. I would turn off BUS B and pull the breaker. It is unlikely I would need this but I do testing of the EFIS equipment also.

The other 2 breakers I used for the alternator fields are just for over-voltage indicators.

The 3 switches between the 8.4" MFD and the radio stack would normally be set to EFIS for A/P source, A?P power from BUS A, and the TRIM PWR ON. They would only be changed for testing or a problem.

For the attitude redundancy I have 2 AHRS that are cross checked and only a composite is displayed. If they disagree then they split and I use the Trutrak ADI to pick the good AHRS. After that everything is the same as before, just my backup has changed to the A/P and ADI.

For air speed and altitude I have three sources, the 2 AHRS and the EIS, easy to fail one source. I will have a second pitot also.


Todd Stehouwer
RV6

 

[N941WR]

Tod,

It looks good, IMHO. The only thing I see that might be an issue is the spacing of the breakers. They are taller than what I see in your diagram and may interfer with the GRT Horizon and master switches.

I don't see a flap switch so I suspect you are going to have manual flaps. If not, place the switch where your fuel pump switch is and move that switch to the left. That way you can move the flaps w/o taking your hand off the throttle. (Better yet, put the flap switch where you carb heat is and put the carb heat just to the left of the throttle, and move the fuel pump to the left.)

Are you runing auto fuses? If so, you might still wish to have some pullable breakers on the panel for things that you might want to turn off in flight. You have plenty of room for them.

One last nit would be swap the mag an master switches and where is your starter button?
My panel is set up, left to right, split Cessna master, left mag, right mag, starter button. That allows me just to move left to right and start the engine.

 

[todds]

Thanks for the input Bill.

Does look like the breakers will need to be moved.

I like the idea of swapping the master switches and the MAG switches. The Starter switch is the left MAG, it is a three position switch spring loaded for the third position. I can always add the push button switch that I have purchase for that.

I have manual flaps.

For the carb heat I can not remember what side of the throttle it is on my Cessna 120, I may as well make them the same.

I am using auto fuses.

Todd

 

[az_gila]

If you use...

Tod,

It looks good, IMHO. The only thing I see that might be an issue is the spacing of the breakers. They are taller than what I see in your diagram and may interfer with the GRT Horizon and master switches.
.......

...these Klixon circuit breakers - they should fit fine....

For size comparison, the mounting thread is 7/16 inch

 

[N941WR]

Does look like the breakers will need to be moved.

It looks like you have a choice with the breakers.

The Starter switch is the left MAG, it is a three position switch spring loaded for the third position. I can always add the push button switch that I have purchase for that.

That is a cool way to set it up, I have never seen that before. This is your call. When it came time for me to make these decisions I would try to think of what is "standard practice". Your configuration brings up two issues; first, how would a prospective buyer look at this? (This is your plane, so build it like you want it.) Second, if you are flying along on a bumpy day and have a mag issue and need to cycle the thing off, you run the risk of activating the starter. Would engaging the starter on a running engine damage something?

For the carb heat I cannot remember what side of the throttle it is on my Cessna 120, I may as well make them the same.

Typically Cessna puts the flap lever on the right and carb heat to the left. At least that is the way it was for the 150/152/172's I have flown.

One other question, are you going to mount the throttle & mixture in the panel or under it using the bracket provided in the kit?

I could put in a plug for Dayton's Throttle Quadrant but I won't. Just because I have one in my -9 and love it!

Just remember to build the panel you want, and not the one others (including me) want you to build!

 

[SteinAir]

Hey Todd,

Everything looks pretty good...but...I'll make you a heck of a deal on some Advanced Flight EFISes if you want!!

I tried to sell Rob some GRT Screens for his RV-10, but he wouldn't bite?!?!!

Cheers,
Stein.

PS...for those of you who don't know, Todd is the big cheese and overall nice guy that owns GRT Avionics!

 

[todds]

The MAG Starter switch idea is from Bob Knuckolls "The AeroElectric Connection", great source of information for aviation electrical systems.

I had that same thought about the Starter accidentally engaging. The switches are setup such that if the right mag is on the starter will not engage.

The throttle, mixture, and carb heat are mounted to a piece of machined aluminum that is mounted in the panel. I did this so I can remove the panel easily. I did not want to use the center section for the throttle quadrant that was originally used on the RV6.

This plane will be used for testing various avionics interfaces with the GRT EFIS.

I will just swap out the panel each time and minimize down time.

Todd

 

[todds]

Hi Stein,

Maybe for the RV10, I guess I would have to start building it first.

Getting a thumbs up from you makes me feel like I am on the right track.

Thanks

Todd

 

[Ken]

Position Lights?
Pitot Heat?

Ken
RV-6
GRT

 

[todds]

The pitot heat switch is missing. Thanks for pointing that out Bill.

The two switches to the right of the autopilot handle nav lights, strobes, and landing light.

I will cut the panel next week so I have time for more eyes to look it over.

Thanks,

Todd

 

[Ironflight]

It's got my stamp of approval Todd, if you're willing to "put up" with EFIS's that require no tinkering or troubleshooting whatsoever....where's the fun in that for an engineer!?

Nice layout, but I'd spring for a 430....I bet Stein could cut you a deal....

I have all my "A" power feeds on my main bus, "B" on the Essential, and "C" from my Aux battery - my system is considerably simpler than any of Bob's drawings, although based on his concepts (I agree with him on most things, but prefer to stay away from too many relays). Simpler and lower parts count is always better!

Paul

 

[todds]

Thanks for the input Paul.

I do prefer the Garmin 430 too, but we have that in Greg's plane and the Garmin 300XL is the second most popular GPS our customers are using. The 430 will be in my RV10 though.

I did not use any relays either, just sounded like un-needed complications.

Todd

 

[breister]

Lotsa glass there!

One question: Almost everything is switched except the audio panel. What happens to that particular piece of equipment if the buss fails? I know on some that you lose the ability to use your radios...

That is kewl that the GR EFIS's can accept two separate power sources - heck, that ought to be standard these days!

Regards,

Bill

 

[todds]

When the Garmin 340 audio panel loses power it connects the headphones and mic to COM1.

Todd

 

[N941WR]

...
This plane will be used for testing various avionics interfaces with the GRT EFIS.

I will just swap out the panel each time and minimize down time.

Todd

Todd,

Since I've been flying for a year now and just starting to do some mods and doing some Beta testing for one of your competitors, I've often thought it would be cool to design a truly modular panel so I can just pop out the current panel, slide the new one in, and go fly.

If I were in your shoes, I would probably put some small steam gages (AS, altimeter, & maybe a compass) in there that are not part of the quick change panel. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying you have bad products or anything, it is just that you will be testing a lot of "new "stuff" in there and sometimes "new stuff" goes dark. This would take a lot of angst out of test flying and will allow you to complete a flight, if the "new stuff" does go dark.

Just another $.02.