T

TSKI

Member
Looking for help with building fuel tanks for my RV6. Is there anyone who can do this. Thanks Tom
 
what sort of help? advice or hands on? Best advice I can give is to not let it intimidate you and don't scrimp on the pro seal especially at the rear baffle. Keep everything as clean as you can and clean any wayward proseal as quick as you can.
 
There's a guy that specializes in building fuel tanks for RV's. The name of his company is Evans Aviation. He has some other products as well. I bought my pitot tube from him. I haven't had any contact with him for quite a while, but maybe you can look him up. I can check in my shop later for contact info if you can't find him.
 
I've got some docs...

you might like. I sealed my tanks a few years ago using some Word files I made from searching thru old posts. I can email them to you if you like, or just do a search on sealing fuel tanks. Rick Galati has some excellent information in the VAF archives.

Some of the best advice I can pass on is to make sure the area to be riveted/sealed is completely clean. I used MEK and cut up old t-shirts into 4x4" squares. I doused the squares in the MEK and kept wiping the area I was going to work with the MEK. MEK evaporates quickly so I had a glass baby food jar with the MEK poured into it. Wear two-three pairs of gloves so that you have a backup when/if you get the goop on your fingers.

I have some of my 150+ photos on my Picasa photo website: http://picasaweb.google.com/bakerfamilyenator/FuelTanks# I can put more photos on the webpage or forward them to you if you need something more specific.

I put off sealing my tanks too long. When I finally got to them, I found that I didn't mind working with the ProSeal and actually enjoyed it a bit ;)

Hope this helps!
 
Tips that may be of help.

First I cleaned any part I was going to seal with maroon scotchbrite and clean water blown off with compressed air. Get yourself multiple layers of clean vinyl gloves on and later peal the outside layers off as necessary.

If you do not have where the sealant is going, very clean and dry your long term results may suffer.

Put down some of the nice blue masking tape on the tank skins wherever you do not want pro-seal. Do this only on the inside of the skins and keep it at least 3/4" from any of the rib structures.

Seal the ribs and build your desirable fillets, clean excess off with the wooden tongue depressors you got in bulk from the craft store.

Before the sealant starts to get hard peal out the masking tape panels.

I did my tanks in two stages. and only one tank at a time.
I did only one stage each day. (I may be slow but at least I'm sloppy):p

I waited a day or two before I sealed the baffle, that way I could look in at the 90% cured tank skin and rib sealant areas and note where I might need touch-up when I did the baffle portion.

Non of these tips are meant to take place of Van's instructions, they are just suggestions that worked well for me.

I hope this helps.;)
 
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