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Mopar591

Well Known Member
I recently bought a wing kit, the Spars are already built. I can't find the stamped serial numbers on the wing spars, and the center section fittings. I have spoken to vans and the guy with tech said he "thinks" that on the early kits (90s) they were stamped on the spar parts at the inboard end. I have looked and looked and can't find any numbers. I hope that I didn't "waste" the money on this kit.. If worse case is I have to buy new spars at $2,800 for the set that is pre assembled. If I do buy new spars will they work with the remainder of my old kit?

My second problem is the spar has what looks like missed holes. The guy that built them looked like he miss drilled holes. I'm not for sure of this as I haven't looked at the prints yet, but structurally will one missed hole affect the structure of the wing??

Any input y'all can give would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tyler
 
I have Phlogistan Spars, and have never seen any serial numbers on them. They are anodized and match drilled to the main bulk head (F-404 I think). There will be some empty holes where the bolts go through to attach spar to F-404 and also wing ribs. Go look at the drawings and see what you got before you panic.... there will be plenty of time to panic later in the building process. Good luck on the build, it is a long, but rewarding process. I am finishing up now.
 
Tyler, please post photos of the holes you are concerned about, it will help folks to give an accurate recommendation.
 
Thanks for the replies. These spars are green and I see no signs of anodizing, that's what worried me. I did see on top of each peice there was dots from a center punch.. They all have a different number of dots indicating a dif. Number.

Mike- I will post pics as soon as I get to a computer.
 
PICS

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I'd be more concerned about the edge distance on the thick (~1/2x1/2) inboard spacer than about the smaller holes in the web. You say you've already spoken to vans, did you show them these pictures? That one definitely needs an expert look.

The root ends of the spars used to be center-punched with a series of dots to ID order and placement...I'll look in my notes for more details, I remember there being something on it in what passed for a manual back then.
 
I haven't showed them the pics yet. I am waiting for them to open and I'll be calling tech and emailing them over as soon as possible.. I have a bad feeling I'll be investing a lot more money buying new spars.
 
Line the spar with center bulk head if holes line up you are good to go.
The holes near compression members may be for ribs if previous builder pre drilled if not no big deal.
All spars exept very early ones came factory drilled.
 
Jerry- what's your take on the edge distance on the inboard spacer? Also should the miss drilled holes be patche with a piece or aluminum?
 
Mopar591 said:
Also should the miss drilled holes be patche with a piece or aluminum?
Click to expand...
Take a close look at the plans...are those 'miss drilled' holes where the rib flanges get riveted? I don't have my plans in front of me but the open spar flange holes next to each row tells me that's where the rib angles get bolted. A row of open holes on the spar web next to each one is probably for the flanged end of the ribs.
 
Thanks guys for the help.. I am at work and I have to look at the plans on my next day off.. I am in contact with a RV8 builder that has offered to help. I'm gonna give him a call.
 
Mopar591 said:
Thanks guys for the help.. I am at work and I have to look at the plans on my next day off.. I am in contact with a RV8 builder that has offered to help. I'm gonna give him a call.
Click to expand...

The RV8 spar have little in common with the 4, just FYI.
The RV4, 3, 6, have a piece of angle riveted to the front of the rib that get's bolted to the spar. The holes left open in the spar should for these bolts as already mentioned. The holes in the web look like a mistake, but nothing to worry about if they are in my opinion.
 
S/N

IIRC, the S/N is written with a vibrator pencil on the 1/4" part of one of the bars near the inboard mating surface. I do not remember if the writing is on the top of the top bar or on the bottom of the bottom bar.

I hate to make a judgement call, but it looks like the two off center holes in the stiffener bar may not have correct edge distance but that should not matter. IF you are concerned about the edge distance, remove the vertical bars and replace with a wider bar that gives all the holes the correct edge distance. Yes it will be work to do that but cheaper than a new spar.
 
I haven't been able to see any scribed numbers, I do know that they were purchased at the same time, and it is a matching set.. The workmanship is not perfect but I want to make sure that any unnecessary holes don't hurt the structural integrity of the spar.. I mean it does need to support 6gs and the weight of the whole airplane
 
RV-4 spars

The original spar components that came in the kit have the critical holes already match drilled, so its hard to make "bad" mistakes, even when building your own spar. Phlogiston spars are simple standard spar kits that are assembled by their very experienced team, with a few additions such as anodizing. Your spar looks about normal, and I can see the builder tapered the upper and lower spar laminations, as I did. The plans give the option. The thick bar with the 2 questioned holes, are where the fuselage bulkhead attaches on either side. I doubt it will be an issue. Make sure you have the fuselage bulkhead, and just assemble it all on the shop floor to see if everything aligns. The pencil scribe part numbers can be very hard to see, especially if things have been de-burred and primed. The steel splice plates will have to be on the side of the spar and oriented in which they were match drilled at the factory.They are heat treated and fairly resiliant . You will know they are in the correct when the bolts fit through the full stack-up of all the parts. From what I can see, most all the holes look to be fairly clean (no drill chatter) and I suspect you will be fine. The missing rivets are where rib flanges bolt on, and that should all be fine. Hopefully, your inquiry to Vans will be answered favorably.
 
Bill - Thanks for the help. I am going to assemble everything on my next day off to see if it lines up, I might pm you if I have any more questions.
 
The edge distance should be ok that is a compression member the midrilled holes are not a problem.
Regards Jerry
 
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