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Dpellet100

Member
Couple of questions on the tailcone assy (pg 10-02)....unsure how best to perform the "break edge" in Step 2 ...I understand the concept (so that overlapping skins do not flare out when riveted), just not sure how best to execute.....
Also, slightly confused on best best to flute the Fuselage Frames (Step 4)....assume I want them to lie flat on a flat surface, but how/where best to flute to accomplish that???

Movin' on with the -12....hope to see some other builders in Sebring!!!
 
Personally, I would give serious thought to not breaking. I put a break on mine, then went to see Mitch Locke's and found that he chose not to break. I like his better. If I could do the tail cone skins over, I would leave them alone. His laid nice and flat and look better.
 
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Thx all...actually had a great conversation about this with Vans support who recommended just ing fabricating and running a simple plastic block with a 3/8 "skin-sized" cut in it up and down the length of the skin that needs breaking (after establishing correct amount of break).....seems to work real easy
 
Sorry, I was totally unable to understand what Van's said to do. Could you elaborate or show a photo?

Dpellet100 said:
Thx all...actually had a great conversation about this with Vans support who recommended just ing fabricating and running a simple plastic block with a 3/8 "skin-sized" cut in it up and down the length of the skin that needs breaking (after establishing correct amount of break).....seems to work real easy
Click to expand...
 
Both Mitch and Ken from Vans mentioned that they do their "breaking" using a small plastic block (inch or two square at the most) which they fabricate (don't know where they got the plastic block)......by placing a small slit in the block, about 3/8 inch deep, you can then place the blockover the edge of the skin, bend it over slightly, and then run it along the entire edge to place the slight bend, or "break" in the skin.....thats how it was described to me.......
 
IMHO....The best way to do this is to use the Cleaveland tool that looks like a pair of visegrips with rollers. It puts an imperceptible bend on the edge of the skin that gives a tight fit. The block of wood may be free, but, you will end up with a bunch of waves in the skin.

Search this forum or look in my blog for the instructions on how to use the tool. Ensure you practice with some scrap.

See.... http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/2009/01/tailcone-assembly-continues.html
 
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I have the "vice grip" break tool you used Marty and understand it (after reading your blog). It would appear to me that using the plastic block with the groove in it would require far more skill.
 
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