Geico266

Well Known Member
Now that I have to new "less metal" back shell I'm having a tough time visualizing how to crawl into the tunnel without damaging the ribs & bulkheads. I have this fear of putting too much weight on the tail without the engine on and bending something.

Are you laying on your back?
Did you get the neighbor kid to get in there?
How did you protect the metal?
How was your tail supported?

Also, if ferrous metal is a concern around a magnotometer would not rivets be a better choice to attached the brackets to the magnotometer? The plans call out metal screws and nuts. I believe it would be easy to drill them out if replacement is needed.

Any ideas or thoughts greatly appreciated.
 
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Also, if ferrous metal is a concern around a magnetometer would not rivets be a better choice to attached the brackets to the magnetometer? The plans call out metal screws and nuts. I believe it would be easy to drill them out if replacement is needed.

Any ideas or thoughts greatly appreciated.

I think that Dynon has stated that the screws are not a problem mounting the magnetometer. Just to go one better, I typically use brass screws. They are not "magnetic".
 
remote compass

Larry,

How did you install the remote compass that the back-shell attaches to? Its in the same place.
 
BTW

Larry,

By the way, the ELT people told me not to attach the two black ELT wires together....that they should be grounded to the airframe...either separately or together. For what its worth. (Buzzer wire and connector wire)
 
be very careful

I had to get in the tunnel. Don't ask why, but I did. The aft bulkhead is higher than the baggage floor, and has to be protected. I supported the tail cone on a padded saw horse. I then used a 3' pieces of 1 x 4 across the baggage floor at the aft bulkhead.Place a 1 x 12 plank from the baggage area to the rib that the saw horse is on. You can then get in the tunnel without messing things up.
 
Remote compass

I didn't realize you hadn't put it in yet...thought you were just talking about the backshell. Yes I put a board across the the ribs to distribute the weight and did it on my knees. Came out fine.
 
I didn't realize you hadn't put it in yet...thought you were just talking about the backshell. Yes I put a board across the the ribs to distribute the weight and did it on my knees. Came out fine.

You guys are more nimble than I am. ;)

Okay, okay, I'll quit whinning and get after it. :eek:
 
How I have done it

I cut 2 - 5 quarters pieces of lumber from a deck job to lay in the bottom from 'rib to rib'. ( they usually have a slight curvature to them anyway ). I then put a large piece of smooth 3/4" plywood covered with a beach towel on a saw horse under the same area. I then can crowl in feet first and sit on the 2 pieces of wood and work on it. Have not messed it up ( yet ).

John Bender
 
It is much safer and easy if you lay the aircraft on its side on saw horses with the rear window and the rear window side panels still off the aircraft you stand next to the longeron and reach back to do the job. If all the gear are on it may be necessary to support the lower main gear to keep from rolling the fuselage.

Best regards,
Vern
 
I got mine installed without to much trouble,but I waited to secure the wires to the fuselage until I got the new backshell. I had enought wire free to install the back shell standing next to the plane. Then I attached in to the magnometer before I mounted it. It was then just a matter of riveting it in place and securing the wires in place. I had the fuel tank in and the back window in place when I crawled in the do this. It was a tight fit . I had my grand daughter standing by just in case. I layed in the bagage compartment secured with boards like others . Then i could reach to do the install without putting any part of my body or weight in the tail section.



Brad Stiefvater
looking for that 912 to show up
 
Back shell & attachment to magnetometer

I have been back there several times and found no problem. First remove your tie wraps and bring the sub-D closer to you and you can attach the back shell and then, if you're not too big, with your butt on the baggage floor, and feet flat on the rear fuselage bottom, not putting much weight on them, you can sit there comfortably and attach, remove or do anything you want with the magnetometer, including attaching your tie wraps again.

If you're too big get someone smaller to help you with the task.

JT
 
Non Ferrous Female 9 Pin D Subs

Now that the 9 pin D sub shell screws have been identified as interfering with functioning of the magnotometer, I decided to put a magnet to the female D sub shell itself, and found that it is made of ferrous metal as well. Can you buy an aluminum wrapped D sub??? If so, that would eliminate another possible magnetic field disturbance.

Tom
 
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Now that the 9 pin D sub shell screws have been identified as interfering with functioning of the magnotometer, I decided to put a magnet to the female D sub shell itself, and found that it is made of ferrous metal as well. Can you buy an aluminum wrapped D sub??? If so, that would eliminate another possible magnetic field disturbance.

Tom

The connector shells are not your problem. The small amount of ferrous influence from the connectors is easily accommodated by the calibration routine. The mag can handle quite a bit of ferrous material as long as it doesn't move. The mag in my plane is mounted inches from the steel elevator control horns and the tailwheel spring. It calibrated just fine.
 
Magmotomiter Interference

Thanks Sam. It's great to get a response from someone who has "been there and done that".

I'll quit worrying about it.

Tom
 
ES 9 Pin Backshell

On page 31B-21 (as discussed above)- are we being told that the back shells are not included? I've located the 9-pin D-sub female connectors, but not the special backshells. Keep looking? Or do the plans insinuate that they aren't included? Thanks. Just trying to answer this before I break my back going into the tailcone:)
 
After a very thorough search, I decided that it wasn't included in the kit and bought a new one. Then I found it.
 
After a very thorough search, I decided that it wasn't included in the kit and bought a new one. Then I found it.

Yep, I've been there and done that. So I'm still searching. Kinda wondering if it wasn't one of those supplement envelopes Vans sometimes send in the mail? Many times the wife gets the mail and sometimes I don't know what has been received and not taken to my shop. Still looking if anyone else has further investigative clues :)
Thanks for your reply, RGMWA!
 
Yep, I've been there and done that. So I'm still searching. Kinda wondering if it wasn't one of those supplement envelopes Vans sometimes send in the mail? Many times the wife gets the mail and sometimes I don't know what has been received and not taken to my shop. Still looking if anyone else has further investigative clues :)
Thanks for your reply, RGMWA!

Even being what I like to think is highly organized on all my small parts, I never did find the pair of 9-pin backshells I mentoned in the earlier posts. For future reference for anyone who may be searching the same subject, I just located the non-metal 9-pin backshells locally, here in DFW. Bought one from the aviation department at Frys Electronics. A whopping .59-cents.

Also purchased extra Molex branded pins in all sizes. Huge assorted box for $3.99.