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rv6ejguy

Well Known Member
Upon trial assembly of my front tire and tube to the fork assembly, I find that the valve stem hits the fork and seems excessively long. I've read where some people have exchanged for a different wheel to solve the problem. Is it possible to just get a tube with a shorter valve stem?
 
It is pretty stupid isn't it! I think it clears without the cap. I think that whole front wheel assembly doesn't seem right.

How's the plane coming along?
 
Dprestonsr said:
HOW DO U TELL PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY WHICH WHEEL U HAVE??
THANKS,
DOUG
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If you have the one from Van's, you have the wrong one. It is a WHLNW501.25, and I believe that is on the label.

What you want is a WHLNW511.25. Exchange cost for me was $18.62 + S/H.

PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
 
Out of curiosity, why doesn't Vans believe their wheel is wrong?

It would appear to be a no-brainer to me, so it doesn't make sense why Vans doesn't switch to the other model.
 
I bent the stem using a tubing bender. I had already mounted the wheel so I didn't exchange it. I did talk to Van's about it at the Sun N Fun banquet. It was the third time I asked a question on this build and felt that my self esteem was running way to high that night and I needed to be put back in my place so I fielded the question and took me chances. :D

The well thought out and engineered fix that I was given to this question?

Don't put the valve cap on.... :eek:

So in this case...third question was the charm. Leave off the valve cap, boy do I feel dumb!! :p
 
According to Matco, the reason Van's doesn't use the other model of wheel is due to parts commonality with the 2 place planes - the nose wheel on the -10 is the same as the main gear wheel on them. Matco has tried to convince them to switch but Van's isn't interested.

Either will work - if you use the stock wheel, just leave off the cap. If you switch wheels you'll gain a lot more clearance even with the valve stem cap on.

Bob #40105
 
Another thing to consider...

If you choose to use the different wheel so that you can put a valve cap on, you will need to remove the nose wheel fairing to add air. If the cap is not in place, a moderate sized hole (5/8") in the sdie of the wheel pant is more than large enough to get a stem extension engaged to add air.
 
TSwezey said:
It is pretty stupid isn't it! I think it clears without the cap. I think that whole front wheel assembly doesn't seem right.

How's the plane coming along?
Click to expand...

I'll get the wheel exchanged for the right one I think.

About to finish final mid upper skin riveting this week then trial fit wings and do the root fairings. After that, on to the doors- oh boy can't wait!
:rolleyes:

This winter, I'll be tearing down the mighty Subie for an overhaul and some forged pistons, then gear legs.

Then cowlings and fairings :( :( . Off to the paint shop and... well end is finally in sight but lots still to be done. I really hope to fly in late 2008. :)

I did manage to get a small amount of stick time in a -10 recently. Just handles like a bigger, heavier 6A for the most part. Should be a very nice cross country machine.
 
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