Kato's 8

Well Known Member
Can someone tell me if this curve or twisted area in the tip area of rudder will effect flight characteristics noticeably? It's not real easy to see w/o a level on it and laying flat on table. It's all level until you get to tip, then it dips away. Frustrating! Was real careful bending skin but something is out now. Did I bend too much or should I bend some then flip and bend more etc
I want it safe, looking nice, and flying straight as possible but I don't want to be too picky. Otherwise I'll have an ulcer before this plane nears completion.
What do you all think?
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Thanks guys!
 
Can't tell for sure in the pictures, but if that is the bottom of the rudder, then the bend is in the proper direction to enhance right trim.
If that is the top of the rudder, it will cause you to possibly need more of a trim tab.
 
I agree with Mel. For grins, trial fit the fiberglass tip and see if it doesn't go away.
 
I thought the same thing about the fiberglass tip and I'm hopefull that it might help some. The fit is too tight at the moment and needs a little shaving before it will go on. We will see soon enough I guess.

On the bending in the brake, will one side be a little longer than the other after bend if one doesnt flip the piece over and bend a little each time? I tried holding the skin firmly in the brake while bending it so I dont know if that could be cause for this occuring. Or maybe I just put too much bend in it? Just curious now. I know if it bugs me later I can always try building it over.:)
 
Flight control Integration

I've got 18.2 hrs. om my -8A. I sweated any and all imperfections in every flight control - and flaps. Finally decided to quit worrying and wait to see how it flew. She flies like a dream - not because of any great skill on my part, but the fact that all the errors luckily cancelled out.

Did the initial tests without gear fairings r pants. Added main gear fairings and pants and about to install them on nose gear.
 
Same Here

Mine did the exact same thing. Curve in the same direction and looks to be about the same amount as well.
 
I thought the same thing about the fiberglass tip and I'm hopefull that it might help some. The fit is too tight at the moment and needs a little shaving before it will go on. We will see soon enough I guess.

On the bending in the brake, will one side be a little longer than the other after bend if one doesnt flip the piece over and bend a little each time? I tried holding the skin firmly in the brake while bending it so I dont know if that could be cause for this occuring. Or maybe I just put too much bend in it? Just curious now. I know if it bugs me later I can always try building it over.:)

Bill, I bent my rudder just a few weeks ago after also agonizing over every detail. I presume you are referring to the leading edges of the rudder being different lengths when measured from the forward spar after the bend. If so, don't worry about that - mine and those of several other builders turned out the same way. I want to say that this is actually by design from Vans, but I'm not quite sure about that, so I will leave that to speculation.

The reason that the long edge is desireable is that when you roll the leading edges, one of them has to overlap the other to line up the holes for pop riveting the leading edge together, so having one edge slightly longer than the other is a plus IMHO. My leading edges were about 1/4 inch longer on one side after bending, and so that edge will be the outside edge that will overlap the other shorter edge. Everything else seems to be square and true - or "triangular" would be a better description I guess:D
 
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I just got done building the rudder for the second time for that reason(only ALOT worse). I had the problem on both ends and a noticeable bow in the trailing edge. Since the skin is pre-punched for the upper and lower ribs, the bend has to be exactly in the middle. If not, it puts more tension on one side than the other and causes the curve in the picture. The second time around, I made a partial bend and then made a tighter bend at the trailing edge with the ribs clecoed in place to help locate the middle of the bend. This worked well but there was still a very slight curve similar to the picture above. As long as your trailing edge is reaonablebly straight, I think you are OK. An e-mail I received from Van's indicated a maximum bow of .10 inches for the trailing edge from top to bottom.
 
Thanks guys! I'm sorry others have had similar problems with this but I'm also happy that I'm not the only one. I agree with what you all think caused this to happen. I also wonder why a better emphasis for setting up the brake and then the bend pprocess isnt in the plans or hints pages. I don't have anyone nearby that I can ask so I just do the best I can from what I read. I think I could do it better next time but I'm not 100% sure of it. So I believe it will stay as is. If it flys funky I'll redo it then. Building on.