R

redwoodcstrvr

Member
I'm trying to determine the best way to bevel the counter balance skin for the smooth transition that the drawing mentions between the cb skin (R-913) and the rudder skins (R-901 L&R). What tool should be used and how far the bevel should extend? To me the drawing is not very clear. Thanks!
 
I just feathered out the edge on my grinder scotchbrite wheel. It's a cosmetic issue, not a structural one. Make it look how you want it to look.
 
It is also worth considering using an edge roller or otherwise slightly bending the skin so that it hugs the underlying skin closely.

greg
 
Yeah, I didn't do it either at the time and wish I had....:rolleyes:

I guess that's the beauty of this forum - always something new to learn and/or pass on.

greg
 
I decided to file first, then clean it up on the scotchbrite wheel. Worked fine. Great idea to role the edges. Thanks for everyones input.
 
Older thread, but I'm at this point. Very good point about edge rolling the counterbalance skin. Question is, since it overlaps at the back and bottom sides, did anyone else do this, and if so, how far did you edge roll the bottom edge?

Also, since the feathering of the edges is cosmetic, why do it at all? I doubt anyone is going to walk up to the finished product and tell me I should have feathered the edges on my rudder skins, right?

Not sure if anyone has anything to add here, but thought I'd ask. Thanks.
 
Stalldog said:
Also, since the feathering of the edges is cosmetic, why do it at all? I doubt anyone is going to walk up to the finished product and tell me I should have feathered the edges on my rudder skins, right?
Click to expand...

Don't bet on it :D
 
my solution

I used a file on the edge and it looks pretty good. My problem is the big dent I put in the skin when the rivet gun slipped off the rivet. Now I will be using West Systems to fix it and make it look like a composite rudder!

I saw several 6,7,and 9's in Denver that had filled the joint between the fiberglass and aluminum on the VS and HS. It looked real nice and I think that is what I am going to do. It won't work on the rudder bottom, but the rest should never come off, so it shouldn't be a problem. With a piece of glass tape over the joint, there shouldn't be a cracking problem. I have done it many times on boats. If it does, it is the perfect place for a little racing stripe!

It should give me the standard 10 knots increase in speed too.
 
Just curious, rockwood, any concern over adding too much weight to the rudder when you build up with fiberglass? Seems I read something before about this being an issue to watch out for, but maybe not.
 
airguy said:
I just feathered out the edge on my grinder scotchbrite wheel. It's a cosmetic issue, not a structural one. Make it look how you want it to look.
Click to expand...

Greg Arehart said:
It is also worth considering using an edge roller or otherwise slightly bending the skin so that it hugs the underlying skin closely.

greg
Click to expand...

rockwoodrv9 said:
I used a file on the edge and it looks pretty good.
Click to expand...

Hi,

Any one of you guys or anyone else have a picture of this ???

Thanks
 
Is this right?

This is on my -8 elevator, but the principle is the same. Trying to make sure I have the right idea. Used a vixen file, then 1 inch scotch brite wheel on an angle grinder. Sort of like sharpening a knife blade, only thinned and not sharpened.
34gpli9.jpg
 
I used a sanding block with coarse paper to bevel the aft and lower edges so that they don't bulge the skin.
DSCN3169.JPG
 
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