[RVG8tor]

I could not find a post on this so I thought I would ask since Van's is closed. The long bolt with the slotted end seems to have a threaded shank that is too short. The castle nut bottoms out before the hole is lined up to allow a cotter pin to be installed. The bolt is an AN24-31 and the plans call for an AN310-4 castle nut. Has anyone run into this, is there a short castle nut that should be used for this purpose. I can over tighten the nut enough to get a cotter pin started but it will not go all the way through. There is room left on the grip of the bolt to add some threads. That is the only idea I have at this point. Both bolts are the same, it is like the hole is drilled too far from the end of the bolt. It sure seems that a drilled bolt should not have the but bottom out before revealing the cotter pin hole. I am thinking I have read about this someplace but my searches for "pedal bolt fit" and various versions of that do not seem to find any posts. Thanks for the help.

 

[JSERB]

No response?

Don't feel bad, I posted the day prior to you about the two floor crossmembers I screwed up and got no response either! Fortunetly, I could move onto the landing gear boxes.

Hope Van's resolved your problems!

Justin
RV-8 Wings/Tail 90%
Working on the fuselage

 

[RV8R999]

Nemo - Do you have the inflight or ground adjustable pedals? I'm not picturing the problem very well.

BTW- I wouldn't add any threads to the bolt. Your tap and die set will add the threads but they are the quality nor the method the threads were cut originally. Can you take a picture?

regards,

Spank

 

[RVG8tor]

Called Van's

I called Van's and talked to Ken, he was stumped at my problem as he had never heard of it. For clarification there is a bolt with a slotted rounded head called an AN24-31 which is the long bolt that is a pivot point on the inside of the brake pedal. If you take this bolt with nothing and run a AN310-3 castle nut onto it, you will find that the nut bottoms before enough of the hole is open enough to take a cotter pin. You can get a pin is partially but it would require some force to get it all the way through.

While waiting for Ken to email be back, I thought I might try some other AN310 castle nut thinking there might be some variation in the dimensions. Sure enough I found two that worked so all is well, I guess that is why Van's does not supply the low profile AN320 nuts.

Ken had did not think they had the AN320 nuts, but in his email back to me he learned that Van's does carry them for situations like this. I don't plan to bother since I was able to make the AN310 nut work. I had to find the right nut but I had bought a batch of castle nuts, I use them for temporary installations since they are easier to get on and off.

Cheers

 

[jaypee]

I had the same problem

Cut about a quarter turn of thread in it to get the cotter pin through. Had to use HF soft jaws in the vise to hold the thing. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do about the hinge bushing misalignment with the release pin on the slide bar.

Jerald King
-8 Tucson

 

[az_gila]

That makes logical sense...

The AN24 is a "Clevis Bolt" and has a much shallower head, and therefore weaker in tension, than a regular AN3 type bolt.

This head makes it only suitable for shear applications, so the fact that the threads are designed for a shear type castle nut (AN320) makes design sense.

It should not really be a surprise, the AN310 is the wrong part call out to mate with a AN24.

I called Van's and talked to Ken, he was stumped at my problem as he had never heard of it. For clarification there is a bolt with a slotted rounded head called an AN24-31 which is the long bolt that is a pivot point on the inside of the brake pedal. If you take this bolt with nothing and run a AN310-3 castle nut onto it, you will find that the nut bottoms before enough of the hole is open enough to take a cotter pin. You can get a pin is partially but it would require some force to get it all the way through.

While waiting for Ken to email be back, I thought I might try some other AN310 castle nut thinking there might be some variation in the dimensions. Sure enough I found two that worked so all is well, I guess that is why Van's does not supply the low profile AN320 nuts.

Ken had did not think they had the AN320 nuts, but in his email back to me he learned that Van's does carry them for situations like this. I don't plan to bother since I was able to make the AN310 nut work. I had to find the right nut but I had bought a batch of castle nuts, I use them for temporary installations since they are easier to get on and off.

Cheers

UPDATED TO CORRECT TYPO REFERENCED IN NEXT POSTING - THANKS MIKE....

 

[RVG8tor]

Backward

Gil,

I think you have it backward. Van's call out the AN310 nut for this clevis bolt, however the AN320 nut is better suited with its low profile. As I proved and I guess many others have you can make the AN310 nut work.

The AN24 is a "Clevis Bolt" and has a much shallower head, and therefore weaker in tension, than a regular AN3 type bolt.

This head makes it only suitable for shear applications, so the fact that the threads are designed for a shear type castle nut (AN310) makes design sense.

It should not really be a surprise, the AN320 is the wrong part call out to mate with a AN24.

 

[az_gila]

I think it only...

Gil,

I think you have it backward. Van's call out the AN310 nut for this clevis bolt, however the AN320 nut is better suited with its low profile. As I proved and I guess many others have you can make the AN310 nut work.

...works because of manufacturing tolerances in the AN24 - AN310 combination.

One alternate on the spec. allows for no threads at the end of the grip and the other allows for 2 "imperfect" threads.

Sounds like some can make it work and not others based on the manufacturing tolerances of both the bolt and the nut.

http://www.av8design.com/Hardware/AN23 to AN27.pdf

http://www.av8design.com/Hardware/AN310.pdf

The AN320 nut is still the best (correct) part.

Thanks for correcting my AN310/AN320 typo...