I made this gust lock. I used #10-32 bolts. I made one for each side. Does anyone see a problem that i might be missing?
Coryb, in the spirit of being honest, I trust this is your proof of concept? It will work !
yes, just making sure it could be this simple.
It can be, but the wind and rudder have a huge amount of mechanical advantage over that type lock. I prefer one that uses the counterbalance.
I suggest the lever arm from the rudder will break something, either the lock or the horn.
Here is a dirt simple way to lock the rudder, and you get practice tying your Bowline knots.
Carl
I like it. I assume it is tied off to the elevator counterbalance locks?
I made this gust lock. I used #10-32 bolts. I made one for each side. Does anyone see a problem that i might be missing?
Honestly, Cory, I have seen several of this type fail and results in considerable damage at OSH . . . twice. I have a counterweight type, but it is a tail dragger. The rope-to-the-TE is structurally sound for the high winds when it really counts.
What you have is fine for fuel/coffee stop in light winds, not for 25kt gusty, sorry.
I made this gust lock. I used #10-32 bolts. I made one for each side. Does anyone see a problem that i might be missing?
I use this...never had a problem, even in some really nasty winds tied down in Vegas a time or two.
https://antisplataero.com/products/ultimate-gust-lock
It's a bit fiddly to get installed, but works very well (and looks better than any of the cobbled-together similar-style gust locks I've seen out there...passengers notice things that look "homemade" vs. high-quality production).
I see most of these post relate to "A" models since the rudders are pretty much free flopping due to lack of T/W cables and springs. I have a -4 that I built, and what I noticed about CoryB's and Skid's pictures have me wondering..The stops on the longerons appear to me to be "up-side-down" and when they strike the rudder bell crank arm, they are hitting the vertical leg at the angled cut, rather than the horizontal leg which transmits impact much better. On my -4, the stop aligns with the horizontal flange right next to the cable clevis. I can see how the as pictured stops would inflict damage in strong gusts. Is this the way all "A" models have their stops? I don't have a picture of mine on hand.
I don't like anything that secures the rudder anywhere close to the hinge line. A gust of wind will have SO MUCH leverage and IMO possibly damaging the rudder, (and even worse... perhaps in an unnoticeable way). I know that's a stretch but it's my thoughts. I do like Carls solution in post 7. Much better and and eliminates my entire argument against anything close to the hinge line.
I posted a video regarding my control locks recently. If you go to 3:45 you'll see my rudder lock. Away from the hinge line so any winds loses a lot of leverage. I still like Carls.... I'm considering making a change.
I don't like anything that secures the rudder anywhere close to the hinge line. A gust of wind will have SO MUCH leverage and IMO possibly damaging the rudder, (and even worse... perhaps in an unnoticeable way). I know that's a stretch but it's my thoughts. I do like Carls solution in post 7. Much better and and eliminates my entire argument against anything close to the hinge line.
I posted a video regarding my control locks recently. If you go to 3:45 you'll see my rudder lock. Away from the hinge line so any winds loses a lot of leverage. I still like Carls.... I'm considering making a change.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y-mKkf_WdM
No one has mentioned the Bogert Bogie bar.
Any real world experiences?
In response to Dean Pichon of post 24. I'm going to just think out loud here. You compare the inflight loads on the rudder as to a gusty wind side load on the rudder... these are completely different. The airflow is not from the side of the rudder during flight. Also In flight the tail of the aircraft actually moves in response to rudder inputs. Now tied outside on a ramp the gusty winds, (perhaps coming at the rudder from 90 degrees), pushing on all that surface area and gust locks only a couple inchs from the hinge line/pivot point of the rudder. Think of a load, the fulcrum and the lever. In this case the rudder is the lever with the force supplied by the wind gust. The greater the distance from the fulcrum the greater that force exerted on the forward end of the rudder. Seems to me there's no way around it, that wind gust (potentially) has lots of leverage--->damage to rudder.
...
In response to Dean Pichon of post 24. I'm going to just think out loud here. You compare the inflight loads on the rudder as to a gusty wind side load on the rudder... these are completely different.
I disagree. Full rudder deflection during a slip on final is 35* of deflection into a 100 MPH wind. Not the same as a wind 90* to the tail surface, but surface winds are rarely 100 MPH either.
SNIP
Someone mentioned possible damage to the trailing edge of the rudder with Carls method. That's a point I didn't consider. However I feel it's still a better approach than anything close to the hinge line.