[tx_jayhawk]

I've seen very few references to this in the search forum, and I'm looking for some help. I bought the system 6 whelan lighting package, and I'm trying to determine the following:

* About how much strobe wire is needed from the p/s to the rudder strobe and from the p/s to the wingtip strobe (assuming power supply is under baggage compartmnet floor)? I am guessing that I would be safe to cut it into three pieces of 20 ft sections (I don't have my fuse to verify).

* Have others cut out a slot in the front of the bottom rudder cap to pass the wires through? I know Walter T. did, and it looks like Dan ran his over the top of the existing rod end opening. I don't want to do that, as it looks like it would rub on my installlation. Is there a problem with just cutting a large hole with grommet?

* Maybe I'm missing it in my installation instructions, but I don't seem to see what the rear position light is rated at (watts). I am assuming 16 guage wire would be more than sufficient for the postion light (not strobe).

THanks,
Scott

 

[vlittle]

rudder bottom wiring

Scott: The Whelen strobe package draws 2.9 amps (measured) to run all three position lights. If you use 1 amp continuous for each lamp, you can obviously get by with lighter wiring than 16 Gauge.

As for rudder routing, I cut a keyhole slot starting in the bottom of the rudder fairing, wrapping to the leading edge of the fairing. The fat part of the keyhole is on the leading edge.

The keyhole shape allows me to easily mount the rudder and feed through the wires and connectors. It also provides a drain hole at the bottom of the rudder.

I filed a hole right at the bottom of the fuse where the the tie-down bracket ends on one side to pass the wires through the fuse. I glued in some poly tubing for a bushing and passed the wires through.

I protected the wires with sleeving where they pass into the rudder. There are connectors at the end to allow the rudder to be removed. The strobe/position combo lamp is unscrewed and the connectors disconnected.

I used 4-40 blind nuts from my R/C collection and epoxied them into place to mount the lamp assembly.

I'm sorry I don't have photos , but my airplane is at the paint shop

Vern Little, RV-9A

 

[rv8ch]

Rudder bottom

Here's how I did it:

http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20050902213147833

 

[RV7ator]

Location, Location, Location

Scott,

Since the rudder cap is close to the VS spar when mounted, where you cut access in the cap is driven by where you choose to bring the wires through the spar. Also, a slot is necessary, not a hole, since you must provide for rudder motion relative to the VS without flexing the cable. There isn't enough room for a service loop between spar and cap. Provide sufficient cable length to allow the connector to be drawn aft out of the light hole, and also make rudder mounting easier. The excess can be stuffed into the cap, or pulled back into the fuse, for storage.

I counsel against cutting conductors until you have all the pieces assembled, or at least available to measure. There's plenty of strobe cable in the installation kit, provided you don't waste it with too much dedicated to individual runs. 20ga is adequate for the position lights.

John Siebold

 

[sf3543]

I will drill a wire hole in the front part of the rudder fairing and put a rubber grommet in it. I don't think you need a large slot for the wire to move in. Wire bends. A large slot lets too many things in, like bugs, etc. Same with the exit point from the fuselage. Leave some slack in the wire for bending and you'll be ok.

 

[rv8ch]

Rudder fairing hole

I will drill a wire hole in the front part of the rudder fairing and put a rubber grommet in it. I don't think you need a large slot for the wire to move in. Wire bends. A large slot lets too many things in, like bugs, etc. Same with the exit point from the fuselage. Leave some slack in the wire for bending and you'll be ok.

I thought exactly the same thing. Unfortunately, my theory got whacked upside the head with reality. The two holes are too close together, and I needed to turn it into a slot to make it work.

 

[sf3543]

If you don't put the holes in line, it should work ok. Have the wire exit the fuse a couple of inches higher than where it enters the rudder fairing.

 

[DEKE]

For Sure You Want A Slot. A Slot That Is Large Enough To Get The Strobe Light Connector Through Just In The Event You Have To Remove The Rudder At Some Later Date.