J

JohnF

Well Known Member
I will likely do my first engine start in a few days. I was checking the plugs today to verify the gap....Rotax gives that as 0.028 to 0.032. The engine was run at the factory - you could tell from some deposits on the plug tips, but what surprises me is that the gap on all the plugs was WAY less than 0.025, probably closer to 0.020 (I didn't have a wire gauge that small at hand.)

Does Rotax know something we don't?
 
Rotax came out with a revised Line Maint. Manual 10/2009 which gives the gap as 0.023 to 0.027. The old manual gave the gaps as you stated. Be sure to torque to 20 Nm and use heat conduction compound sparingly and not on the first three threads.
 
Plug gap

Thank you, Mr. Horn...that solves the 'mystery' so I will regap them to 0.025 and dab a bit of heat sink on them...thanks again for the info.
 
Engine install supplies

Fiberglass resin is needed to bond the cooling duct to the lower half of the cowl.
A couple of tubes of high temperature RTV to make a gasket for the heater door and to fill the exhaust springs.
Non-copper anti-seize for the exhaust pipe to muffle junction.
Extra washers and cotter pins will come in handy for the engine mounting bolts.
Joe
 
If you want to follow Rotax instructions you will put it on every time. I do because the Rotax manual says to and with my LSRM-A license that is the only advice I can give. A tube of this stuff is about $25 -$30 but lasts forever. It's quick and easy. I have no experience or information about the consequence of not using it.

Also, don't confuse this with anti-sieze, it's not the same.
 
Heat conducting paste

You can get small tubes of the stuff at Radio Shack...its used in electronics to transfer heat from transistors (etc) to heat sink devices...one small tube should do the plugs 2 or three times...run around $5 as I vaguely recall.
 
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