agirard7a

Well Known Member
Hello, I bought this engine mount at Harbour freight. It really works great and my AP loved the idea of being able to rotate the engine to get oil on the cam.
It's also great for working on the bottom of the engine!

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Option

Al,
That's one way to do it. If you don't have an engine mount available the auto engine stand can be used with short (12") pieces of steel pipe as spacers, with an angle slice at the engine end and a piece of all thread rod bent to match. Then you can cinch it up at both ends.
I stored an O-360 like this for 2 years and it was spotless inside when removed. Rotated every few months with as much oil in it as possible. Always kept 4 dryer plugs on the top.
Hope this is helpful to someone....

Ahaaaa! See picture in next post, same thing.
 
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Here is the other way to use the engine stand and still rotate the engine when you want to.

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Question about rotating the engine

Being new to aircraft engines and really engines in general, what is the procedure? I sure want to do the best possible job of protecting it from corrosion.
1. Can you just mount the engine as shown in these great photos, and simply rotate, or do you need to worry about oil comming out?
2. Should you rotate the crankshaft on occasion?
3. Should I use any kind of special preservative crankcase oil?
My overhauled O-360 is about to be shipped to me, and the Harbor Freight engine stand and hoist is in my truck; o-boy!
Thanks,
Bob
 
Being new to aircraft engines and really engines in general, what is the procedure? I sure want to do the best possible job of protecting it from corrosion.
1. Can you just mount the engine as shown in these great photos, and simply rotate, or do you need to worry about oil comming out?
2. Should you rotate the crankshaft on occasion?
3. Should I use any kind of special preservative crankcase oil?
My overhauled O-360 is about to be shipped to me, and the Harbor Freight engine stand and hoist is in my truck; o-boy!
Thanks,
Bob

Preservation oil.....i have preserved many engines in all kinds of diferents environments worldwide and the one that works the best is having one with enough oil on tope of the pistons to allow you to rotate the crackshaft without hydro locking the pistons...you want to make sure you have at least 4 full cranskshaf turns no more that 60 days apart...If you are to store your engine in the garage. make sure you covered with plastic and use silica disecant bags....they do get saturated with moisture depending where you live.......the secret is to keep as much oil everywhere and as little moisture off the engine....Best source is the Lycoming MM Long term Storage Reccomendations here is one affecting most RV's since they use mogas... http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1534.pdf

this is the factory reccomended method for certified engines

http://www.aircbs.gr/pdfsd/Lycoming..._Information/SL_L180A-Engine_Preservation.pdf
 
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Do not turn the crankshaft!

you want to make sure you have at least 4 full crankshaft turns no more that 60 days apart

Lycoming SL L180B states very clearly that a tag should be placed on the propeller stating
"Engine preserved-Do not turn propeller."
If the crankshaft is turned, it wipes the preservative oil off the cylinder walls.
 
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fogging oil

Fogging oil used for outboard motors seems to work great. remove a plug and spray the **** out of it. I removed a jug today to inspect for rust on the cylinder walls. the walls where covered with an oil film from the fogging oil i used months ago. I rotate the engine to get oil on the cam. I also bought some disecant plugs with some backup silica (its cheap). I will remove all the jugs to check for rust. Pulling the heads is fairly easy.