T

Tailpilot

Member
Hello all,

I have searched a lot of post about rolling the leading edge and found Dan's idea with the j bolts great. I did have an extra rudder laying around from a previous screw up. Last night I attempted to roll the leading edge, which turned out ok, but I am still not satisfied. The thing I noticed was that it seemed that the edges may have been over rolled. I have two questions:

1. Do you tape the pipe right on the edge of the skin or more towards the spar
2. How much do you roll? What I mean is how much do you turn the pipe? Is the edge of the skin at 180, 90 or 45 degrees
 
It is difficult rolling these leading edges, but just keep the bar stock against the table as you roll and you'll do fine. Some have even made brackets to hold the pipe down, but once you get the hang of it it's not so bad. Use duct tape to help hold things together as you cleco the surfaces together. There will be some springback as you roll, but if recall, if you roll too far it made things a little tougher to go together. It was a trial and error thing for me.

You'll be surprised. It took me several hours to roll the rudder, but only half the time to roll both elevators, so there is definitely a learning curve. Just be sure to eat your Wheaties before you get started! :D

In the end, remember that these surfaces are for the most part hidden once the tail is assembled.

I'm about to start my tank sealing, so will be able to give you a first hand report to what longranger said! ;)
 
I done mine in sections inbetween the hinge points, made the job a lot easier than trying to roll the whole leading edge at once. I just cut my wood dowel a little shorter than the distance inbetween the hinge points and it gave me room to get on the dowel with channel locks to roll each section. Worked great for me.

Bird
 
Last edited:
I am in the process of rolling the leading edges of the rudder for the -14. The plans call for using a template to make sure that the roll is correct. How close does the actual roll need to be relative to the template? Mine seem to be more of an arc relative to the template. The template would give you a really sharp curve and and two "straight" edges before and after the curve. The template would lead to a the back edge slightly closer to the spar than what I have now.

Question 2: Should the edges be rolled to the point where the rivet holes align? If not how close should they be? At this point, the edges are close to touching when relaxed, but no where near being overlapped.


Thanks
ken
 
I don't have first-hand knowledge but have been told by another builder that you REALLY want the rivet holes as close as possible with very little tension. My buddy ended up with a crack because he had too much tension in the rolled leading edge.
 
Rolling edges

ERushing said:
I don't have first-hand knowledge but have been told by another builder that you REALLY want the rivet holes as close as possible with very little tension. My buddy ended up with a crack because he had too much tension in the rolled leading edge.
Click to expand...

Agreed.
I used J-bolts big enough to allow 3/4" pipe. I rounded the end of the "J" so it can slide up on the skin. Some have been damaged by the edge catching. The J-hooks are bolted to the bench with enough play to allow them to ride up and over the skin.
I used pipe with holes drilled to allow a screwdriver to turn the pipe. A pipe wrench would work too.
Lay down some plastic like an old shower curtain.
Break the edge of the top layer with an edge rolling tool so it lays flat when riveted.
Start with 1/2" pipe. Gorilla tape it the edge to the pipe. Crank that baby about 90 degrees.
Replace with 3/4" pipe. Crank that one as far as the J-hooks allow. You should be really close.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.