Scott Hersha

Scott Hersha

Well Known Member
Getting ready to start my condition inspection, and I’m wondering what others use to lubricate control rod end bearings (if anything). I’ve used LPS 1 before, as well as other lubricants. One of my local RV friends says he doesn’t use anything. What do the experts say? Lots of choices, including nothing.
 
IA I'm working with on this year's condition inspection suggests aerosol white lithium grease. Can see its been lubed after you do it and thin to run in but thickens when dry. I used to use LPS 1 as well and seemed fine too.
 
RVFan671 said:
IA I'm working with on this year's condition inspection suggests aerosol white lithium grease. Can see its been lubed after you do it and thin to run in but thickens when dry. I used to use LPS 1 as well and seemed fine too.
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I tried that but it attracted so much dirt I abandoned the grease after a couple of years, got really gunky. I now use a teflon-based lube that is very thin but slippery.
 
LPS 2 or TriFlow, I lube mine at least 3-4 times a year like when I do an oil change or air up tires.
 
I too used to use LPS 2.. now I use Triflow. I can’t find a use for LPS 1 on anything really.. it’s about the same as WD-40.. it’s just too thin and seems to evaporate.. the Bonanza guys use it on their flap micro switches.. that’s about it..
 
I initially used LPS-1 or -2, but had an IA recommend LPS-3 for REBs and piano hinges. His feeling was that it was a (relatively) thin liquid when applied, but formed a wax-like material as the solvents flashed. The thought was that in the "dried" form, it wouldn't attract dust. I don't know if that's accurate or not and would be interested in the thoughts of others--especially if there are data to support conclusions. If -3 is NOT appropriate, Tri-Flow seems like a good choice.
 
For exterior joints, I use LPS-1 with a rag behind it for cleaning the joint, then apply LPS-2.
The LPS-1 under pressure cleans the dirt out well and any left over that didn’t evaporate is compatible with the LPS-2.

For interior joints that do not get exposed to much grime, I just use LPS-2 most of the time but every so often, clean them with the LPS-1.
 
LPS 2 on the interior rod ends, and TriFlow on the exterior ones (so they won't pick up dirt).
 
If the rod end is a true bearing it should not be lubricated. If the rod ends are non bearing types they should be lubed. Really not bearings but close tolerance spherical bushings. There are a few rod end bearings that have grease fittings. The pertinent word being GREASE, not oil or something in an aerosol can. I doubt you will find a rod end with grease fitting on an RV.
Refer to the expanded descriptions in Aircraft Spruce catalog. Fafner REB3N2 is an example of a sealed bearing that should not be lubricated. I doubt you will find a Fafnir bearing on an RV. They are incredibly expensive. A Pitts has something around $2-3k worth of Fafnir bearings.
 
jrs14855 said:
If the rod end is a true bearing it should not be lubricated. If the rod ends are non bearing types they should be lubed. Really not bearings but close tolerance spherical bushings. There are a few rod end bearings that have grease fittings. The pertinent word being GREASE, not oil or something in an aerosol can. I doubt you will find a rod end with grease fitting on an RV.
Refer to the expanded descriptions in Aircraft Spruce catalog. Fafner REB3N2 is an example of a sealed bearing that should not be lubricated. I doubt you will find a Fafnir bearing on an RV. They are incredibly expensive. A Pitts has something around $2-3k worth of Fafnir bearings.
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The rod end bearings on my buddies Diamond DA40 SPECIFICALLY say do NOT lubricate.
 
Rod End is generic, but for the purpose of this discussion, calling it a “bearing” or a spherical bushing, or whatever, I think the OP’s idea isn’t lost.
My Bucker has Rod Ends with Needle Bearings. They require grease, but do not have zerks, as an example.
 
I use LPS2 on all rod ends and pivot points (like when drilled bolts or clevis bolts are used as pivot points such as on the ends of the rudder cables, etc.)
LPS2 is a wet film lubricant so is does a good job of lubricating and protecting from corrosion, but being a wet film lube, some people don't like it because of the possibility of it attracting dirt / grime. I have been using it for decades and haven't seen any negative impact using it on external components, but I lube external ones more than just once per year.

LPS1 is a dry lube lubricant, meaning the liquid portion of the spray evaporates after application. It works ok as a lube for light duty but does not provide as long of a lasting lubrication and it provides minimal corrosion protection, though it is probably a better choice for those worried about attracting dirt.

LPS3 is a corrosion inhibitor. it leaves a slightly waxy protective film. It should not be used as a lubricant.

Link to a quick rundown of the differences and suggested uses of the 3 products.
www.itwprobrands.com

What is the Difference Between LPS 1®, LPS 2®, & LPS 3®

Exactly what is the chemical and performance difference between LPS® products 1, 2 and 3, and how are these used in industry?
www.itwprobrands.com www.itwprobrands.com
 
For those that are concerned with dirt, as I mentioned earlier, LPS-1 does a great job cleaning the “bearing” surface, be it bearing, clevis, bracket whatever. I suppose any light oil or solvent propelled by an aerosol will do the trick but after some research, I was comfortable with LPS-1 being compatible with LPS-2 as some residue of whatever you use will be left behind.
All that said, I do it because it’s cheap and easy, and a clean joint is easier to inspect, like the rudder horn, which gets very dirty.
I suspect Scott is right and in the life of an RV, I would be surprised if anything wore out if lubed regularly regardless of cleaning. Some environments may be worse than others however.
 
Taltruda said:
The rod end bearings on my buddies Diamond DA40 SPECIFICALLY say do NOT lubricate.
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Interesting.

Haven't we been down this path before with "self lubricating' bearings 40-50 years ago?. IIRC, the bearings had a brass alloy lining. While it got rid of the requirement for scheduled/periodic lubrication, the soft linings would wear and make for a sloppy connections eventually requiring replacement. It's a pick your poison type of scenario.

As for the aforementioned, the most common move from the certified OEMs that I was familiar with was to use Tri-Flow on the self-lubricating stuff. Probably why I still use it today though Teflon Resin is a great lube.

Your friend should follow the OEM's advice but he'll probably wind up replacing those REBs because of the soft liner wear at some point. As people like to point out on here, there's no free lunch.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I’m going to pick up some Tri-Flow today. They have it at my local Ace. Some of the choices I have now are shown below. I picked up the WD40 SILICONE at Menards because it sounded interesting. According to the description on the can, the propellant (probably regular WD40) dries off pretty quickly leaving behind a thin amount of silicone for lubrication. Haven’t tried it on anything yet. I use the white lithium grease to lube the hinges on my hangar door - also used it recently (as suggested by someone here) to lube the tracks on my slider canopy.
 

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I use Boeshield. (bolts not included ;-) )

They also make it in liquid form so you can use a needle applicator.

Product Description​


Boeshield T-9 was developed and licensed by global aerospace leader, The Boeing Company, to fill a need for high-performance, long-term metal protection and lubrication. T-9's rust preventative spray uses a unique formulation of solvent carrier and paraffin wax coating engineered to penetrate crevices deeply, displace moisture, dissolve minor corrosion, and leave a clean, waxy coating with lasting durability-without using Teflon, silicone, fluorocarbons, MEK, or acetone. Whether it be automotive, bicycle, industrial, lawn and garden, marine, RV or tools, T-9 continues to be the best option for rust prevention and waterproof lubrication.


From the Manufacturer​


On a seafaring yacht, a dusty ATV, or a shower door, T-9 has you covered. Boeshield T-9 endures muddy bike trails, rain-soaked back roads, and salted highways. It withstands farmer’s fields, offshore oil rigs, and carpenter's workshops. For everyone from firefighters and road crews to cyclists and sailors, Boeshield T-9 is the proven solution. T-9 attacks existing corrosion, loosens rusty parts, and flushes out old lubricants. It is also extremely useful for drying wet parts, electrical motors and circuits, ignitions, and connectors. Apply T-9 and wipe off the excess for immediate use. T-9 dries to a waxy, waterproof finish without leaving a sticky film to attract dirt, dust, or mud. T-9 stays liquid long enough to permeate metal crevices and seep deep inside assembled components to leave a durable protective coating as well as lubricating and protecting-all without dismantling your equipment. Apply T-9 to any metal surface and let it dry. One simple step gives you a thin, penetrating film of durable, waterproof protection and lubrication that endures, months after month or mile after mile. T-9 dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won't wash off in rain, puddles, or mud. You can rinse away sand, dust and grime with water, while leaving the lubricant intact. T-9 will not harm paint, plastic, rubber, fiberglass, or vinyl. It can be used on engines, wiring, and belts. T-9 is nonconductive and will not cause short circuits, so it's also safe to use on electronics. Use solvent or any emulsifying cleaner to easily remove T-9, or simply respray and allow T-9 to dissolve itself before wiping it off.
 
Having raced bicycles for decades, I maintain my own racing equipment. Racing (or distance riding) can involve ANY type of weather, road conditions, dirt and dust. I went through several lubricants and landed on two that do excellent work and do not leave a grimy, dust-attracting residue.
Bioshield T-9 was invented by Boeing (a well-known bicycle manufacturer! :ROFLMAO: ) and has a Mil Spec designation. Does a great job of getting into small spaces (derailleur, for example) without leaving anything behind to attract road dust/dirt/grime. No Teflon.
TriFlow is great as well and leaves behind a Teflon-based lubricant that, again, does not attract road grime.
I use the liquid in the bottle for both (I didn't know the spray was available when I first started using them). I find I have a much greater control over where the lubricant is going and, more importantly, where it is NOT going, ie, where I don't want it. Spray cans, even with the red hose thingie, tend to go places I don't care for them to go. You can pick up the liquid bottle at your local cycling dealer.

LPS-1 is NOT a great lubricant and, if anything, should be used to clean parts before putting something of substance on. LPS-2 is OK but not at the top of my list.

I would NOT use any form of white lithium grease except, perhaps, on the hangar door. That is what I use mine for. It does NOT belong on an airplane. Want proof? Spray some on and come back later. What is all that dust-attracting white crap that is left over?? Grease!
 

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Scott Hersha said:
Getting ready to start my condition inspection, and I’m wondering what others use to lubricate control rod end bearings (if anything). I’ve used LPS 1 before, as well as other lubricants. One of my local RV friends says he doesn’t use anything. What do the experts say? Lots of choices, including nothing.
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Hey Scott,

We've talked about this from time to time, I'm posting just to offer my input to the forum.

Years back I stopped using LPS2 after noticing when an aircraft would come back for a CI, the lubricant was very dry and stiff. Once re-lubed there was a noticeable change in control movement resistance. I began using turbine oil and the dry stiffness in the bearings of all the aircraft was not present at the next CI. Turbine oil is a light low viscous oil that easily wicks into the bearings. Some hardware stores, and most HVAC and industrial supply have turbine oil in a 4 oz bottle with a telescoping tube that is great in tight places especially when applying vertically to the aileron bell crank in the wing. The squeeze bottle makes control to a single drop easy, there is less over lubing due to the pressurized blast of an aerosol.
Currently, I use turbine oil exclusively as a general lubricant. A quart can from the FBO to refill the dispenser will last a single plane owner years.

Additionally, I have applied turbine oil to work surfaces of power equipment, sheet metal breaks, sheet metal shears and noticed the surface corrosion seemed to convert in the same way as when a chemical conversion type coating is applied for corrosion treatment. I never researched whether turbine oil has a corrosion additive but it seems likely.

Cheers.
 
Taltruda said:
The rod end bearings on my buddies Diamond DA40 SPECIFICALLY say do NOT lubricate.
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Hi Tom,

The rod ends on the Diamond DA40 may not have a metal to metal bearing surface. Those with Nylafiber races, for instance, say, "DO NOT LUBRICATE". Don't know if the lubricant would damage the injection molded race, or whether lubricant would carry grit into the nylafiber race and wear it prematurely.

Rod end Screenshot.png


All steel races from the same supplier say, " Lubrication Required: To insure proper function, the rod ends listed below must be lubricated. To insure complete lubrication, before installation, rotate ball bore 90 to installed position, fill housing with high-quality grease. Restore ball bore to installed position, wipe off excess grease and install.
Lubricants may attract dirt and other abrasive contamination. Rod ends must be removed, thoroughly cleaned, inspected, and re-greased whenever contamination of any kind is present."

https://rodendsupply.com/shop/chromoly-steel-nylafiber-matrix-race-rod-ends/

https://rodendsupply.com/shop/high-...O5lRfZtvycMGjVTA50I1uibNfLbXge3RoC22EQAvD_BwE
 
This year I changed my lubricant product and method. I was using Triflow, which seemed to work fine, but I could never prevent drips when applying from an aerosol can. It was just always messy. Then a friend educated me on the fact that CorrosionX is an excellent lubricant, not just an anti-corrosion product. Now I use CorrosionX for lube and apply by using a small paint brush. Just dip the brush in CorrosionX and then coat the bearings by brushing it on. It will penetrate and doesn't create a mess with drips. Here are links to both products on Amazon. From what I have read, CorrosionX is used by US Navy.

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 
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