A

acrofox

I'm New Here
Currently I'm taking the very first baby steps in my project -- I've built the toolbox, I'm practicing riveting with some scrap metal (old computer cases), and I've got HS-609PP just about ready to go.

Now, with that said, I have some questions.

I know somewhere out there, someone has to have explained how to properly use a pneumatic squeezer to set rivets. I set most of the rivets in my toolbox kit with the squeezer, and most of them look fairly good. So far, so good.

Here's the problem-- I oversquoze some of those rivets, and in the end I have no real idea how I'm supposed to have done it better.

How do I properly set the gap in the squeezer before I squeeze a rivet?

I understand how to actually manipulate the gap, but what I don't understand is how to figure out what the gap should be before just 'squeezing a rivet and seeing', which seems very wrong. The instructions that came with the squeezer talked about setting the gap to the total length of the squozen rivet, or something to that effect ... but I'm really not sure what that would be exactly.

So, that's the squeezer. The rivet gun I've been having less consistent results with. Some unevenness on the shop head if I screw up the bucking, obviously -- I'm sure that'll go away with practice.

The problem I'm having is that I have the swivel adapter, and when I try to set a rivet, the set tends to move a fair bit. I sometimes end up with a rivet that's not actually in its dimple but is protruding out a little bit, with a slightly deformed factory head.

I assume that too will go away with practice, but it's not going away quickly. I don't (And won't!) have a helper for riveting, so I was wondering if there was anything in particular that I'm specifically doing wrong... if this symptom sounds familiar.

Thanks in advance fellas! :>

-Fox
 
I use a vernier caliper and have set both "rivet sets" (470 and 426 Flush) at the fully open for all the rivet sizes. For example a 470 4-5 is about 17.9mm or about 11/16ths using the universal set. The flush rivet set is thinner than the universal rivet set therefore the two different measurements. I have a whiteboard in my shed that has the different measurements for each rivet and set. I've written them large enough so my failing eyesight can read them from a distance. All the data was from trial and error, like you I just adjusted the distance between sets until the rivet set gauge fitted neatly over the shop head. The reason I have used the fully open method is I have an adjustable plunger on the squeezer. Additionally, the squeezer is not connected to the airline whilst SAFELY setting the gap. Hope this garbled tome helps.;)
 
scrap

Use some equivalent thickness scrap pieces to set the squeezer, it flexes some so measuring will not always be accurate. Especially with -4 rivets. Just add or remove washers until you get the right sized shop head. Worked for me. Hope this helps. Oh and once you have done this, write down the number of washers for each thickness of skins that you did, they are the same throughout the build with just a few exceptions. If you can not get scraps for the same thickness, just start out with no washers and sneak up on it.

bird
 
For the squeezer, start big. A little experience will allow you to get close and then you can adjust the set to where you want it. By the way, it is very worth getting an adjustable set rather than relying on washers. Not only is it easier to make adjustments, but the washers tend to deform over time.

For the gun riveting, it sounds like you may be putting more pressure on the bucking bar than you need to. The goal with the bucking bar is to let it bounce on the rivet, forming the shop head. If you are actually pushing the bucking bar into the rivet, you can force the manufactured head away from the work.
 
Personally, I will squeeze (with nothing in between!) and hold the rivet up next to the gap ... adjust it to a length just shy of the rivet. Install the rivet in the project, squeeze, check with a gauge. Step down a touch, re-set, check with a gauge, and repeat until you hit the proper size.

Doesn't take terribly long. After a few set rivets, I'll double check with the gauge again.

acrofox said:
The problem I'm having is that I have the swivel adapter, and when I try to set a rivet, the set tends to move a fair bit. I sometimes end up with a rivet that's not actually in its dimple but is protruding out a little bit, with a slightly deformed factory head.
Click to expand...

I found that "less is better". What I mean by that is less pressure with the bucking bar. It sounds like you are pressing too much on the shop head with the bucking bar. Let the weight of the bar do the work, and firmly press the rivet gun against the surface.

My $0.01 due to the economy....
 
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Thanks for all the responses, fellas. I set the rivets in VA-146 last night with the squeezer, and it seemed to go well. I started a little wide and stepped it down until I got about the right size shop head, so it sounds like I pretty much did what's being suggested.

I'll put some time in on bucking soon and see what happens -- I didn't think I was pushing too hard against it, but I may need to recalibrate 'too hard'. :>

Thanks again!

-Fox
 
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