A

alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
For those who riveted their plastic NACA vents to the fuse skin, what size rivet did you use? I would like to use MK319's left over from the canopy but not sure if they have sufficiently long grip. Normally I would just test this myself, but I only have the exact number I need... I can't afford to waste one on a test! Should I give them a go or just use the larger CS-4's?

(Yes, I know I could probably get by with just proseal and no rivets at all... but I'm past that stage.)

Thanks.
 
About 15 years ago, I attached my NACA vents with proseal. My RV-6 has now been flying 10 years as of September and I have over 2,074 hobbs hours on it. No problems with the vents. Cannot see even a crack. They look just like they are part of the airplane.
 
you can always make a flange of .016 alum. around the vent for the rivets to pull/seat against. But I would still proseal it in any event.
 
I made two small half moon doublers out of scrap aluminum and then a thin layer of proseal and used normal flush rivets but soft set. No problems with distorting or cracking the vent and gave a very nice clamping force.
 
RV6_flyer said:
About 15 years ago, I attached my NACA vents with proseal. My RV-6 has now been flying 10 years as of September and I have over 2,074 hobbs hours on it. No problems with the vents. Cannot see even a crack. They look just like they are part of the airplane.
Click to expand...

How did you clamp it 'til cured. Or did you?
 
This thread is a great example of thread drift... :eek:

Back to the original, and only, question... can anyone tell me if MK-319's have sufficient reach to get through the skin, through the vent, and through an .019 backing strip?

I'm trying to get this done tonight, hence my persistance.
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
This thread is a great example of thread drift... :eek:

Back to the original, and only, question... can anyone tell me if MK-319's have sufficient reach to get through the skin, through the vent, and through an .019 backing strip?

I'm trying to get this done tonight, hence my persistance.
Click to expand...
The best way to know for sure is to make up a simple stackup simulating the total material thickness and set a MK-319 through it.
 
Whats wrong

with standard #3 rivets...Just cut some little scraps of alu and drill #40 holes to make backing washers and then drive them with the rivet gun just enough to hold 'em.

Worked fine for me...Goop optional...I used some paintable duct sealant.

Frank
 
Rick6a said:
The best way to know for sure is to make up a simple stackup simulating the total material thickness and set a MK-319 through it.
Click to expand...
Yes, thanks Rick. The only problem is that I only have the exact number I need and can't afford to waste one. It looks like bucking some AN3's with low pressure, per Frank's advice, will do the job.
 
robertahegy said:
You guys are a bunch of whoosies. :D I put mine on with AN 3 rivets.

Roberta
Click to expand...

Same here....3/32 rivets. Countersunk. Twelve of them. And used a continuous bearing plate on the inside. Also used a polyurethane sealant as a compression gasket.

I'm no whoosie (whatever that is..... I'm pretty sure I'm not one). That vent is NEVER coming off. Guaranteed. They might find me speared into the side of a mountain but I reckon that NACA vent will still be attached .:)

Click on pix to enlarge





 
Last edited:
an42x3 rivets dimpled the skin, no backing on the plastic, used a gun and buck bar. Put black sili between the vent and skin. first I put the vent on the outside, traced the outline of the vent then I put marks with a scripto for my holes then I drilled the holes, then I put the vent on the inside and matched drilled, easy.
 
At the risk of potential thread creep, you might consider waiting as long as possible to put the vent ducts in. Depending on what kind of stuff you have forward of the panel, I've found that having just that little bit of extra visability through those holes is a good thing for any work on lower firewall/ or avionics.

Jim
 
To answer the original question...I did use the MK319s and they do barely seemn to have enough length. I did also make a thin .016 or .020 backing strip so that they do not pull out. I put a bead of proseal as well.


That all being said...honestly, I think if I were to do it again I would use CS4s. I always seem to sleep better when I "think" I have more margin (regardless if it is needed or not).

Scott
7A
Getting Close
 
Thanks for the help. Finally got answers about what rivets work. It looks like AN3's will work just fine if you have room to buck them. Two people (one by private message) have confirmed that MK319s will work (at least minimally), and it sounds like CS4's will provide absolute peace of mind. I ended up not having time to get to it last night, but should this evening. At least I took the two year old proseal out of the fridge to let it start warming up!
Thanks again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.